2011 results...

My best time was 12.51 @ 109. i was hoping for 11's, but a little too hot and humid, plus the North Carolina crew noticed I am running the wrong injecotrs and MAF, so hopefully once I replace those and get an updated tune it will at least be closer. Maybe get some cool Michigan air in October and she will be there. Thanks to all who put this event on. I twas my first year in attendance and I had a great time.

Kevin McMahan
Kevin, did I race you in the Mod 3 quarterfinals? Welcome to the site.
 
First time ever racing on a track...

14.2 @ 99.8. But my 60 foot times were 2.5 all day long...

Thanks to Mike for the tips on not spinning my tires down the whole track!

Slicks and learning how to launch for next year! :)

Also, I like the slip that shows I was going 249.2 MPH! I will hold on to that one for a while!
 
I didn't mean it wasn't belt slip, I meant that you have other problems than shiny pulleys. Look at your belt tension and pulley wrap. I'll bet most likely you are bottoming out your tensioners under load and causing the belt to go completely loose. It's a common problem people have because they don't realize how much the belt stretches under load.

Tensionser is clocked slightly I don't think I could go farther with it because when I put my new belt on it was so tight that I had to turn it with the jackshaft to even get it on but I'll take another look later tonight maybe I could post a picture and see if there is another issue
 
Tensionser is clocked slightly I don't think I could go farther with it because when I put my new belt on it was so tight that I had to turn it with the jackshaft to even get it on but I'll take another look later tonight maybe I could post a picture and see if there is another issue

if you can barely get the belt on that is best.
 
Car still needs quite a bit of work. My best run was
60ft..........1.8635
330ft.........5.6631
et@594ft....8.2525
1/8et.........8.84.02
1/8mph.......76.56
1/4et.........14.06
1/4mph......89.03

Alan
 
Tensionser is clocked slightly I don't think I could go farther with it because when I put my new belt on it was so tight that I had to turn it with the jackshaft to even get it on but I'll take another look later tonight maybe I could post a picture and see if there is another issue

Check the vee's on your belt too. The newer, smaller belt I bought was nice and tight going on, with lots of belt tension (little less wrap), but it slipped badly because the 8 "v's" were more like "u's" - therefore, there was considerably less surface area contact. Additionally, I suppose a small amount of air could get pulled into the belt-to-pulley gaps and cushion or maybe even lift the belt.

VVVVVVVV - pulley ribs

UUUUUUUU - belt ribs
 
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Go with Gates micro v belts for best results. You can get them at NAPA

David

Yep...that's what I thought I was getting at the Napa in Xenia. I ended up getting the heavy-duty green Gates belt. This was the belt with the flat ribs. The flat side of the belt is solid green... :eek: The micro v belt ribs actually come to a point, don't they?

PS: thanks for the stickers. I'll put one on my car for more HP & torque through all RPM's and the other on my helmet, which would cover the "driver mod".
 
I had no idea there still existed confusion on belts and tensioners after all these years. :eek:

1) belts don't come U shaped. They get that way from spinning/slipping, misalignment and/or old rubber stuck in the grooves.

2) Gates belts are best, and the green stripe is their HP belt. The totally green belts are their extreme duty belts. Gates makes belts for Napa and others.

3) Being flat on top of the grooves is not a bad thing, in fact it's preferred as it puts more load where it can be of the most benefit - the sides of the V.

4) Due to the large variety of pulley sizes and other variations in hardware on people's cars, it is impossible to just say xxx will work great for you. YRWV.

5) Re-clocking the tensioner is of minimal benefit. Yes, it increases tension, but if you already have MP springs, there is no need to clock the tensioner. If you DO clock the tensioner, you have be aware of the max limit of travel with respect to the belt. If the max travel of the tensioner is enough to allow the belt to touch itself when it is at full extension, then = fail. Test this by using a belt that is way too long and just pulling it tight with your hands. If the belt touches itself at this point then your re-clocking went to far and you are just going to chew up belts.

6) Pay close attention to the travel limiter on the tensioner itself. Many people make the mistake of swapping the upper and lower tensioners. The two tensioners are the same but the difference is the limiter. The bottom tensioner limits earlier than the top one. If you swap them you will find that the tensioner reaches it's travel limiter way early. Regardless, if you don't have a good 3/8" of travel to the limiter tab then it also = fail. I suspect this is your #1 problem. The tensioner is probably reaching its limit due to belt stretch and unloading the belt. As I said, the belt stretches more than you think.

7) If you have checked everything and you simply cannot get enough travel without running the belt into itself then you may have to raise the blower slightly. Due to differences in pulley combo's I have found that sometimes this is necessary with 10 and 15% combo's. With the MP 15% 10 rib kit this is mandatory.

In any case, there is no excuse for belt slip on an M90 at less than 25% OD - without blasting or modifying the pulleys. ;) Well, there is one excuse - if you have aluminum pulleys and have been slipping them for years then it is possible to have worn out the pulleys in which case blasting them won't really help.
 
I had to raise my MPX to prevent the belt from touching and used the MP Springs on the tensioner also. You should also have a good Gates belt on the jackshaft to crank pulley.
 
little more info

i have raised my blower about 1/16 of an inch with washers maybe a tad more... i used 3 3/8s washers i think?

i had a brand new gates STOCK sized belt (which is why the blower is rasied) bought from oreillys auto parts only had maybe 15miles before the shootout.

i do have an aluminum jack shaft pulley (10%) and an aluminum sc pulley(10%) which im just thinking of losing the 10 on the blower and putting a 10 on the crank instead.. but im trying to keep my ud pulleys on.....

now the 10% sc pulley is really old i bought it off another member and im sure its seen a lot of years of slippage.. which is where its slipping..

also my blower is a home ported 94 blower with mp plenum

sorry guys for changing this topic ( SHOULD I START A NEW THREAD?):eek::eek:

its raining after i got home from work today so i cant really do any checking
 
Since you have a mixed up set of pulleys, it's going to be difficult to say what combination of belts etc. you'll need to get things right. Didn't you buy a short belt from me already and you said it didn't work? Can't remember.

Driving a 94 blower 20% is probably a waste of time anyway. Drop it back to a 5% on the blower. If your JS pulley is worn, try filing down the tops of the ribs. It is possible for a pulley to be ruined if it is slipped too much. If the JS pulley is junk, then try getting a 5% JS pulley and leave the blower pulley at 10%.

I don't think running the 95 blower at 20% is going to really be the answer anyway.
 
I wanted to avoid raising my blower but I still slip with all fresh micro-v belts, MP springs, and 10-rib 15% setup. Dalke is right about the belt stretching. Next time you're under your hood and the car is running, swing open that throttle for a full second and watch your belt and tensioner. You can see the stretch.

Also, just a couple weeks ago I had my SC belt move forward an entire rib on the JS pulley and caused a super annoying pulley squeak. If I'm not mistaken, that means the belt briefly, but entirely, lifted off of the JS pulley and moved forward a rib. That one took me awhile to figure out... :eek: I thought it was my A/C delete tensioner so I slopped bearing grease over everything that applies to that. Only after that, when it still squeaked like mad did I notice my belt jumped a rib. Just a random something to look out for. ;)

Oh, so I got a bunch of 3/8 washers lying around, how many would you suggest using on each bolt to raise the blower?
 
Since you have a mixed up set of pulleys, it's going to be difficult to say what combination of belts etc. you'll need to get things right. Didn't you buy a short belt from me already and you said it didn't work? Can't remember.

Driving a 94 blower 20% is probably a waste of time anyway. Drop it back to a 5% on the blower. If your JS pulley is worn, try filing down the tops of the ribs. It is possible for a pulley to be ruined if it is slipped too much. If the JS pulley is junk, then try getting a 5% JS pulley and leave the blower pulley at 10%.

I don't think running the 95 blower at 20% is going to really be the answer anyway.

yes it did tear off that belt and destroy it... but i fixed that problem i used a pulley from another sc that aint running atm on the tensioner and it happen to be a 6 rib i guess, because it ended up cutting the belts.. figured that out right before the shootout. which fixed the issue with eating belts in 20-30 miles. i plan to check out how far the tensioner is swinging tomorrow. would be nice to be something that simple.:rolleyes:

i just noticed when i only had an early pulley and the 10% js it was slow, out the hole and on the top end.. i know you know your stuff but just wanted to say what i experienced.
Next time you're under your hood and the car is running, swing open that throttle for a full second and watch your belt and tensioner. You can see the stretch.

that's dangerous, had a teacher in high school at the auto school i went to tell me a story about how a guy was reving his old 350 motor and the belt broke and killed him because it slit his neck. if i rev my motor i make sure i stay clear of the belt area..
 
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best run before the track sucked

The track in the morning was excellent. Kil Kare had a big meet on Saturday. Best morning pass was at 11:56 AM. Ran 10.5574 @ 127.57 with a 1.4773 60' time. Off the trailer at 11:36 AM the car ran 10.5796 @ 128.32 with a 1.4609 60'. Later in the day ran a best MPH at Kil Kare with a 129.03 trap speed. But traction went away and the car would not hook, 60' suffered to a 1.5865. ET was a 10.76.

The track is still dangerously short on shutdown at those speeds, and tech is non exsistant. Also track prep or inspection after a down track issue is non exsistant. The only good thing I can say about Kil Kare is the pits are nice.

I would like to see a dfferent track in the future. Norwalk was great in 2004. Other thoughts would be Tri-state in Hamilton, Ohio, Edgewater in Cincy, or National Trails in Columbus. Just Sayin.........

Mike.....
 
Mike, you bring up a really good point. More cars are going to be faster in the future. I agree that we may have really outgrown Kilkare.....
 
13.34@ 105

On a kilkare note...... did anyone elses 60' times drop as the day went on...... I was starting to think it was my trans. But after further review of my times slips even with warmer temps and warmer engine temps all my times through the 1/8th were off. Did anyone else notice this.

And dont feel bad Kilkares lack of track prep and inspection is that way all the time guys. The guy who was in charge of track prep last two years (even though in 09 we were in Muncie) is not doing it anymore, therefore were stuck with Kilkare of the old days.
 
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