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Thread: NHRA approved driveshaft loop ?

  1. #31
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    Keith: Thanks for the info and the sanity check....I definitely be making an upgrade.


    Quote Originally Posted by VicRattlehead View Post
    that is NOT NHRA legal. here is what it says.......

    In place of a crossmember, in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts, must have a retainer loop 360-degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) minimum thickness and 2-inches (5.1 cm) wide, or 7/8-inch (22.2 mm) x .065-inch (1.65 mm) welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6-inches (15.2 cm) of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure



    notice the red piece of driveshaft in the lower left side of the picture...



    http://www.competitionplus.com/index...at-htranspired

    this right here is why i believe NHRA should make EVERYONE have 2 loops, one front one in the rear, and anything faster then 8.99's should have the tunnel. I was at the start line when Barb made this pass. this car is a brand new 120k chassis, was just finished in time for the nmra/nmca joliet race last month. there was nothing that showed that she was in trouble, even through everything, she kept that car right down the middle of the track.
    Last edited by SCrazy; 08-15-2010 at 12:15 PM.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  2. #32
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    I just finished putting one in today. It took a little bit of smoothing out with a flap disc on an angle grinder and I had to put a little more bend in a few spots, but for how cheap it was, it worked out well.

    $20 from Jegs.



    CORN GAAAAASSS!!!


  3. #33
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    I also finished putting my loop in today. I am about ready for the event; just a few more things to do.

    Mike
    1989 Cougar XR7 - [I]Modified[/I]
    1967 Cougar XR7 - untouched -
    2011 F350 Crew Cab Superduty FX4
    6.7 diesel 435hp/800 ft lbs torque
    2009 Smart
    2010 Harley Davidson Ultra Classic

  4. #34
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    that's a lot of nuts and bolts. I don't see any nyloc nuts either. Did you throw some loctite on those threads? Otherwise you may want to check them after the season to make sure none of them loosen up.
    T-Bird How To tips - Latest, reattach glass to regulator sash clips
    90 SC AOD *SOLD*
    93 SC 5spd -441hp/462tq *SOLD*

  5. #35
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    The kit came with nuts, bolts, and lock washers. It has four pairs of holes, on each L-bracket to select which loop height you need.
    CORN GAAAAASSS!!!


  6. #36
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    I personally do not use only lock washers in an application I would prefer never comes loose. They simply are not effective.
    http://www.eng-tips.com/faqs.cfm?fid=1257
    T-Bird How To tips - Latest, reattach glass to regulator sash clips
    90 SC AOD *SOLD*
    93 SC 5spd -441hp/462tq *SOLD*

  7. #37
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    They're not as effective as nylon lock nuts are, but they certainly aren't zero. The spring like activity will serve as an added restraint as opposed to having nothing there. If it was only a washer with a crack in it, then that assumes there isn't any elastic memory in the washer itself. In the very least, it slows the rate at which the mechanical vibrations loosens the nut.

    Anyways, I'll just keep an eye on it, regardless.
    CORN GAAAAASSS!!!


  8. #38
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    Check out this video showing a standard nut turning off a bolt when under vibration. then the next one showing a standard nut with a spring (split) washer.
    http://www.boltscience.com/pages/junkertestplainnut.htm
    http://www.boltscience.com/pages/jun...ringwasher.htm

    I'm not sure I would be confident in saying a lock washer is better than nothing. In fact, information at the site above states:

    http://www.boltscience.com/pages/vibloose.htm
    As a result, a rationalisation of the variety of locking devices used by such major companies has occurred. For example, conventional spring lock washers are no longer specified, because it has been shown that they actually aid self loosening rather than prevent it.
    I'm not arguing that you shouldn't use them. Just trying to share some information I've dug up over the last couple years that I've found makes use of lock washers questionable. I've still used them in various applications, often times just from the idea of peace of mind, even though info I've seen says that is the opposite of what they give you.
    T-Bird How To tips - Latest, reattach glass to regulator sash clips
    90 SC AOD *SOLD*
    93 SC 5spd -441hp/462tq *SOLD*

  9. #39
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    It's cool, Mike. I looked at it as a conversation.

    That's interesting stuff. Are the vibrations of the same magnitude in each test? I'm also a skeptic towards the split washers, but I have never assumed their effectiveness to be null. Thinking about it actually makes me agree with accelerating loosening of the nut or bolt. I give thought to many petty things, but not locking fasteners. Obviously nylocs aren't skeptical, once they're away from heat, at least.

    They're annoying to tighten, though.
    Last edited by CMac89; 08-22-2010 at 08:02 PM.
    CORN GAAAAASSS!!!


  10. #40
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    yes, vibrations the same for each test. The company has something they call a junker which is a machine that is able to create shearing forces to duplicate vibrations over time but within a much shorter period. they've tested a number of fasteners and locking devices.

    Their double nut test was pretty interesting as well.
    http://www.boltscience.com/pages/twonuts.htm
    T-Bird How To tips - Latest, reattach glass to regulator sash clips
    90 SC AOD *SOLD*
    93 SC 5spd -441hp/462tq *SOLD*

  11. #41
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    Funny I read all this, I also just installed a Summit Racing brand loop just like the one Casey pictured. Had an issue with it hitting on my exhaust under load, nothing a large pry bar didn't help.

    Mine however did not come with lock washers, just serrated nuts which had the washer built it. I'm not to sure how good I feel about that but I plan on checking them after awhile.

  12. #42
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    Also, just to poke fun on Mike

    I read your sig 93 SC - before: 275hp/343tq 13.709 @ 104.25 After: 441hp/462tq Best so far 13.449 @ 111.59

    I think you need to spend more time at the track and less time researching fastener vibrational loosening.

  13. #43
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    I need to install one on mine. Your car in canton? Mine is in AK right now.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by super red91 View Post
    Also, just to poke fun on Mike

    I read your sig 93 SC - before: 275hp/343tq 13.709 @ 104.25 After: 441hp/462tq Best so far 13.449 @ 111.59

    I think you need to spend more time at the track and less time researching fastener vibrational loosening.
    Yeah...........dork!!
    CORN GAAAAASSS!!!


  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by super red91 View Post
    Also, just to poke fun on Mike

    I read your sig 93 SC - before: 275hp/343tq 13.709 @ 104.25 After: 441hp/462tq Best so far 13.449 @ 111.59

    I think you need to spend more time at the track and less time researching fastener vibrational loosening.
    Considering the length of time i've been willing to live with a non-functional trac lock it is important that other parts I've installed don't fall off waiting for me... thus the research.
    T-Bird How To tips - Latest, reattach glass to regulator sash clips
    90 SC AOD *SOLD*
    93 SC 5spd -441hp/462tq *SOLD*

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