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Thread: 5.0L swap questions.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Albany, OR
    Posts
    96
    sorry to be frank, but two pages of ~~~~~~~~ and might not be anything wrong w/motor!! are you 12. sorry that was rude, but really?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    109
    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    What kind of knock is it? Is it a steady solid sounding knock or is it more of a clatter type knock? Does it change with load/rpm? What about when it is cold vs. hot? It is very common when guys rebuild these engines that they don't put enough clearance into the piston/pin so they tend to stick and knock as they rock back and forth in the bore. It's also possible if they used aftermarket pistons that they might have put them in too tight and galled a skirt. In that case it may have clearanced itself out and begun to knock. Another possibility is that if you made 230rwhp without tuning, the motor may have gone lean or got too much timing at some point and detonated pretty bad. If that happened you could have cracked a skirt, broken a ring land, or bent a rod. All of which will cause the motor to knock.
    Steady, solid, increases speed with RPM, but not intensity, louder from under the car and from behind the car. Cold quiets it up some, warm makes it louder. Wrist pins weren't sticking and don't appear to be sticking now. The block is .20 over with sealed power pistons. The cylinder walls still look good. The rods aren't hitting anything when I rotate the engine and don't look visually bent. I am not getting a misfire or compression loss.

    I don't hear any pinging at all, but I am thinking that you might be right about the detonation.

    Quote Originally Posted by moovn2vegas View Post
    sorry to be frank, but two pages of ~~~~~~~~ and might not be anything wrong w/motor!! are you 12. sorry that was rude, but really?
    Knocking must be completely normal engine operation. I guess I will throw it all back together and forget about everything.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
    Posts
    17,540
    Bearings pretty much always vary knock with load and rpm. A rod bearing will be most noticeable when lifting throttle at about 2500rpm.

    It sounds like a piston problem. You did try running the motor with all the belts removed, right?
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6

    Question 1990 SC 5spd engine swap 5.0 HELP!

    Before you go there, yes I've done a search and it has gotten me this far.

    I know I won't get much help on TCCOA which is why i came to SCCOA but haven't found any completed projects.

    When I got the car the engine was in pieces and had a split crank so I don't want to rebuild it as I already have a rebuilt 5.0l in my sport w/ HCI waiting for a donor car and this has everything I wanted for that car and then some.

    I have already re-pinned the ECU harness (just need to run the wires for the extra 2 injectors) and am wondering if I need to wire in the DLC+ and DLC- wires since this ecu was not pinned for them (those were Octane Adjustment and Fuel Pump Monitor respectfully). Also, is it possible to splice the dizzy into the EDIS wires or do I need to cut up the 5.0 body harness and transplant those wires into the SC body harness?


    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    You won't get the kind of help you need at TCCOA because those guys are starting with V8's and wont' be able to tell you how to swap it over.

    I've swapped several SC's to V8 so I do know what is involved to do it successfully while maintaining all your SC functionality.

    You'll need 5.0 Tbird, and don't get a rusted out one. Get one that is clean because the last thing you want is a bunch of corroded parts.
    I have my 91 sport to rob parts from.

    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    I recommend a 92/3 donor car but a 91 will work too. If you get a 91 then the motor mounts won't fit and you'll need to get some aftermarket ones made. Chuck can hook you up with those. Keep in mind it's not the rubber mount that you need so much as it is the brackets. You can't buy new brackets so you need the right ones or you'll need some custom.
    Can you tell me more about the difference between the motor mounts (brackets) on 91 vs 92/3?

    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    As for the wiring, there are only a couple very minor changes required to run the 5.0. You will have to change the entire engine wiring harness but fortunately for you in that year they basically plug right in. You'll need the gauge cluster from the 5.0 to make the tach work properly. If the donor is a 91 then you'll have to just use the tach with some modification because the cluster won't plug in (well it won't work properly because the pins are different on the 91 vs. the 92-3 which are the same fortunately).
    I've re-pinned the ECU harness already minus the extra 2 injectors.

    Mine is a sport cluster with fuel on bottom so I should be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    You'll have to use some of the driverside wiring harness from the 5.0 because the SC and 5.0 use different feed wiring for the IRCM. It's minor, but you have to move the EEC relay.
    Can you tell me more about this? I know the 5.0 has an EEC relay in the junction box but do i have to run wires too?

    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    You'll need all the AC lines and Power steering lines from the 5.0 car since those are in different locations on the two cars. And of course you'll want the radiator from the 5.0 car because it's totally different. I prefer to use an electric fan though because the clutch fan on the 5.0 cars sucks and it takes up a ton of room at the front of the motor and makes it a ~~~~ to do anything up there.
    Again, coming from my donor vehicle. I already upgraded to MKVII fan.


    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    I have documentation on the wiring swaps somewhere but it's been a few years so I'd have to dig it out.
    Could you please? I'll email you a formal request if that helps! I'm knee deep in this and don't want to turn back for lack of information. I'll eventually be supercharging the 5.0 or swapping in a 5.8 so any info helps!

    Thanks!

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Front Royal,VA
    Posts
    76
    You would find info on TCCOA...I thought both clubs got along. Then again seems like a lot of newbs go to facebook. I am more into the website lol.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6
    Most of those guys start with 5.0 (I'm one of them) or N/A 3.8 so it doesn't apply here aside from the motor mount issue. The wiring is definitely different so it would prove to be more help asking here especially on a thread where someone has claimed to have done it several times with wiring diagrams to boot!

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Madison, Ohio
    Posts
    17,540
    I didn't "claim" to have done it, I HAVE done it several times. However, I always used the 5.0 engine wiring harness rather than try to modify the V6 harness so I'm not much help to you. Sorry about the diagrams though. It was many years ago and several computers crashes which means I don't actually have the diagrams anymore. When I originally did it I used the Ford factory wiring diagrams which I got off Ebay to trace down individual wires.

    Since I used the Sport 5.0 engine wiring harness the only things I had to wire in or repin where the underhood fuse box and the dash/fuel pump wiring connectors in the dash. All the engine stuff was plug and play.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for replying! I actually am using the 5.0l sport engine harness but am keeping the body harness on the SC (which actually has the edis integrated into it) that goes into the firewall and down to the ECU. The engine harness plugs into that. The only thing I don't know how to do is wire in the dizzy because the SC didn't have one.

    Now I have more information though! Had no idea I had to redo the fuel pump relay under the dash but that makes sense! Can you describe what you did? Also, more specifically, where do the wires run to/from for the eec relay in the fuse panel?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6
    Oh! And why exactly are the 91 motor mounts not able to he used? You said they somewhat different than the 92/3?

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    231
    Welcome to the forum !! I'm in Spokane Valley. Don't know any details of doing this swap but could help if needed.
    89 and 95 SC's in the driveway.
    Creighton
    cjs@lost-coast-designs.com

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6

    Thumbs up

    Awesome! Thanks Creighton! I've seen that name elsewhere. Are you on TCCOA or the FB pages?

    I acquired this roller with trans in a recent purchase of another SC (93 auto) that is cherry but needs paint (have the paint already) and am planning on making a 3.8 SC swap into my 94 mustang as soon as I get this 5.0L installed in the bird.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    231
    Yep on both of those. Did you get the Green and White pair that was on CL? Would be interested in any parts you don't need. Send me an email. Tried to PM you but think 10 posts are required before that will work. Glad to have someone local.
    Creighton
    Last edited by Creighton; 05-30-2017 at 06:48 PM.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    6

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Creighton View Post
    Yep on both of those. Did you get the Green and White pair that was on CL? Would be interested in any parts you don't need. Send me an email. Tried to PM you but think 10 posts are required before that will work. Glad to have someone local.
    Creighton
    I did! I was watching them for a couple months slowly drop in price from the $2500 he originally wanted. Finally pulled the trigger after they got down around $1500. Couldn't pass it up! The interior on both is flawless and the bodywork was top notch on the green one. It runs perfectly and OD still works!

    I also picked up that 94 SC for $500 a few months ago. That's what I'm dropping in my 94 convertible. The paint is too far gone and the interior is pretty thrashed. It has some electrical gremlins too but I don't think they affect the engine harness since it runs and drives.

    I may be interested in parting with an entire engine with harness minus crank and s/c as well as a 94 roller. I'll email you and since you asked you'll get first crack.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    231
    Got the email. Outstanding. Need a 94/95 engine for the 95. Found one in OH but logistics are hard.
    I watched those two and the 94. Hoped when they were gone off CL hadn't been scraped.
    Pretty nice 90 SC in Post Falls. I drag home a 3rd one in the doghouse for a very long time :-). Been there many times though. Haven't heard back from seller.
    Topic back on track.
    Creighton

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