ARP 12pt Intake bolts plus SCU AR kit =

XxSlowpokexX

XxSlowpokexX

Registered User
EPIC FAIL!!!....After spending a considerable time wondering why my AR wasnt fitting properly....I soon discoveres that the AR itself was hitting the ARP 12pt intake bolts I have.....SOOOOOOOOOOO I would highly consider not getting them if you have an AR! The heads are just to tall.

What I do however recomend is getting studs for the inlet return plenum. It makes everything go together real smoth....

OH And I also dont reccomend having your freind do your header gasket on one side unattended while you do the otherside....Because he just might PUT IT IN UPSIDE DOWN....And you will go.."HEY...Where are my spark plug holes....."

Slowly but surely Its comming back together...
 
Hahaha. That help thing can be more of a hassle than what it's worth.

If you would like to sell those bolts let me know. I need some.
 
I only changed out the ones that I needed to for clearance thus I dont have a full set. But if you are going to buy some I have I believe 8 lying around now haha. I think they were 4 or 5 per package
 
I found out the same thing with just regular bolts and washers. I had to remove the washers from a few of the bolts to make the AR sit nice.
 
I had a similar issue... mostly due to complete lack of any documentation. I was using stock replacement bolts from McMaster Carr
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59641&highlight=intake+manifold+bolt


The Bolts head is 5.3mm tall. That plus the washers was having issues with the AR in two spots. In one of the spots I was able to clock the bolt a bit tighter to move one of the points out of the way. In the other spot I ground down the head of the bolt to clearance the AR.

I.e. in the one in this square was ground down.


The temp sender stack on the intake manifold had to be clearanced on this side, significantly.


and some further clearance work was done on the intake manifold, and the bolt that I turned a bit is in this picture as well.


Zoom in in this pic and you can see the clearance work done. I the end, I didn't need to clearance as much as I did on that bolt, and had to do more on the temp sender stack as once the front snout bracket was on, there was a little more room on the drivers side and less on the passenger side.



Note that you do need some excess room when you are fitting things together. As once you have everything bolted in, and the fuel rail tied down, if you ever want to pull the blower without disassembling everything, you'll need to be able to turn the blower slightly to pull it up through the fuel rail. Thus you need some clearance on the bolts.

All of that said. Each SCU kit was slightly different. So the particular issues that I had may not be issues you or anyone else had. i.e. in the end I junked the fuel rail in the pictures and had to fab up my own setup to fit.
 
Corey, you should only have an issue with intake manifold bolts. The 1.7 isn't as long as the 2.0 too require clearancing on the temp sender stack.
 
XxSlowpokexX said:
OH And I also dont reccomend having your freind do your header gasket on one side unattended while you do the otherside....Because he just might PUT IT IN UPSIDE DOWN....And you will go.."HEY...Where are my spark plug holes....."
Click to expand...

From what I have experienced, it is the only way they fit. It is a flawed design. I had to trim around the plug holes on all the ones I have done. Maybe I have just been doing it wrong all these years.

Thomas
 
I also had to clearance the temp sender and work the charger in between the rails I use stock intake bolts with no trouble there. I have the 2.0.
 
He actually put the gasket in upsidedown..The factory bolts have a very shallow head. Milling down the ARP would just be ehhh...ESPECIALLY since its all tonether now!

And I had the intake already trimmed so everything fit great except for the intake bolts.....DAMMIT!!!!

But I did a real sweet job installing the meth kit which was a major PIA with the safe injection and the Stage 3 MPG...Wires wires everywhere. But I took my time and its real neat. There is a guy in CT very familiar with the system so he said hed help me set it up.

Overall I have about a few hours left of work. Upper IC tube, half the lower IC tube, o2 sensors, header collector bolts and thats about it. Then clean it up a bit and see how she runs...

I do fear that I have some sort of computer issue however as the car was running like dog doo before tearing it apart to find out my head gaskets were great but I had a cracked head.... But we shall see...Works been killing me and I only have maybe at best a day a week which is usually spent tracking down lil parts here and there.

overall Im just dying to see what a difference the Meth kit, plus proper pushrods, plus the ported big valve heads to for my car...Cuz it was feeling pretty good before hand (before it was taking a poop) arrhhhhhhhhhh
 
rzimmerl said:
Corey, you should only have an issue with intake manifold bolts. The 1.7 isn't as long as the 2.0 too require clearancing on the temp sender stack.
Click to expand...

Correct...Cory, if you reuse the stock intake manifold bolts along with the bolts I provided to attach the return plenum it should drop right into position.

David
 
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