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Thread: VIDEO... Tach gets stuck.

  1. #1
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    VIDEO... Tach gets stuck.

    Please watch the video, the previous owner told me that he had to adjust the throttle stop screw at one point, because the car wouldnt idle, I have since replaced the cam sensor, iac, ignition switch, adjusted the tps to 0.98, cleaned the tbody, ran a whole day with the iac unplugged and it helped alot, but now it still does this everytime I get to a traffic light, what else should I try?http://static.photobucket.com/player.../VIDEO0003.mp4

  2. #2
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    You have a leak somewhere. Either a vacuum leak or a large boost leak giving a false reading to the computer from the MAF. I would be willing to bet it is a vacuum leak from all of the hoses we have on these cars. That and the way you say you ran it for a day without the IAC plugged in.

    Now...how is the tach sticking?

    BTW, that did not take long to get another SC.

    SWS

  3. #3
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    Your right does seem like a leak, I put teflon seals on the ic pipes but im missing the lower one, car is idleing horrible and to top it off the tranny just went, , lol yea its great to be back in a thunderbird .

    Anybody have a picture of how much the throttle screw should stick out?

    Edit: tach gets stuck on and jumps + or -100 rpm on the video, I dont think thats due to the vac leak.
    Last edited by 89tird; 02-10-2011 at 09:57 AM.

  4. #4
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    Fix the vacuum leak and then look into a DIS...But fix the vacuum stuff first. Carb cleaner is cheap when it comes to that sort of thing.

    SWS

  5. #5
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    Ok going to seal the sc hat with copper rtv, the dis looks like it has some brownish sealant under it instead of the usual white stuff, thanks for the help.

  6. #6
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    I bet that is not the only place if it has copper on it. Spray the crap out of the intake AT the heads to be sure, but I bet the upper and lower ICs, intake, hat, intake, and a few lines are leaking.

    I expected more help for you on this...It looks like more of a PM session than a post.

    SWS

  7. #7
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    Ok i put some copper rtv under the hat and teflon seals on all the intercooler tubes, some clamps and zip ties around some vacuum lines and now it idles at or around 18-19, but when i try to go into reverse it tries to die.

    So i kept messing with the throttle plate adjusment screw and unplugged the IAC, now the car idles around 550-600 and doesnt die in reverse, and the tach doesnt get stuck. Havent driven it in the streets to test it. So it seems that the new IAC might be bad.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89tird View Post
    Ok i put some copper rtv under the hat and teflon seals on all the intercooler tubes, some clamps and zip ties around some vacuum lines and now it idles at or around 18-19, but when i try to go into reverse it tries to die.

    So i kept messing with the throttle plate adjusment screw and unplugged the IAC, now the car idles around 550-600 and doesnt die in reverse, and the tach doesnt get stuck. Havent driven it in the streets to test it. So it seems that the new IAC might be bad.
    It could also be wrong. Meaning wrong application. That would cause this too

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by frdlvr30 View Post
    It could also be wrong. Meaning wrong application. That would cause this too
    Its a duralast, they are physically the same on the outside but the cylinder inside looks different, im going to return it and try to get an IAC from the dealer.

    Drove the car all day yesterday with the IAC unplugged, it idles awesome, so i went to the supermarket, did some grocery shopping took like 30 minutes, came outside to start the car, it started right up but died right away, seems like if the car runs awesome with iac disconnected when warm but not when cold, hopefully new IAC fixes it

  10. #10
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    check your PCV elbow. I had one that had a crack in it, and it made my car have crap idle like that.....but it also sounded like it had a huge cam in it

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