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Thread: Swapping SC 3.8 into a 74 maverick

  1. #1
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    Swapping SC 3.8 into a 74 maverick

    Hey,
    Not sure how often this is done. I have decided to pull my 302 out of my 74 maverick 2 door, and install a 3.8 from a 91 SC. Has anyone done something like this before on here?

  2. #2
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    Is it a grabber? A maverick would have a ton of room and are you planning on an auto or 5 speed
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  3. #3
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    I love the Maverick, finding one in good shape is getting harder though. What tranny are you planning? What gears are stock in that car? It's a solid axle yes?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by slick59 View Post
    I love the Maverick, finding one in good shape is getting harder though. What tranny are you planning? What gears are stock in that car? It's a solid axle yes?
    I believe those cars came with an 8 inch ford differential (in v8 form). Posi units for those are very tough to come by. A 9 inch assembly for that car would be a custom application.

    The front of the engine compartment is fairly roomy however there isn't a ton of space between the shock towers. That coil over upper control arm design was not an ideal setup.

    The aod would probably work with a driveshaft mod. As hot as our engines run I would not want to give up overdrive.

    http://www.google.com/search?q=ford+...G17YjqvbeEhQM:

    I like the maverick but a stock 302 was tight in there. It's very narrow between those shock towers.

  5. #5
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    Should be doable, the Maverick engine bay is similar to early Mustangs. You will have to find or fabricate something for a front sump oil pan I believe, since most of the 3.8 pans are rear sump, other than the oddball early 80s F-100 trucks that had a 3.8 for a couple of years.


    cheers
    Ed

  6. #6
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    I bought it as my first car 13 years ago, pulled the straight 6 out and put in the 302 with a 3spd. Had 3.0 gears in the 8", then 3.25, now 3.55, planning on a mini spool. I had it painted as it got backed into, but all in all is a very clean car with less than 100k miles yet.

    I'm gonna use the AOD from the SC. the car has no PS or Pwr Brakes so it was a pain in the rear to drive as a stick too.

    The biggest issue I think I'll face is the belt routing or finding space for the stock pulley locations. I only need an alternator for accesories. Also I think I'll need to either put an intercooler in the fender fwd of the tire, or get real creative with the tubing.

    I have the motor pulled and I have all the wiring figured out (2 wires at the relay controller and then ground)


    Questions:
    Is there a universal tubing piece for the top of the blower, VS. cutting the OE one up for universal tubing?

    What is the best cam to run in these? THis is most likely the only engine mod I will do prior to instal, besides all new gaskets.

    Is there any way to extend the shaft on the blower to get the pulley out further?

    Are the Stock IRS set ups worth anything? I'm gonna scrap the donor car soon and it's all rusted in there. it has the 3.27 LS gears I think (dont be mad, the car sat outside for years and housed hundreds of mice. Plus it is a rust bucket)

  7. #7
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    Oh-yeah, the mavericks engine bay is wide open under the pan, no x-members, so the stock pan should work.

  8. #8
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    I own a maverick that I'm nearly done restoring. I would love to have install my spare sc motor into but its just not cost effective. Remember that the rear sump of the 3.8 pan will sit right onto of the steering assembly. I think if you do a pinto front rack could get the 3.8 in.

  9. #9
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    Take the nut off the blower top then you can use a silicone coupler 2.75" to mount any IC pipes you want. I want to say its left hand thread. Heat it up good too to release the thread locker.
    ~Chris
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  10. #10
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    pan

    I forgot all about the steering. Do you know for sure if a 82/83 f100 pan is a front sump? I cant find any pics of one.

  11. #11
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    front sump will not work either, you'll hit the crossmember bar. You'll need sumpless pan or rework the front end.

  12. #12
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    I bought a steel pan, cut it in half, and welded/formed it back together. It fits perfect. Now I need to modify some full length headers and it'll be ready!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fomoco74mav View Post
    I bought a steel pan, cut it in half, and welded/formed it back together. It fits perfect. Now I need to modify some full length headers and it'll be ready!
    ??? So you cut the sump down? How much did you take off? any pictures?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fomoco74mav View Post
    I bought a steel pan, cut it in half, and welded/formed it back together. It fits perfect. Now I need to modify some full length headers and it'll be ready!
    What did you do with the oil pump sump/screen itself? Nevermind the pan. Doesn't the sump/screen fit way down into the pan? I suppose that wouldn't be too hard to modify. Just curious. Would love to see some pics.

    Back in the day Ford used to do things that confused me. Like when they moved the dipstick tube on the 302 from the timing cover to the block back in 1979. Anywho.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90sc35thann View Post
    What did you do with the oil pump sump/screen itself? Nevermind the pan. Doesn't the sump/screen fit way down into the pan? I suppose that wouldn't be too hard to modify. Just curious. Would love to see some pics.

    Back in the day Ford used to do things that confused me. Like when they moved the dipstick tube on the 302 from the timing cover to the block back in 1979. Anywho.
    I think the dip stick was relocated because the sump went from the front to.the back. A dip stick in the timing cover is worthless if its a rear sump pan.

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