While reversing the polarity will change the direction of the spin, the pitch of the blades will not make it efficient at all.
some r made to alow you to reverse the blade on the shaft
If it is reversible, you will need to change the polarity and the fan blade direction. Just one or the other won't change the fan type to/from pusher or puller.
Even after the fan is working as intended, the radiator gaps need closed up as has been mentioned. With those two things, I bet you have a much cooler running car.
Shootouts: 2009 SS Champ | 2010 Mod1 1st Runner-up | 2011 Bracket 2nd Runner-up | 2012 Bracket Champ | 2013 | 2014 Bracket 2nd Runner-up | 2015
Black '89 5spd - 281K miles ¦ (OLD) RWHP: 301 RWTQ: 375 ¦ Best 1/4mi:12.571, MPH:111.65mph
35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
When I was having overheating issues, I switched to this Spal 16" Extreme Duty fan than moves about 30% more air than the MP FMIC supplied Spal 16" fan. It doesn't have a sealed weatherproof motor, but it sure moves a lot of air.
PS: My cooling problems ended up being a damaged radiator core, but I kept the extreme duty fan on the car.
Hey, My grandma's still kicking so I gotta be able to visit! What led you to check your radiator core and what kind of rad. did you have at the time? I bought a 16" puller spal today that moves 2360cfm or air, we'll know later tonight how my heating situation is doing.
Last edited by mywhite89; 03-20-2012 at 03:19 PM.
It was a Griffin that I had on the car since about 2005 and I never could figure out why it was running hot after installing the new motor early in 2010. Finally gave up and trailered the car up to Dave's house and when he had it off the car looking at some shroud revisions, he noticed there was no light coming through the core.
Apparently I pooched the core when the old 3.8 motor went lean while using nitrous and torched/lifted the heads, and busted all the porcelin out of the spark plugs, ruined some valves ect..ect..doing some test runs just prior to the 2009 shootout. I never thought to check the core because the top tank looked fine.
That's crazy never seen that but I know what to look for I guess.
Well I got the right fan on it. It's 80 degrees out tonight. I can pin the pedal to the floor however long I want till its topped out and I can't get this car to get past the o now. Not that i did that but..... First 90 or 100 degree day will be another test day but as soon as the temp goes to O, the fan kicks on and the temperature never goes higher than that point. On the highway it stays well below the N so that means no fans on the highway which was my main goal. Thanks a lot for the help and it sucks the answer was in front of me the whole time and I never figured it out till now. I will do those other modifications next to the radiator if I ever take the bumper off but I'm happy with everything for now.
my 90 tbird automatic the radiator has been bad for about 2 years now its clogged up ive been running without the thermosat and added an extra tranny cooler and added a tranny cooler to the one heater hose it runs cool in the winter and about a quarter on the guage in the summer when i go up pennview mountain it goes up to half on the guage which is fine by me