new pb

fasterthanyou

Registered User
so my name should be changed to 'slowerthanyou' lol. its slow but still managed to have fun at the track tonight. I got my money's worth and ran 8 or 9 times, all 1/4 mile runs. my three best times were 13.454@97.26, 13.423@97.05, and 13.479@97.34. didn't matter if I hot lapped or let the car sit for 45 minutes, still ran 13.4's and 13.5's all night. pretty consistant. for changing shift points, launch rpm, etc.

mods are as follows: Ported big valve heads, 1.73 RR's, true dual 2.5" exhaust with an x pipe, ported 94 with MP plenum, stock pulleys, 10psi, 4.10 gears, Big cam, .600+ lift 228/236 dur, 80mm maf, 60lb injectors, and drag radials. stock intercooler, stock piping, since I'm not running overdrive, stock throttle body, stock exhaust manifolds.

I'll post up a full run here of my best time.

60'........1.812
330'......5.389
1/8.......8.440
mph......80.16
1000.....11.114
ET........13.423
mph......97.05
 
you put a 75 throttle body, port the stock manifold's and put a 5 or %10 pulley on there and you should be in the 12's.
 
Thats a good Job.

Looking at the numbers and the slip I can tell you obviously have tracked some cars for some time. Just this one or others?

None the less great job on the numbers with the mods and the consistancy!

:)
 
no kidding!

You are using about every ounce of power.....expecially for the weight.

best I could manage at 96 mph, was a 13.85.



good job!
 
Looking at the numbers and the slip I can tell you obviously have tracked some cars for some time. Just this one or others?

None the less great job on the numbers with the mods and the consistancy!

:)

Thanks, I haven't been racing at the track as long as some of you old folks on here, though. I've been racing at the track for about 6 years. I've had two SC's in the past 2 years, I've got a foxbody with spray, and a stock blazer 4.3. all of which I take or have taken to the track just about every week.
 
I forgot to add that I have a 3400 stall converter from FTI that I just installed, I had that while I made those last passes. The converter is one of the best upgrades I've done to the car. it makes a huge difference all around. its a 9.5" so its lightweight, and it flashes to 3400 when wot. its awesome.

I have a question for you guys; what would it take to get 12's? I've got a 75mm tbody ready to install, and I have plenty of overdrive pulleys, and I've got a very large fmic that I can re-install. I used to have the fmic with my ported/modified lower intake/return plenum, but those pieces cracked and failed on my last motor. I need to come up with a way to get a silicon coupler to work on the stock return plenum in order to install my fmic. any ideas? then I could REALLY 'turn up' the boost to 15-16psi and not have to worry about iac temps.
 
XR7 Dave would be the one to ask that question. I'd certainly think the TB would help some as would the pulleys but I'm not a Knowledgeable SC person per se on mods. Once you do that you may want to have the car retuned, shift points checked.

What kind/Size tire you running on the back and front at the track?
 
mods are as follows: Ported big valve heads, 1.73 RR's, true dual 2.5" exhaust with an x pipe, ported 94 with MP plenum, stock pulleys, 10psi, 4.10 gears, Big cam, .600+ lift 228/236 dur, 80mm maf, 60lb injectors, and drag radials. stock intercooler, stock piping, since I'm not running overdrive, stock throttle body, stock exhaust manifolds.

I guess i am scratching my head on your mod list. You have a big cam, big MAF, steep gears, a high stall TQ converter, good heads. Lots of big time goodies BUT a stock IC, and still the tiny TB. How did you match the 80MM MAF to the much smaller TB? I think the tiny TB is choking air flow to the blower. The stock IC is not cooling or flowing the air needed for the good heads & cam to move and the stock exhaust manifolds are restricting air exiting the engine if they were not ported. I would bolt on a 85MM TB (there will be a lot for sale when the big dogs start bolting on their new 95MM TBs) A FMIC and port the outlet on the stock exhaust manifolds. Install a 10% crank pulley and a 5% J/S pulley and than hold on to your hat cause you will be stunned what that car will pull in the 1/4. My 2 cents anyway;) Hope your doing some tuning as well.

Ken
 
I used to have the fmic with my ported/modified lower intake/return plenum, but those pieces cracked and failed on my last motor. I need to come up with a way to get a silicon coupler to work on the stock return plenum in order to install my fmic. any ideas? then I could REALLY 'turn up' the boost to 15-16psi and not have to worry about iac temps.

Why did the pieces crack and fail???

Ken
 
Just cut off the 2 bolt flange and clamp on a silicone adapter. I have done this many times.

I just cut the end off the Upper IC tube at the blower outlet top.
Just a sawzall, then the 2.75" silicone connector DD sent me.
10 minute job if you have the parts off the car.

IF the parts are still on the car... have to see if you have room to cut it.
MAKE SURE you stuff the tube before you cut so you don't get shavings in the motor.
 
mods are as follows: Ported big valve heads, 1.73 RR's, true dual 2.5" exhaust with an x pipe, ported 94 with MP plenum, stock pulleys, 10psi, 4.10 gears, Big cam, .600+ lift 228/236 dur, 80mm maf, 60lb injectors, and drag radials. stock intercooler, stock piping, since I'm not running overdrive, stock throttle body, stock exhaust manifolds.

I guess i am scratching my head on your mod list. You have a big cam, big MAF, steep gears, a high stall TQ converter, good heads. Lots of big time goodies BUT a stock IC, and still the tiny TB. How did you match the 80MM MAF to the much smaller TB? I think the tiny TB is choking air flow to the blower. The stock IC is not cooling or flowing the air needed for the good heads & cam to move and the stock exhaust manifolds are restricting air exiting the engine if they were not ported. I would bolt on a 85MM TB (there will be a lot for sale when the big dogs start bolting on their new 95MM TBs) A FMIC and port the outlet on the stock exhaust manifolds. Install a 10% crank pulley and a 5% J/S pulley and than hold on to your hat cause you will be stunned what that car will pull in the 1/4. My 2 cents anyway;) Hope your doing some tuning as well.

Ken

Thanks for the advice Ken. I have ported 94 exhaust manifolds on the engine, I used a 3"-3.5" silicon coupler for the 80mm maf. I'm using BE/QH for tuning and the reason for the small throttle body is because my Pro-prod 75mm TB cracked by the TPS adjuster and I'm waiting for them to send me a replacement. still under warranty.

I also think another bottleneck is the stock 2" downtubes. I have gutted the cats but still, 2 inches seems small (I know, thats what she said), lol.

The reason my last manifold/widened return plenum cracked I believe is due to poor welding quality. I had a fabrication shop try to fix both pieces but it wouldn't be cost effective. over $1k to fix and I don't think its worth a grand for a 3.5" return plenum and lower intake, after I already spend 700 on those two pieces last year.
 
all in all, that was my REAL first time at the track with this setup. I think I can still squeeze another 2 tenths out of her by adding some timing. I'm running 17.5-18 degrees of timing wot and then I have the IAC pull 6 degrees of timing above 150 degrees and pull 4 degrees of timing at 140 degrees. from what I hear, 20 degrees of timing is still considered 'safe' at 140 degrees, but I probably wont take that chance since I don't have a knock sensor hooked up yet. I go by 'feel' and sound pitch of the engine when going down the track.
 
Thanks for the advice Ken. I have ported 94 exhaust manifolds on the engine, I used a 3"-3.5" silicon coupler for the 80mm maf. I'm using BE/QH for tuning and the reason for the small throttle body is because my Pro-prod 75mm TB cracked by the TPS adjuster and I'm waiting for them to send me a replacement. still under warranty.

I also think another bottleneck is the stock 2" downtubes. I have gutted the cats but still, 2 inches seems small (I know, thats what she said), lol.

The reason my last manifold/widened return plenum cracked I believe is due to poor welding quality. I had a fabrication shop try to fix both pieces but it wouldn't be cost effective. over $1k to fix and I don't think its worth a grand for a 3.5" return plenum and lower intake, after I already spend 700 on those two pieces last year.

The ported manifolds are a good thing and you are right the 2" down tubes are to small. If you have pictures of the 3.5" return plenum, I would like to see them. I am running 3" IC tubes and a big return plenum but not that big. Always like looking at other peoples work even if they are cracked. It also sounds like your timing is real low and should be bumped up. It sounds like you have the foundation for a real wild ride so keep us tuned in

Ken
 
all in all, that was my REAL first time at the track with this setup. I think I can still squeeze another 2 tenths out of her by adding some timing. I'm running 17.5-18 degrees of timing wot and then I have the IAC pull 6 degrees of timing above 150 degrees and pull 4 degrees of timing at 140 degrees. from what I hear, 20 degrees of timing is still considered 'safe' at 140 degrees, but I probably wont take that chance since I don't have a knock sensor hooked up yet. I go by 'feel' and sound pitch of the engine when going down the track.

Good lord put some ignition in that thing. At 10psi it can probably handle 26 deg at higher rpms. Increase 2 at a time and watch your mph increases. I think the car should be trapping in the 105mph range.
 
Good lord put some ignition in that thing. At 10psi it can probably handle 26 deg at higher rpms. Increase 2 at a time and watch your mph increases. I think the car should be trapping in the 105mph range.

what about the bone stock ic? Just let the act and knock sensor pull timing like their supposed to?

Nevermind shoulda read the eariler posts.
 
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I installed my fmic today. That was a full day job. I had to re-route my piping a little bit compared to 6 months ago when I had the fmic with the widened return plenum and lower manifold.

fmic consists of hand made 3" front facing blower outlet. 3" ic piping, t-bolt clams on every silicon connector, quadrouple layer silicon connectors, massive 4"thick/20" tall/32"wide intercooler core with 3" inlet/outlet. routing back to the stock return plenum. I took daves advice and cut the return plenum in order to get the silicon coupler to attatch. i'll post up with track times and power updates
 
well... I learned one expensive lesson today. DONT FORGET TO REMOVE YOUR RAGS/TSHIRTS FROM YOUR INTERCOOLER PIPING. I stuffed a rag and a tshirt into my intercooler piping to keep bugs and debris out while I was test fitting everything. I had all the piping and connectors worked out where they fit perfect, I tightened the t-bolts and forgot all about the shirts being in the piping.. started it up, and it ran GREAT for 30 seconds. I was thinking to myself 'wow this is the best its ever ran'. as soon as I went 1/2 throttle the engine sputtered and then died. I re-started it, and it had a vicious knock. my oil pressure was good, but the knock was so damn loud. I pulled the blower, and found a torn up tshirt in the bypass valve. pulled the lower, found pieces of shirt bound up in my intake valves. pulled the heads, found bent intake valves on both heads. not sure if it might have bent a rod on number 3 cylinder because the piston does not go all the way to the block deck like the rest do.. I think this motor is ~~~~ed. all because of a damn tshirt. We'll see if I decide to build another motor or call it quits with the v6. sigh..
 
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