How to disconnect transmission lines from radiator?

275hptbirdsc

Registered User
Im in the middle of replacing my radiator and ive got everything done but the transmission lines out. Attemping to use a wrench and turn it seems to work but it ends up turning the entire line all the way to under the engine and that doesnt look like the right way to do it. I also tried to hold the line with another wrench and turn but that just damages the line. Ive done a good hour or so searching on here and online and I cant find the answer, all I come up with is cutting the rubber part and replacing it and I REALLY dont want to do that since ive had bad luck doing that with other cars.
 
The transmission line has a flare fitting with a backup nut. That nut screws into an adapter fitting and presses the flare against that fitting, creating a seal. That adapter fitting screws into the radiator.

You should be able to hold the adapter with one wrench and turn the fitting nut out with a second wrench.

If that isn't working, then you may have a situation where the fitting is rusted to the tube. If that is the case, you can try to loosen it with some penetrating oil and heat. If that doesn't work, the best thing to do is to cut the rubber hose and replace the rubber hose and the short piece of hard line that attaches to the adapter fitting. (Sorry!)
 
The transmission line has a flare fitting with a backup nut. That nut screws into an adapter fitting and presses the flare against that fitting, creating a seal. That adapter fitting screws into the radiator.

You should be able to hold the adapter with one wrench and turn the fitting nut out with a second wrench.

If that isn't working, then you may have a situation where the fitting is rusted to the tube. If that is the case, you can try to loosen it with some penetrating oil and heat. If that doesn't work, the best thing to do is to cut the rubber hose and replace the rubber hose and the short piece of hard line that attaches to the adapter fitting. (Sorry!)

Yea I tried the whole two wrench thing and it just ended up twisting the hard line which is somthing I dont need. Im just gonna have to bite the bullet and cut it. Would a rubber hose double clamped on each end be a safe enough replacement for the original rubber section?
 
Yea I tried the whole two wrench thing and it just ended up twisting the hard line which is somthing I dont need. Im just gonna have to bite the bullet and cut it. Would a rubber hose double clamped on each end be a safe enough replacement for the original rubber section?

That is exactly how the dealer fixed mine (except used single clamps) under warranty:rolleyes: I couldn't believe that the dealer didn't install a new line since I was still had plenty of time/miles left on my warranty.
 
Replaced with hose

did on all s/c ' s ive owned to prevent leakage always worked fine i slid the new hose on about 2 inches over metal lines and used two clamps for peace of mind.... try to cut the fitting off the lines to retain a nipple of sort
 
Hose will hold up OK if you don't bend it past about 30 degrees. I have a loop of about 10" line that I used to insert an inline filter. Had to use that because the first time the hose got stressed and cracked where I had bent it too much.
 
If they get rusted really bad this happens. Usually pb blaster will fix it. If the line twisted it could split. Ford uses a special nut on the end of the line. You can change the fitting in the radiator and install conventional flare nuts on the lines.
Alan
 
I got one of their Rads. The filler neck leaks, i used a stant lev-r-vent cap which stops it, some what, when i contacted CS they gave me a crazy cap that didnt even fit, instead of trying to help, they kept saying, just send it back, just send it back. Its ok, you can see you get what you pay for but it does work, just make sure you have a good cap.
 
I got it from here http://www.shepherdautoparts.com/all_aluminum_radiator/ford/thunderbird/1989/3.8l_v6_232.html

Looks like they raised the price though, i got it for 110 shipped.

That looks like the same one I found yesterday at http://www.genesisautoparts.com/product/all24526X1046aa.htm for $136.26 - $15 coupon (GAPCJ15) = $121.26

PN's look very similar
24526SAP1046AA shepard part number
24526X1046AA genesis part number

These radiators do not come with the intercooler bracket. How hard is it to transfer the bracket over in a 1990? Are the bolted on or welded to the OEM rad?

Kyle
 
That looks like the same one I found yesterday at http://www.genesisautoparts.com/product/all24526X1046aa.htm for $136.26 - $15 coupon (GAPCJ15) = $121.26

PN's look very similar
24526SAP1046AA shepard part number
24526X1046AA genesis part number

These radiators do not come with the intercooler bracket. How hard is it to transfer the bracket over in a 1990? Are the bolted on or welded to the OEM rad?

Kyle

It is part of the casting.
 
My 1990 has the intercooler bracket just soldered on, it seems. One of the sides is loose already. So I would expect that you could desolder it from the OEM radiator and then bolt it to the new one ... assuming that the new one has a spot for it to bolt in.

I got a replacement radiator from Radiators Express, with the SCCoA coupon code. It's similar to the original. The intercooler bracket was included, but it bolts on. I think that one is India-made and distributed by Spectra.
 
I realize that the one from RadExpress is a drop in replacement, but it lists for $290 on their website. That is more than double the price of the 1 core aluminum rad from genesisautoparts. Is the price difference worth the hassle of not having to deal with swaping over the intercooler bracket?
 
Uh, I don't know. That's sort of up to you, yes? ;)

If there are any mounting brackets at all on the replacement radiator, I wouldn't worry about desoldering the intercooler bracket, drilling it, and mounting it. That sounds pretty easy.

But if the aluminum radiator has no spots to bolt the intercooler bracket TO, then I would probably buy the OEM replacement.

They really did raise the price on that thing. I think I paid a little over $200. (Maybe the Fed's "quantitative easing" is working? Ha ha.)
 
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