Power steering problem

Thanks for the info. I've replaced the alternator a couple times, so the upper IC tube and I are old pals at this point :)
 
Fenco shows 4 PS pump options.

SP16259 wo/Res 3.8L 6 Cyl V 232cid w/Variable Assist Power Steering
SP16259 wo/Res 3.8L 6 Cyl V 232cid Exc. Variable Assist Power Steering
SP16383 w/Res 3.8L 6 Cyl V 232cid Exc. Variable Assist Power Steering
SP16386 w/Res 3.8L 6 Cyl V 232cid w/Variable Assist Power Steering

So, if I buy without reservoir, it's the same PS pump, SP16259

But, if I buy with reservoir, I have 2 choices

That makes no sense. Is the variable assist stuff in the reservoir?

No. Its the fitting on the side of the pump, but the pump has to HAVE a place for that fitting. And the reservoir is just the plastic case. I'd get the SP16386.
 
I ordered the 16386, it'll be here in the morning.

I'll tear down tonight, and if I have time, put the new water pump on. Can put the new PS pump on tomorrow.
 
Be super careful of the top 2 studs that go into the timing cover. ive had 3 snap on my car and 1 snap on a customers car. Not fun trying to get them out. Heat them up if need be. spray it down real good with pb before you even start and again when your ready to take them off. Good luck man.
 
Be super careful of the top 2 studs that go into the timing cover. ive had 3 snap on my car and 1 snap on a customers car. Not fun trying to get them out. Heat them up if need be. spray it down real good with pb before you even start and again when your ready to take them off. Good luck man.

What he said X2. I'll also give 'em a couple good raps on the end with a hammer to break any oxidation free
Adam
 
What's the best way to get all the old PS fluid out? Anybody got a trick or tip?

I believe that you can disconnect the hoses at the PS cooler, which is mounted behind the bumper on the passenger side, and let a lot of it drain out. Then you can turn the pump by hand to pump out a lot of the remainder.
 
Just did a rack on a mustang, the destructions said just that, remove low press side put in a container let drain, fill resevoir with new fluid and run til it comes out clear. Wastes a quart of fluid maybe, but its cheep

Adam
 
So, I removed the intercooler and radiator
Put the puller on the pulley

And the puller actually ripped a chunk of the 'ledge' on the front of the pulley off. It's tight on the shaft, and as the big screw is turned with a 3/4 socket, it tries to pull the pulley off, but just can't, so it rips a piece off the ledge.

So, what's the best way to proceed?

Is the pulley frozen on the shaft? Would the PB blaster help this? Or am I just screwed?
 
pully

make sure your using pully puller correctly so ypur not working against your self
it will confuse the heck out of ya
untill a bell goes off in your head ''oh yeah''.
 
Well, i had one pully that i COULD NOT get off for anything, what i ended up having to do, to return the other as a core, was remove the whole acc bracket, and cut the PS pulley off with a die grinder, then used a 3 jaw, or the PS pulley puller with the 2 arms and the centerbolt, cant remember and pulled it off the shaft from the back, because that "ledge" broke apart.I had another pulley laying around, but i would try heating/getting a good grip on it with the tool...By the way, What kind of removal tool are you using? the clamshell type? or the arm puller type?
 
No pics of it online, but Advance Auto sold it to me, Autocraft AC638

It looks pretty similar to this:

pittsburgh-automotive-pulley-puller.jpg


I verified the ram goes only on the shaft of the pump, so I'm not pulling the pulley against itself

If I have to trash this pulley to get it off, can anyone tell me where I might find another and what I'd expect to spend? Is this a fairly common ford part, or is it like everything else I end up needing for this car, used only on the 94 and 95 SC? :)

I can go the heat route if I have to.. I have a berns o matic propane torch.
 
Is there any way to remove the PS pump with pulley attached? Remove the 2 bolts on the bracket attached to the water pump and perhaps a few other items and remove it as an assembly? Would feel a little better about trying to remove the pulley with more drastic measures with the pump out of the car :)
 
The problem is that you have the wrong style puller. First off, I don't see any provision to reinstall the pulley. That would have caused you a problem later.

Heat would help, but I think a two-jaw puller will have a hard time getting it done without damage. The proper puller has a split collar that goes around the entire "ledge", and is retained by a ring that slips over both parts.

This is what you want (or something like this):
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Kit-Autocraft_9020128-P_N3491_T|GRP2083_____

If your location is still current (Columbus, Indiana), then you may be in luck. I checked on Advance's website, and 3 local stores appear to have it in stock.
 
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The new pump came with a tool to reinstall the pulley. Has a hardened bolt that threads into the center of the pump shaft, and uses a washer and nut to tighten it down.

The tool you recommend is in stock, I can order one and go pick it up after I get off work.

If I've damaged the lip on the old pulley, will you think that tool will still remove it?
 
Just an update

Can't get the puller til 5 PM, so I'm working on what I can.

So far, all bolts/studs out of the water pump except the 2 bottom ones.

I made a mistake, removed the belt before I loosened then 4 bolts holding the water pump pulley on. But I managed to get those free using 2 3/8 drive ratchets with appropriate sockets to crack 3 loose, then a pry bar across 2 of the bolts to keep it from spinning while I removed the 4th.

I pulled all 3 belts (new last year) and the 2 idlers I haven't replaced are still spinning freely, but one is making a hell of a lot of noise, so I'm going to replace both of those while I'm at it. I ordered them from advance with the PS pump, and UPS will deliver them tomorrow per the tracking.

I have the short rubber hose as well as 2 new radiator hoses. Will replace all 3 hoses while it's apart. The original lower has a spring in it, the replacement doesn't - should I try to transfer it?

Do I need to use any sort of sealant on any of the bolts? I remember years ago, the last time I changed a water pump, the friend helping me had me coat one of them in something because it passed through the water jet, or something named similarly.

Do I need to use any rtv sealant on the new water pump gasket when I install it? How tight should I make the bolts?

I need to clean up all the fasteners tonight. A lot of them have various types of corrosion on the threads. I have a bench grinder with a wire wheel, an ultrasonic cleaner, and a shell casing tumbler. Yeah, it sounds strange, but I restore pinball machines, and the tumbler is used to clean up fasteners of all types with crushed walnut shells. Makes them look like new in many cases.
 
I also found my box of SC parts I have collected over the last few years to replace.

The lower line feeding into the water pump is pretty well stuck to the pump. The small upper line is stuck as well, but I have a replacement for that. Since the lower one has a fitting on it that I can't replace myself, so I'm gonna have to find some way to remove the line in one piece so I can reuse it.

Also found a new thermostat and gasket. Gonna replace that while I've got the car apart.
 
I think the puller will still work for you, as long as the lip on the pulley is mostly intact.

Yes, swap the spring to the new lower radiator hose. It helps to keep it from collapsing under the suction of the water pump.

You may need to use some sealant on the pump bolts ... I don't recall. My shop manual is not handy at the moment. You might have to pick up a Haynes manual while you are at Advance.

I don't think you need sealant on the water pump gasket, but some RTV could be good ... and certainly helps keep it in place while you are getting the fasteners lined up!

The little coolant hose ... are you talking about the aluminum piece that is crimped over the end of the rubber hose? If so, that is nothing major. You can cut it off with tin snips or a saw and just replace it with a hose clamp. Or you can buy the expensive tool and make your own replacement if you are so inclined. (I wasn't!)

Make sure you get the SC-specific thermostat gasket with a little hole in the upper corner. You can install the non-SC one, but it will leak ... badly.
 
The puller worked! Man, that took a bunch of force! The sounds reminded me of getting a tooth pulled!

I have a Haynes manual. It's OK I guess. The only problem I have with it is the instructions aren't SC specific, so sometimes you get a picture of a 5.0 or 4.6.

Had to remove the alternator to try and get the PS pump out. Ran out of daylight. It looks like I may have to remove the overflow tank for the radiator as well to get the PS pump out.

The weather forecast for tomorrow doesn't look real good. I'll probably have to pick back up on Friday, weather permitting.

Thanks for all the help!
 
The pic you posted is the 2 arm deal that I tried one time. It worked good to get the cut pulley shaft of. I can post torque values around 10
 
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