Headgasket went South!! Upgrades??

Silver R

Registered User
Head Gasket went south yesterday.... Now that I'm doing the head gaskets what can I upgrade? I don't need anything over the top but a few gains in HP wouldn't hurt..:) Any suggestions? I will only be paying for part cost no labor.. I have a real good friend who is a mechanic and has his own shop. I dismantle and he puts everything back together. :) Do I need to change to ARP studs? Reason? Any and all comments welcomed... Thanks
 
if you have the ability and a place to do it, pull the motor and get it on a engine stand.

that way you can give the motor a look over and change rear main seal, front main seal, resal oil pan, (inspect main and rod bearings) and freshen all that stuff up in engine bay that is almost impossible to do while motor is in there.

while motor is out would be a good time to swap abs for vacuum booster if you have that planned. Clean engine bay, inspect for rust and corrosion in wires. ect ect.

then have block inspected and if possible have it machined for MLS gaskets. ARP sutds, and Port the manifolds. There is work that can be done to the heads (porting) but i dont hear much about that on here just the manifolds are the problem.

new balancer and hoses. new vacuum lines on everything.. then reassemble.

wow sounds like my car!!!
 
Low cost..

I'd get arp head studs for a 2.8 chevy v6 under 100 bucks YOU NEED THESE. And regular felpro gaskets will be fine

I'd get my heads checked and new valvesprings installed. Upgraded comps. Stock springs are marginal at best

If you know someone who can port the heads on the low cost side go for it.

Ive seen a few used cams on here on the mild side. Not such a bad idea while your at it. Cost generally around $100

This would give you a nice reliable bost in power you can feel with minimal cost off the bat. Not overboard but nice relaiable power
 
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Did look at changing out the springs but which should I get? And can you explain why the ARP studs are a must? Will I have to change my push rods for and updated cam to work properly?
 
Your springs are most likely alright....

ARP studs will allow you to reuse them if you ever have to take the heads off again.....

As for the push rods, it depends on what type of cam you are looking to install.....

I would definitly port the exhaust manifolds.....
 
Your springs are most likely alright....

ARP studs will allow you to reuse them if you ever have to take the heads off again.....

As for the push rods, it depends on what type of cam you are looking to install.....

I would definitly port the exhaust manifolds.....

Seriously stock springs are marginal when new . And yours arent new. If you go with a new cam they are definitly no good. Just because they dont bind at a certain lift doesnt mean the spring presures are enough

Torque to yeild bolts are difficult to do properly. Pluss you will need to buy new ones anyway as they are not reusable. The ARP studs are under 100$ and well worth it. Its always a good idea to check pushrod lenght. Its one of our weak points head gasket sealing wise if you ask me.

If you get a new cam its a good idea to check pushrod lenght. If its a regrind you will definitely need new ones as the factory will be to short. I ran them that way and got a bit of valvetrain noise.

Do a search for reccomended springs. I cant recall the exact number
 
Would have to look around to see if anyone does that locally.. :confused: Porting the exhaust manifolds.....

There is a rather large restiction at the collector end of the stock OEM manifolds....

They can be ported out to 1.8" and larger.....
 
Here's a pic of a mild port on the exhaust manifold.

sean
 

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