Mid length vs. long tube headers for lowered SC

I have an early set of long tube headers and the paaenger side header hangs down quite a bit lower than the drivers side. I plan on having it cut and bent up a little for road clearance issues with a lowered car and add v band clamps. Also if anyone has a better option than felpro exhaust gaskets please chim in lol
 
mywhite89 said:
I had the same problem with the kooks midlength. Bill told me, the new midlengths he offers are stainless steel instead of mild steel. Stainless is much stronger and wont deform. I probably over tightend mine because they were leaking, and eventually would do the same thing to stainless(maybe).

I still say the best connection is to use are v-band connections. They work great and absolutely wont leak. Make sure you use a high quality set, i've seen some of the cheaper thin-walled ones break over time. Worst thing that can happen is breaking the clamp, as long as you can find he correct replacement your fine. I found that to be a bit of an issue without buying a new kit though

chris
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V-bands are expensive. Quality versions are around $50 each. And yes, they can leak. They can be very difficult to get to line up too. Sucks when you try to take one off after a couple years in a northern climate and the t-bolt breaks.
 
XR7 Dave said:
I like the 3 bolt flanges. They are cheap and if you use a dead soft aluminum gasket, they don't leak. V-bands have their own issues and are not perfect solutions either.
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+1

Kook's should never, ever, make a ball and socket again.
 
DLF said:
+1

Kook's should never, ever, make a ball and socket again.
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the metal is way to thin for a ball and socket. The Bassani headers I have for my stang as well as almost any other shorty or long tube (BBK MAC) header I have ever used never had this problem. Just a VERY poor design and Im surprised they still make them that way.
 
I've used a small ball peen hammer on a few occasions to reshape the ball on my kooks midlengths. The metal is thin and deforms easily, but you can just bend it back where you want it. And it's usually pretty easy to see where you need to smack the connection.
 
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