here's the write up that I've been asked to make for my 4r70w swap in my 91 titanium, this may not pertain to the 89-91 GURE and GSALC equipped ecu's as their pin out is probably different, you'll have to cross reference the differences between them and the later model ecu's
heres the full pin out for the 91+ ecu's for reference http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17040
here's the wires that need to be ran to the ecu, i hit the junkyard and cut off an ecu connector to use the pins, the pins unclip using a pick after removing the red retaining tab,its pretty basic, you'll know exactly what im talking about when you see it, i simply removed the pin from my junkyard connector and snapped them into my connector so i had something to tap in to
the 4r70w transmission harness pins changed slightly in 98, use this as reference for your specific trans
the 4r70w under went some improvements in 98 making it stronger and more reliable, best bet is to source a 98+ trans, only the v6 engine and the 5.0 engine (explorer and mountaineer) have the correct 4r70w case with the sbf bellhousing, the 4.6L 4r70w excluding some unique pre94's have the modular bellhousing and WILL NOT WORK ON A SUPERCOUPE without a bellhousing or a case swap which is not really all the feasible since the correct trans could be had in the first place making life much easier
in 95 henry changed the tcc solenoid from 1 ohm to 10 ohms, the 95 vic town car and marquis were the only 3 that changed to 10 ohm in 95, all else officially changed in 96, you'll need a 1 ohm tcc from a pre95 transmission
i used a tcc from a 93 mark8, i used dikes and cut the connector off the tcc so i could retain the newer style board inside the trans rather than having wires dangle inside it, removed a couple bolts swapped it out and i was good to go
ecu pin #/ where it needs to be ran to
2 brake switch
5 transmission-oss
30 trans range MLPS, already ran to the trans stock
38 transmission-epc
41 transmission-tcs o/d cancel 12v input
46 sig return
49 transmission-TOT/TFT
51 transmission-sol1
52 transmission-sol2
53 transmission-tcc
55 transmission-tcil
the ecu unlocks the converter when you hit the brake thus pin2
pin30 is already ran to the stock aod/m5r2 trans, its part of the neutral start circuit, i tapped into it at the stock transmission harness under the car
pin41 i ran to my 97 cougar shifter that i scored at the yard, i wired it to the monetary o/d cancel switch and used a 12v source that was already at the center console for the console light, my o/d cancel switch now functions like stock
if you have a 91-93 sc you'll need to move pin 53 to 55, this is the upshift lamp module wire, doing this turns the upshift lamp on when you disable o/d and it'll also flash if a trans fault is detected, i also removed that stupid chime module as the upshift lamp being on will make it beep constantly when o/d is disabled, to each their own
pin46 is signal return, you'll need to tap into the wire at the ecu
the mlps changed as well over the years, you'll need a pre 98
the driveshaft between the aod and the 4r70w is different in length as well as yoke diameter, the 4r70w has the same tooth count on the yoke but its thicker and stronger than the weaker aod yoke, using an aod yoke in a 4r70w will leak at the tailshaft, unless you swap the tailshaft, the 4r70w and the aod tailshafts are direct swap outs, just unbolt and bolt the other back up, doing so you can use an aod yoke on a 4r70w
best bet is to snag the driveshaft from a 94-95 supercoupe and not have to worry about any fitment issues, i had to go the mark8 1 piece route keep in mind by going that route i had to get it shortened, for those that don't have a full machine shop at their leisure, expect to pay $75+ to get it cut welded and balanced
I gathered:
$35 w4h0 ecu from 95 mustang gt auto (i highly recommend the 94-95 sc auto ecu)
$150 2001 v6 mustang 4r70w with wiring connector and converter
$13 one piece aluminum d/s from 93 mark8 at the yard
$1 mlps and connector from 97 cougar, tcc from 93 mark8, ecu connector for pins
$12 new filter
$39 12qts mercon-v
$20 4r70w shifter w/ o/d cancel button from 97 cougar
$80 B&M bar and plate trans cooler
spare wire, solder and iron, electrical tape, rubber trans hose, and heat shrink wrap protective looming i had laying around
for a grand total of $350 after it was all said and done :lol: that's the whole she-bang for cheaper than you can even buy a baumannator and it works 1000x better
now keep in mind the 94-95 sc comes stock equipped with 36# injectors and EDIS ignition (89-93 have external TFI "DIS" ignition), the 94-95 sc ecu does not support the "TFI" ignition types, so if you do not wish to swap to the better EDIS ignition setup you will HAVE TO use a 94-95 mustang ecu in your 89-93 supercoupe which will require a chip to correct a BUNCH of stuff, so unless you have 36# squirters and the EDIS setup to swap in at that time, you'll have to factor in the price of a chip, im sure theres lots of folks around here that can do this it for you, but if not, shoot me a PM or an email and I'll send you out a chip ~$100
decipha at efidynotuning dot com
i reused the aod cooler lines and spliced in my cooler after the trans fluid exited the radiator, i mounted the cooler up in front the condenser directly in line with the vent port in the front bumper
i choose to use the 94-95 mustang v8 ecu since I had it laying around, another option would be to swap to edis and use the 94-95 sc auto ecu
if anyone needs a stock "supercoupe" tune for a cbaza ecu (94-95 mustang v8 ecu) PM or email me and i'll send it your way
be sure you set the mlps correctly, put the shifter in neutral and rotate the mlps until it lines up with the neutral mark then tighten it down, i then put the shifter in drive and set the transmission lever in drive and tightening the adjustment nuts to prevent being in between gear selections while cruising (which will damage a transmission). i used a 97 cougar shifter cable bracket so everything bolted right up smoothly
so was it worth it? HELLL YEAHHH, their's absolutely nothing like having your transmission shift and lock up right when where and how you want it to, changing my shift point, pressure, and converter lockup is as easy as just pressing a few buttons on the laptop
im sure there's something i missed but thats the gist of it, this was really basic and not hard to do at all, I'd rate this swap 2 out of 5 wrenches as for difficulty rating, all in all if i had everything from the get go i'd probably been able to knock it out in ~6 hours or so
i think that about cover's it if i wasn't clear or if i forgot something don't hesitate to ask
heres the full pin out for the 91+ ecu's for reference http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17040
here's the wires that need to be ran to the ecu, i hit the junkyard and cut off an ecu connector to use the pins, the pins unclip using a pick after removing the red retaining tab,its pretty basic, you'll know exactly what im talking about when you see it, i simply removed the pin from my junkyard connector and snapped them into my connector so i had something to tap in to
the 4r70w transmission harness pins changed slightly in 98, use this as reference for your specific trans
the 4r70w under went some improvements in 98 making it stronger and more reliable, best bet is to source a 98+ trans, only the v6 engine and the 5.0 engine (explorer and mountaineer) have the correct 4r70w case with the sbf bellhousing, the 4.6L 4r70w excluding some unique pre94's have the modular bellhousing and WILL NOT WORK ON A SUPERCOUPE without a bellhousing or a case swap which is not really all the feasible since the correct trans could be had in the first place making life much easier
in 95 henry changed the tcc solenoid from 1 ohm to 10 ohms, the 95 vic town car and marquis were the only 3 that changed to 10 ohm in 95, all else officially changed in 96, you'll need a 1 ohm tcc from a pre95 transmission
i used a tcc from a 93 mark8, i used dikes and cut the connector off the tcc so i could retain the newer style board inside the trans rather than having wires dangle inside it, removed a couple bolts swapped it out and i was good to go
ecu pin #/ where it needs to be ran to
2 brake switch
5 transmission-oss
30 trans range MLPS, already ran to the trans stock
38 transmission-epc
41 transmission-tcs o/d cancel 12v input
46 sig return
49 transmission-TOT/TFT
51 transmission-sol1
52 transmission-sol2
53 transmission-tcc
55 transmission-tcil
the ecu unlocks the converter when you hit the brake thus pin2
pin30 is already ran to the stock aod/m5r2 trans, its part of the neutral start circuit, i tapped into it at the stock transmission harness under the car
pin41 i ran to my 97 cougar shifter that i scored at the yard, i wired it to the monetary o/d cancel switch and used a 12v source that was already at the center console for the console light, my o/d cancel switch now functions like stock
if you have a 91-93 sc you'll need to move pin 53 to 55, this is the upshift lamp module wire, doing this turns the upshift lamp on when you disable o/d and it'll also flash if a trans fault is detected, i also removed that stupid chime module as the upshift lamp being on will make it beep constantly when o/d is disabled, to each their own
pin46 is signal return, you'll need to tap into the wire at the ecu
the mlps changed as well over the years, you'll need a pre 98
the driveshaft between the aod and the 4r70w is different in length as well as yoke diameter, the 4r70w has the same tooth count on the yoke but its thicker and stronger than the weaker aod yoke, using an aod yoke in a 4r70w will leak at the tailshaft, unless you swap the tailshaft, the 4r70w and the aod tailshafts are direct swap outs, just unbolt and bolt the other back up, doing so you can use an aod yoke on a 4r70w
best bet is to snag the driveshaft from a 94-95 supercoupe and not have to worry about any fitment issues, i had to go the mark8 1 piece route keep in mind by going that route i had to get it shortened, for those that don't have a full machine shop at their leisure, expect to pay $75+ to get it cut welded and balanced
I gathered:
$35 w4h0 ecu from 95 mustang gt auto (i highly recommend the 94-95 sc auto ecu)
$150 2001 v6 mustang 4r70w with wiring connector and converter
$13 one piece aluminum d/s from 93 mark8 at the yard
$1 mlps and connector from 97 cougar, tcc from 93 mark8, ecu connector for pins
$12 new filter
$39 12qts mercon-v
$20 4r70w shifter w/ o/d cancel button from 97 cougar
$80 B&M bar and plate trans cooler
spare wire, solder and iron, electrical tape, rubber trans hose, and heat shrink wrap protective looming i had laying around
for a grand total of $350 after it was all said and done :lol: that's the whole she-bang for cheaper than you can even buy a baumannator and it works 1000x better
now keep in mind the 94-95 sc comes stock equipped with 36# injectors and EDIS ignition (89-93 have external TFI "DIS" ignition), the 94-95 sc ecu does not support the "TFI" ignition types, so if you do not wish to swap to the better EDIS ignition setup you will HAVE TO use a 94-95 mustang ecu in your 89-93 supercoupe which will require a chip to correct a BUNCH of stuff, so unless you have 36# squirters and the EDIS setup to swap in at that time, you'll have to factor in the price of a chip, im sure theres lots of folks around here that can do this it for you, but if not, shoot me a PM or an email and I'll send you out a chip ~$100
decipha at efidynotuning dot com
i reused the aod cooler lines and spliced in my cooler after the trans fluid exited the radiator, i mounted the cooler up in front the condenser directly in line with the vent port in the front bumper
i choose to use the 94-95 mustang v8 ecu since I had it laying around, another option would be to swap to edis and use the 94-95 sc auto ecu
if anyone needs a stock "supercoupe" tune for a cbaza ecu (94-95 mustang v8 ecu) PM or email me and i'll send it your way
be sure you set the mlps correctly, put the shifter in neutral and rotate the mlps until it lines up with the neutral mark then tighten it down, i then put the shifter in drive and set the transmission lever in drive and tightening the adjustment nuts to prevent being in between gear selections while cruising (which will damage a transmission). i used a 97 cougar shifter cable bracket so everything bolted right up smoothly
so was it worth it? HELLL YEAHHH, their's absolutely nothing like having your transmission shift and lock up right when where and how you want it to, changing my shift point, pressure, and converter lockup is as easy as just pressing a few buttons on the laptop
im sure there's something i missed but thats the gist of it, this was really basic and not hard to do at all, I'd rate this swap 2 out of 5 wrenches as for difficulty rating, all in all if i had everything from the get go i'd probably been able to knock it out in ~6 hours or so
i think that about cover's it if i wasn't clear or if i forgot something don't hesitate to ask
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