spring repairs

kpoindex08

Registered User
Well the other day I figured it was warm enough to start my tear down and repairs on my 94 5spd. Got it down to the block and it sure is grimy in there. I broke the trimming cover trying to break it free from the engine block. The studs were almost rusted in two, sizing them to the cover. I washed the valve covers, intake, and I think I am going to paint them the same color as the car in high heat paint. I also got the harmonic balancer cleared and swapped my reluctor ring over to it. Debating on weather or not to buy a crank OD pulley or get the factory one balanced. Engine is ready to be pulled just got to get an engine stand to put it on. While I have it out any suggestions or do it your self up grades are welcome.
Pick’s to come shortly!!
 
sounds good man keep us posted. look into set of march aluminum pulley set.
If you don't want to overdrive the blower. I have them and they are great,plus there alot lighter than stock.:D
 
pulley

I was quoted $90-150 just to balance the stock crank pulley!! Might as well get the aluminum one and be done with it. I am waiting on some one to send me picks of an OD pulley before I decide to buy it. I just bought the rotary file so I can open up my exhaust manifolds before I reinstall them.
 
$90 - $150 seems really expensive. I had my complete rotating assembly balanced fro $350 including harmonic balancer and clutch.

And I was told it should have been less but there was lots of work to be done because it was so bad.

Sean
 
Progress

Well I got the engine out and on the stand (barrower my cousins) and took off the oil pan and all that good stuff. I broke an exhaust bolt off in the cylinder head. I will need to remove that then I will be sending them off to have a valve job done. I ported my exhaust manifolds but definitely need new studs in them.
 

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rod numbering

today i noticed that all the rods and rod caps have cylinder numbers on them. do sc have these from factory or has some one rebuilt this engine?
 

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up date

Well I did not like how the heater hose came over the driver side valve cover so I moved it with some 3/4 hand bent aluminum tubing and a small 45* pre molded rubber hose. I got my timing cover in the other day and it is all cleaned up and ready for install.
 

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I would get a BHJ balancer to go with the new crank pully. Peace of mind goes a long way. If you've got the $$, I'd port the heads while they're off. Don't buy your pistons until the block is finished. That way, it's not bored .20 or .30 over & you've got stock size pistons. You'll hafta take em back to get the correct size. Same with the piston rings. The price should be the same for bore size on all 3, pistons, rings, and machine bore. I went with .20 over incase I had to rebuild my engine, there would be some meat left for me to clean the cylinder walls without worrying about over boring the block.
 
Well I did not like how the heater hose came over the driver side valve cover so I moved it with some 3/4 hand bent aluminum tubing and a small 45* pre molded rubber hose. I got my timing cover in the other day and it is all cleaned up and ready for install.
Looks good.
 
I have had the BHJ for some time now just now tearing into the engine. I don't think I am going to port the heads just yet. My plans for it now are just to freshen it up with new barrings and rings. I will have the car for the rest of my life to make it a performance car.


Tthank you kurt.
 
Well I did not like how the heater hose came over the driver side valve cover so I moved it with some 3/4 hand bent aluminum tubing and a small 45* pre molded rubber hose. I got my timing cover in the other day and it is all cleaned up and ready for install.

That is a great idea.
 
Well I did not like how the heater hose came over the driver side valve cover so I moved it with some 3/4 hand bent aluminum tubing and a small 45* pre molded rubber hose. I got my timing cover in the other day and it is all cleaned up and ready for install.

I have no idea who you are, but I really like the way you think. I'm anxious to see how this car turns out. Keep it up.
 
Thanks all. I also did not like the factory hood latch system so i fabbed my own up from a few spar parts i had laying around off some of my early 90's dodge diesel rigs. The hood release is a little harder to pull but i like the end result. picks to come soon!
 

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Last edited:
Thanks all. I also did not like the factory hood latch system so i fabbed my own up from a few spar parts i had laying around off some of my early 90's dodge diesel rigs. The hood release is a little harder to pull but i like the end result. picks to come soon!


Another good idea.
 
what tubing is that?
where did you get it?
cost?

1- 3/4" aluminum tubing came off a 2007 yamaha rhino.it was one of 2 coolant return tubes. i had to do a little bending to make it fit just right.
2- just had it laying around from another project.
3- free to me.

And thanks all again. I will keep coming up with new and interesting ways to do things and share what i learn.
 
updates

Well I did a little engineering on the pass. Side heater tube also. I Used the same type of tubing as driver side and the exact same “cut to fit” pre formed 45* rubber hose. I had to do a little hole drilling with my 1" hole saw to put the aluminum tubing through the frame of the car (tight fit!). I remember reading some where that the passenger side headers have very little room to work with so I decided to rough it the way I did. Here is some picks!

kenton
 

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