I will be removing it in the next few weeks.
I will P.M. you directly when available and we can go from there.
Rob
Barn find 89 SC
- Thread starter robby
- Start date
I will be removing it in the next few weeks.
I will P.M. you directly when available and we can go from there.
Rob
BlackbirdSc94
Registered User
thats not a project, its an investment
update, barn find.
Well, so far, so good.
Thought an update might be in order.
After pulling plugs (good grief!) oiling cylinders and planning for the worst, I put a socket on the crank pully and......it turned as though it had been shut off yesterday......guess the garage was drier than I thought.
It required a battery replacement (of course) and the solenoid had signed off.
Replaced that and spun it a bit without plugs to pre oil the bearings and whatnot.
Put the plugs back in a reinstalled all the tubes (good grief again) and got ahold of the strip gaskets for the top of the SC. All good.
During my cranking and key on periods I could hear the fuel pump pressure up...That surprised me....I figured it would be stuck.
Tank was full.......15 year old fuel, but full.
I crossed my fingers and hit it.....it started!!!!!! and ran crudier and crudier and it was clear it was drowning in fuel.
A bit of time, a couple of tests, 115.00 later a re-man MAF was installed and the engine got happy......stunk bad.....cats were POed....guess they didn't like the rather fat mixture required to burn that old stuff.
I siphoned off ten gallons and replaced it with ten gallons of 104 @ 6.50 a gallon.
Figured it would be a good injector cleaner and a side benifit....smelled way better.
Coolant changed, oil changed, I'll change the oil again in about 100 miles then shift to Mobil 1.
Trans and rear end look clean.....remember, 6900 miles.
They'll get changed when I do the M1.
Pulled the old American Racing 10 million spoke wheels and the rotors got sent to my sons shop for not much more than a gentle slice the rust off....there was no warpage.
The ancient pads look fine.
Put new Goodyear Eagle GT's on the never been out in the weather original rims and reassembled the whole shootin match.
The first drive was about 3 weeks ago.....just kept it in the area....maybe total mileage was 30 and just kinda excersized it up and down through the gears.
Clutch takeup was weird till the flywheel and pressure plate cleaned up...I'm guessing they were surface corroded just like the rotors.
The engagement and release is smooth now.
The A/C is inop... there still is freon in it, just not enouph to trigger the low pressure switch....I have a evacuator and gages and about 90 lbs. of R-12 so that is on the things to do list.
I removed the spoiler and tape sealed the holes. My body ship will get the lid dropped off in another week or two for welding and refinishing.
Speaking of the finish, during the first wash and clay job I found the trunk full of water.
Lucky this thing was indoors over the years, it wouldn't have quarter panels anymore had it been outdoors.
The tailights leaked....big time and the right body seam had never been corectly sealed....leaked right through the dum-dum.
Found the taillamps leaking some at the mount bolts but big time at the locating studs.
Ford uses a foam gasket at that position....both of these had turned to dust and remember, this car has not been outdoors so, you might want to check your birds out.
I simply made a black RTV button about 1/4" thick at the locater position on the body and sank the lens unit into it.
Once dry, you can see into the gap and it just looks like a seal.
I used body sealant on the unfinished seam.
I have flooded the heck out of the lamp and lid area.....nice and dry.
Currently, I am repairing the upper console....seems when Ford built it they broke 11 of the plastic studs off that secure the rubber seal and backup plate for the park brake handle to go through.
I blame Ford because Tink says it has never been apart for any reason.
So, I am plastic welding studs back on since this part is no longer available....no problem, just a bit of time.
Once I had washed and clayed the finish I found it to be in remarkable condition.....very dry, but very workable.
I had my PDR guy come by to remove 5 good size dings in the hood, all left of center....things were falling off the garage shelf onto the hood.
One was quite deep and the PDR guy was concerned the paint may crack or it would not fully come out, but the finish hung in there.
The stretch was a touch too extreme though and I can find it if I study it.
I decided to run with it.
He also pushed 2 out of the drivers door and a real mild one out of the left quarter.....might have been a rake handle.
Since then I have D/A polished the entire vehicle (save the trunk lid) and D/A waxed to get the paint back on its feet...there is no clear coat damage at this writing and it is responding well.
I have put about 60 miles on it since the tires/brakes/ fluid service and it drives and handles flawlessly so far.
Sadly, it now shows 7020 on the odometer so I guess I popped the cherry.
I'll be asking more questions as this comes to fruition but I have one now.
The issue is the radio.....it doesn't, uh, work?
Ok here's what I have.
It has the JBL system with the C/D changer and casette in the head unit, C/D changer below, and a big ole box in the trunk says JBL.
The clock works and is accurate.
When I turn the radio on, it displays whatever station I was last at.
There is no sound.
If I hit search, it just searches without ever stopping as though the antenna wasn't there......BTW I've got the dash pulled so I could inspect a bit....no surprises yet.
If I put a tape in it, it accepts it and it runs, but still, no sound.
The C/D changer appears dead....there is no display, it does not accept a disc.....uh, you can insert a disc but it shows no evidence of load attempt.
I pulled the inner fender to satisfy myself the antenna is connected....needed to make myself happy even though it has nothing to do with the tape or C/D.
But, I don't yet know if the antenna cable goes to the front units or all the way to the box in the back.
I intend to keep this car stock so......ideas?
Thanks in advance, I'll be back on later tonight.
Rob
Well, so far, so good.
Thought an update might be in order.
After pulling plugs (good grief!) oiling cylinders and planning for the worst, I put a socket on the crank pully and......it turned as though it had been shut off yesterday......guess the garage was drier than I thought.
It required a battery replacement (of course) and the solenoid had signed off.
Replaced that and spun it a bit without plugs to pre oil the bearings and whatnot.
Put the plugs back in a reinstalled all the tubes (good grief again) and got ahold of the strip gaskets for the top of the SC. All good.
During my cranking and key on periods I could hear the fuel pump pressure up...That surprised me....I figured it would be stuck.
Tank was full.......15 year old fuel, but full.
I crossed my fingers and hit it.....it started!!!!!! and ran crudier and crudier and it was clear it was drowning in fuel.
A bit of time, a couple of tests, 115.00 later a re-man MAF was installed and the engine got happy......stunk bad.....cats were POed....guess they didn't like the rather fat mixture required to burn that old stuff.
I siphoned off ten gallons and replaced it with ten gallons of 104 @ 6.50 a gallon.
Figured it would be a good injector cleaner and a side benifit....smelled way better.
Coolant changed, oil changed, I'll change the oil again in about 100 miles then shift to Mobil 1.
Trans and rear end look clean.....remember, 6900 miles.
They'll get changed when I do the M1.
Pulled the old American Racing 10 million spoke wheels and the rotors got sent to my sons shop for not much more than a gentle slice the rust off....there was no warpage.
The ancient pads look fine.
Put new Goodyear Eagle GT's on the never been out in the weather original rims and reassembled the whole shootin match.
The first drive was about 3 weeks ago.....just kept it in the area....maybe total mileage was 30 and just kinda excersized it up and down through the gears.
Clutch takeup was weird till the flywheel and pressure plate cleaned up...I'm guessing they were surface corroded just like the rotors.
The engagement and release is smooth now.
The A/C is inop... there still is freon in it, just not enouph to trigger the low pressure switch....I have a evacuator and gages and about 90 lbs. of R-12 so that is on the things to do list.
I removed the spoiler and tape sealed the holes. My body ship will get the lid dropped off in another week or two for welding and refinishing.
Speaking of the finish, during the first wash and clay job I found the trunk full of water.
Lucky this thing was indoors over the years, it wouldn't have quarter panels anymore had it been outdoors.
The tailights leaked....big time and the right body seam had never been corectly sealed....leaked right through the dum-dum.
Found the taillamps leaking some at the mount bolts but big time at the locating studs.
Ford uses a foam gasket at that position....both of these had turned to dust and remember, this car has not been outdoors so, you might want to check your birds out.
I simply made a black RTV button about 1/4" thick at the locater position on the body and sank the lens unit into it.
Once dry, you can see into the gap and it just looks like a seal.
I used body sealant on the unfinished seam.
I have flooded the heck out of the lamp and lid area.....nice and dry.
Currently, I am repairing the upper console....seems when Ford built it they broke 11 of the plastic studs off that secure the rubber seal and backup plate for the park brake handle to go through.
I blame Ford because Tink says it has never been apart for any reason.
So, I am plastic welding studs back on since this part is no longer available....no problem, just a bit of time.
Once I had washed and clayed the finish I found it to be in remarkable condition.....very dry, but very workable.
I had my PDR guy come by to remove 5 good size dings in the hood, all left of center....things were falling off the garage shelf onto the hood.
One was quite deep and the PDR guy was concerned the paint may crack or it would not fully come out, but the finish hung in there.
The stretch was a touch too extreme though and I can find it if I study it.
I decided to run with it.
He also pushed 2 out of the drivers door and a real mild one out of the left quarter.....might have been a rake handle.
Since then I have D/A polished the entire vehicle (save the trunk lid) and D/A waxed to get the paint back on its feet...there is no clear coat damage at this writing and it is responding well.
I have put about 60 miles on it since the tires/brakes/ fluid service and it drives and handles flawlessly so far.
Sadly, it now shows 7020 on the odometer so I guess I popped the cherry.
I'll be asking more questions as this comes to fruition but I have one now.
The issue is the radio.....it doesn't, uh, work?
Ok here's what I have.
It has the JBL system with the C/D changer and casette in the head unit, C/D changer below, and a big ole box in the trunk says JBL.
The clock works and is accurate.
When I turn the radio on, it displays whatever station I was last at.
There is no sound.
If I hit search, it just searches without ever stopping as though the antenna wasn't there......BTW I've got the dash pulled so I could inspect a bit....no surprises yet.
If I put a tape in it, it accepts it and it runs, but still, no sound.
The C/D changer appears dead....there is no display, it does not accept a disc.....uh, you can insert a disc but it shows no evidence of load attempt.
I pulled the inner fender to satisfy myself the antenna is connected....needed to make myself happy even though it has nothing to do with the tape or C/D.
But, I don't yet know if the antenna cable goes to the front units or all the way to the box in the back.
I intend to keep this car stock so......ideas?
Thanks in advance, I'll be back on later tonight.
Rob
Last edited:
Duffy Floyd
SCCoA Lifetime Member
Paul Prontos can re-do your JBL system for you. The problem is that the electrolytic capacitors in the head units dry out and the radio fails. He only works on JBL systems so you are in luck. The antenna wire runs to the head unit only. The sub and second power amp is in the trunk and likely the foam in the sub unit has fallen apart as well.
Pat DiPersia
SCCoA Admin
I second Paul - does GOOD work! If you can't find his contact info, let me know and I'll dig.
cntinuum
Registered User
Hydralic Motor Mounts
Hi Rob,
Great that you have the time and desire to restore this car.
As I was cleaning my engine compartment up, it dawned on me that you should pay attention to the motor mounts. They are/were hydraulic. The rubber oxidizes on the outside and the oil deteriorates the rubber from the inside. Most likely, the ones on the car, are shot. Of course, this is quite a job and this information would have been more useful when you were doing other work on the car. Most are replacing with solid mounts.
On my car, '95 SC 5spd, the oil pan has been rubbing the top of the K member. There is a line for the steering rack that runs right over the very top of the K member under the oil pan. It shows wear. There is a line that runs up the passenger shock tower and it is all beat in and most likely closed. I believe this is from the engine rotating.
There are rubber stops on the top side of the mount on the driver's side and I had nothing on the bottom side on the passenger side. Few people have seen what the factory rubber stops looks like. Pictures of the mounts would be great.
SCCoA user TwoTimeSC is the specialist on JBL's, as Duffy mentioned. Has quite the following.
Good luck with your "Investment grade" project.
-Dave
Hi Rob,
Great that you have the time and desire to restore this car.
As I was cleaning my engine compartment up, it dawned on me that you should pay attention to the motor mounts. They are/were hydraulic. The rubber oxidizes on the outside and the oil deteriorates the rubber from the inside. Most likely, the ones on the car, are shot. Of course, this is quite a job and this information would have been more useful when you were doing other work on the car. Most are replacing with solid mounts.
On my car, '95 SC 5spd, the oil pan has been rubbing the top of the K member. There is a line for the steering rack that runs right over the very top of the K member under the oil pan. It shows wear. There is a line that runs up the passenger shock tower and it is all beat in and most likely closed. I believe this is from the engine rotating.
There are rubber stops on the top side of the mount on the driver's side and I had nothing on the bottom side on the passenger side. Few people have seen what the factory rubber stops looks like. Pictures of the mounts would be great.
SCCoA user TwoTimeSC is the specialist on JBL's, as Duffy mentioned. Has quite the following.
Good luck with your "Investment grade" project.
-Dave
Hi Dave and thanks for the reminder.
I have seen and read the various posts relative to the motor mounts.
Actually, I have some experience with these 'fluid filled' designs.
My own 96 V-6 Blazer uses a similar design.
Mine died maybe 5 years ago.
There are no components on it that rub....just begins to carry the characteristic V-6 vibes into the chassis at idle....felt like a ole 4 banger.
While the intercooler pipes and intake ductwork were out of the way on the Bird I did indeed inspect the mount condition. Also, while underneath I was verifying pan clearance/interference.
All remains as designed and this may be, to a degree, because the mounts have been subjected to time but not much heat.
Speculation on my part.
Regardless, my plan is to take care of what is required now and operate it some this season to develop a list of needs for resolution over the winter.
Currently, mount replacement will be one of those things based on the, what appears to be, 100% failure rate.
But, even if they weren't fluid filled, I consider a 20+ year old mount somewhat suspicious.
But, to anyone following this thread, feel free to mention things that have pattern failures, like the H/Gasket concerns, mounts, ABS, radio, etcetera.
You all have been at this for awhile.....I, on the other hand, have been away from Ford products since about 1980, so your input is very valuable to me.
Rob
I wanted to take a minute and thank everyone who responded to my radio reciever/CD player questions.
I did indeed contact Paul as everyone suggested and we spoke on the phone.
He is most engaging, one of those folks you wish you could spend hours talking too.
A wealth of knowledge, he forwarded me the info and photos relative to servicing the sub unit......If you read this, Thanks Paul!
The units were shipped to Paul today.
Next question involves the boost gauge.
It works.....well, I mean the needle swings as I think it should but, with the engine off, the needle is not at the 0.
Actually, it sits at about 3 hg vacuum.
So, before I get heavyhanded and wreck a meter.....is this just a gently pull the needle and recenter deal?
Or, is a meter replacement in order.
Since it appears this vehicle is largely made of unobtainium, I'm hesitant to mess with it too much......more willing to live with it as a quirk if that turns out to be the recommendation.
As always, thanks in advance,
Rob
I did indeed contact Paul as everyone suggested and we spoke on the phone.
He is most engaging, one of those folks you wish you could spend hours talking too.
A wealth of knowledge, he forwarded me the info and photos relative to servicing the sub unit......If you read this, Thanks Paul!
The units were shipped to Paul today.
Next question involves the boost gauge.
It works.....well, I mean the needle swings as I think it should but, with the engine off, the needle is not at the 0.
Actually, it sits at about 3 hg vacuum.
So, before I get heavyhanded and wreck a meter.....is this just a gently pull the needle and recenter deal?
Or, is a meter replacement in order.
Since it appears this vehicle is largely made of unobtainium, I'm hesitant to mess with it too much......more willing to live with it as a quirk if that turns out to be the recommendation.
As always, thanks in advance,
Rob