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Thread: ABS Teves II problems?

  1. #1
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    ABS Teves II problems?

    I was thinking of driving to shop and get the exhaust bolted up and welded on Saturday. But I though there was a Vacuum line that went on the Teves II system but that was incorrect, So I dont think the pump is filling up the canister I have the ABS light on and I noticed that it does not go out and my pedal is stiff. I read up last night on how the system works and still need some clarification. And trouble shooting ideas. The car is loud when i start it so I cannot tell if the pump works when I get it to start, But It does not run when I put the ignition on the ON position I get a click on the right side of the car then a click near the pump, which takes a second or two then clicks again. But no continious pump noise. All I did was change the steering column and put in a clutch pedeal.


    So help and guidance would be great. And yes I searched.
    Last edited by ricardoa1; 04-08-2010 at 03:24 PM.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by ricardoa1 View Post
    The car is loud when i start it so I cannot tell if the pump works when I get it to start, But It does not run when I put the ignition on the ON position I get a click on the right side of the car then a click near the pump, which takes a second or two then clicks again. But on continious pump noise.
    The pump should run when the key is in the ON position (well, at least mine does), the car doesn't need to be running.

    When I had a hard pedal, it ended up being the ABS relay.
    Kurt K (e-mail)
    SCCoA Member #: 443
    '92 SC AOD -- 11.521s @ 116.748mph, 2.0 AR power
    . . . . . . . . . -- 13.547s @ 101.01 mph, only w/ bolt-ons
    '95 SC 5spd -- All Stock, except 17" Simmons wheels.
    '90 SC 35th Anny 5spd -- 3rd owner, 16k miles
    2 '89 XR7 5spd's -- on their way out, really!

  3. #3
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    Is this about your 35th.....

    If I read this correctly, you can hear the relay (near the PS hood strut) click and then you hear a few clicks in the area under the accumulator, but no humming from the ABS pump motor when KOEO.....

    Sounds to me like the dreaded bad ABS pump motor.....

    Fab up some jumper wires and apply 12 volts directly to the pump motor......

    Grey / Red wire is positive and Grey wire is negative.....

    If the motor spins freely, then you have a bad pressure switch.....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-big-e View Post
    Is this about your 35th.....

    If I read this correctly, you can hear the relay (near the PS hood strut) click and then you hear a few clicks in the area under the accumulator, but no humming from the ABS pump motor when KOEO.....

    Sounds to me like the dreaded bad ABS pump motor.....

    Fab up some jumper wires and apply 12 volts directly to the pump motor......

    Grey / Red wire is positive and Grey wire is negative.....

    If the motor spins freely, then you have a bad pressure switch.....

    Could it be that when I changed the steering column I got an ignition switch that does not power that component? I read on a previous thread that the problem was solved with an ignition switch.



    Yep it sucks this is the 35th it was all working great when it died in december.
    Where about is the main power connector for the pump.
    Last edited by ricardoa1; 04-08-2010 at 03:26 PM.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  5. #5
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    It's a round black cylindrical connector located on the side of the master cylinder unit near the DS fender well....

  6. #6
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    The power connector is hard to get to and is underneath the assembly near the drivers side fender side of the pump body. The pump is bolted into the master cylinder with it's tail facing the drivers side and the drive bolted into to the master cylinder on the passenger side. The connector harness comes out the bottom of the pump and is usually clipped to the master cylinder.

    The best way to test is to have a friend help you. press the brake pedal down until you have a hard pedal . Then put your hand on the accumulator ball and have your buddy turn the key to on. If you don't feel the pump running, it's not running.

  7. #7
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    Crap, SC shuffle

    What are the current options avail for new pumps in the even of a failure.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  8. #8
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    You could try a local electrical motor rebuild company and see if they can rebuild the motor, if the motor gets power, and won't run. In general it isn't too hard to remove the master cylinder, though it helps to have the lower intake tube out of the way. You can bench test the pump motor by applying 12 volts to it to try and get it to run the motor. If you get excess sparks, or it doesn't run, it can possibly be rebuilt by a skilled individual. I had one rebuilt, cost $180 to rebuild the motor.

  9. #9
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    I have a guy here at a local alternator / starter shop that re-builds them for $140.00

    To date, he has done about 10 of them for me....

  10. #10
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    I jumped the pump and it filled the accumulator the pedal got soft. I tried running a 12V bulb on the other side of the connector to see if the light lights up but no light, assuming it was making contact during the KOEO the bulb did not light up.


    So can it be possible that the ignition swich is bad?
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  11. #11
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    It could be, but I'll bet the relay is bad.....

    You can pull it and test it with those jumper wires....

    A good relay will click when voltage is applied to the bottom two tangs....

  12. #12
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    Why did you have to change the steering column?? And what year did you use?

    Also have you tried swapping just the ignition switch from the old column over to the `new' one??

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by 91 XR7 View Post
    Why did you have to change the steering column?? And what year did you use?

    Also have you tried swapping just the ignition switch from the old column over to the `new' one??


    Manual steering columns have a button to take the key out. So since I did not like to half ~~~ the conversion job I used a manual column. I will eliminate that possibility tonight.

    It was working flawless three months ago...


    How do you check the relay? At the same connector?

    You guys mentioned that it could have been the pressure switch. I am getting confused whats the next procedure to check the next component.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

  14. #14
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    Location
    Lakeville, MN
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    13,517
    to check the relay, do it the easy way. Again, a buddy or buddest, turns the key while you touch the relay. does it go click? no, then either it's getting no power, or it gets power but is stuck.

    Pressure switch? Simple, just jumper the connectors on the switch so that the power just goes from one side to the other. The pressure switch just OPENS when the set pressure is reached.

  15. #15
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    I tried the ignition switch for giggles since it seemed easy. And it did not do it. I felt it was something to do with my 5spd conversion and and poked around and used a flashlight to see if any connectors were loose, well the connector to the pressure switch, I assume the one next to the pump, well that connector came undone. I must have been pulling on the harness too hard when installing the clutch master. All seems to be well. I ran the KOEO test and the pump pumps and shuts off. Thank you all for the response know I have a pretty good idea how the system works.

    But while testing the pump seems to turn on after pressing the brake pedel more then two times. Is this a bad accumulator or is it normal operation? After this scare I want to prevent pump failure and will replace the ball if you guys think is necessary. I heard 8 pumps is the is about norm?
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC
    Old numbers on 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP off the bottle-12.2535 @112.18 off the bottle. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs, New numbers 480whp on dream crusher.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car
    2005 SAAB 9-3 Aero 2.0L TURBO Work Mule

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