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Thread: Thermostat which one to use

  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Glendale Heights IL
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    245
    As I mentioned before, I used a 160 t-stat and changed my fan temps to come on at 195 and off at 165 but that was on my 94 lx so I had a place to put the extra sensor. With the SC I don't have anywhere to put it as of yet but when I did it on my 94 lx it worked fantastic. So when I finally get this figured out I will post my results. The kit I am using the fan temps are adjustable so it is where you want it.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Phildelphia, PA 19030
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    2,075

    Cool Made my own !!!

    REMOVED THE SPRING AND GUTS FROM STAT USED 1 S.S. 5/8 WASHER TO SLOW FLOW NEVER HEATS UP OTHER THAT TO N ON NORM WORKS FOR ME !!!,

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Sunny California
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    154
    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderRoad View Post
    REMOVED THE SPRING AND GUTS FROM STAT USED 1 S.S. 5/8 WASHER TO SLOW FLOW NEVER HEATS UP OTHER THAT TO N ON NORM WORKS FOR ME !!!,
    Is there anything wrong with removing the tstat completly?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Bossier City, LA
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDad View Post
    Is there anything wrong with removing the tstat completly?
    There can be.

    Without SOME restriction, it's possible the water won't sit in spots long enough, so the motor ends up overheating with cold water in it.

    So, no, I wouldn't remove it completely.

    RwP

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Oregon 97220
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    I use a 195 w 1/16" hole and change fan cycle to where I like it.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    al.
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    434

    not liking the stock stat

    letting the car do what it wants with the stock thermo in i just dont like it once its reaches strait up position on the guage it stays there or moves to the right especially at highway speeds. at which point i have to flip the # 14 switch. with the 180 it would at least return to the "n" at times and without thermo completely i felt like i could actually control temps so ive got to say its my radiator even though ita a newer aluminium rad.. its just not able to keep the temps down with out fan interaction be it manually or other

    now my w/p is fairly new but i read somewhere the aftermarket pumps from advance and such have less impeller action is this true ? weak flow could likely factor in as well i figure especially at 60/70/80 speeds.....

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Manchester, NH
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    You should never run without a thermostat. Without it the water never has a chance to sit in the radiator long enough to cool down. It will eventually overheat. Let's say your radiator is large enough to deal with it and you don't overheat then you end up dealing with the issue of open loop. If the engine never reaches operating temperature then the system never gets to a closed loop status. Either way running without a thermostat is bad news. IMO.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    St. Charles, MO
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90sc35thann View Post
    You should never run without a thermostat. Without it the water never has a chance to sit in the radiator long enough to cool down. It will eventually overheat. Let's say your radiator is large enough to deal with it and you don't overheat then you end up dealing with the issue of open loop. If the engine never reaches operating temperature then the system never gets to a closed loop status. Either way running without a thermostat is bad news. IMO.
    I thought the open loop to closed loop deal was time based, and engine temp has no impact. BTW, I use a high flow 180 thermostat and fans are set to come on at 188. Coolant temps pretty much stay in the 180s no matter how hot or cold it is outside.

    David
    Last edited by David Neibert; 05-01-2012 at 09:07 AM.
    91 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple........10.92 @ 126.70
    93 SC AOD 347 Turbo.................10.04 @ 138.99
    My Garage

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Chesapeake, VA
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    I'm fairly sure closed loop is engine temp based.
    The thermostat provides a restriction to allow heat to transfer from the engine to the water.

    OBD 2 code P0125 indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop
    Last edited by Roadhawg; 05-01-2012 at 09:18 AM.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
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    Manchester, NH
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    The thermostat also allows restriction to transfer heat from the radiator to the ambient air. Closed loop is definitely affected by temperature.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by anlo View Post
    letting the car do what it wants with the stock thermo in i just dont like it once its reaches strait up position on the guage it stays there or moves to the right especially at highway speeds. at which point i have to flip the # 14 switch. with the 180 it would at least return to the "n" at times and without thermo completely i felt like i could actually control temps so ive got to say its my radiator even though ita a newer aluminium rad.. its just not able to keep the temps down with out fan interaction be it manually or other
    I don't have a problem in texas heat even with A/C, but theres a couple of things to be aware of:

    1. That small little air diverter below the bumper is crucial. Its the difference between overheating and not. It needs to be angled forward so that air gets shoved up and thru the radiator.

    2. And that gap btwn the bottom of the radiator and the frame... lets precious cooling air go by, rather than thru the core. I close it with a flap of old flexible sheet vinyl cut to shape.

    Items 1 and 2 are the difference between my black car (with a stock rad) running at the track and not overheating. And yes, I need a better rad for that purpose.
    Red 90 SC/AOD- Primary DD. Restored.
    Black 90 SC/5 Spd- 2nd DD Restored.
    White 90 SC/AOD- w/290,000.. retired

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    New Albany, IN
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    If you have a tuner (QH, etc), you can change the closed loop "on" temperature setting too. That's another reason I always say to stick with the stock t'stat if you don't have a tuner or a stand-alone fan turn-on system. Assuming a mostly stock car, if your cooling system is up to snuff, it should be able to handle the heat. When you start experimenting with lower t-stats, no t-stat, or putting a gerbil in the housing, you might find a combo that works, but it seems like most folks end up making things worse by changing t'stat temps without changing fan settings.

    It can be frustrating, but if your car is overheating with a new stock thermostat, then there is something else that needs fixed.
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: 2009 SS Champ | 2010 Mod1 1st Runner-up | 2011 Bracket 2nd Runner-up | 2012 Bracket Champ | 2013 Bracket LOSER
    Black '89 5spd - 270K miles RWHP: 301 RWTQ: 375 Best 1/4mi:13.011, MPH:107.18mph
    Red '93 Auto
    White '89 5spd
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  13. #28
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    Apr 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrFishbone View Post
    If you have a tuner (QH, etc), you can change the closed loop "on" temperature setting too. That's another reason I always say to stick with the stock t'stat if you don't have a tuner or a stand-alone fan turn-on system. Assuming a mostly stock car, if your cooling system is up to snuff, it should be able to handle the heat. When you start experimenting with lower t-stats, no t-stat, or putting a gerbil in the housing, you might find a combo that works, but it seems like most folks end up making things worse by changing t'stat temps without changing fan settings.

    It can be frustrating, but if your car is overheating with a new stock thermostat, then there is something else that needs fixed.
    Matt,

    What is the stock "closed loop on" temp setting ?

    David
    91 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple........10.92 @ 126.70
    93 SC AOD 347 Turbo.................10.04 @ 138.99
    My Garage

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Manchester, NH
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    2,064
    I believe it is around 140 degrees.

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