Operation 10.0

Just a little grinding on the bottom of the TB flange and the TB. But I think I also have to extend the TB flange forward. I'm probably 1/2" from being all the way back and the Accel cable is getting cramped.

Those are the BBK covers(edit...DUH you can see that:rolleyes:). Not sure if I will use them. They look good but are heavy. If I do use them I will want to put some baffling in them for the PCV.
 
Chris, if those valve covers are an issue and you need someone to hold onto them for you I'm your guy:D
 
Made some more room at the back.
 

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Wow, looks closer to the FW than I thought for the throttle cable clearance. I say massage that FW a bit. Don't mess up the paint on the plenum! :p
 
Love that huge inlet plenum. Just wondering why there aren't any provisions for mounting the bypass valve ?

David

Centrifugal style blow off with a blow thru MAF. Blow off before the IC to keep some heat out of it. Cleans up the rear of the blower too.
 
Depowered a rack today. We'll see how much effort it takes to turn. But it sure beats buying a manual rack, this one was free (an old leaky one) so just an hour of labor or so and one new inner rod end.

Here is a decent write up on the process. http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1 The guts to the bird rack are basically the same.

First pic is the passenger side seal bushing that has a C clip holding it in. I already removed the clip forgot to take a pic of it but looks like the clip in 2nd pic.

2nd pic is the C clip holding the input shaft in. This clip is located below a dust seal like in the miata pic. You need to pound a small screw driver between the dust seal and housing and pry it out.

3rd 4th and 5th pics are the center seal that you cut out to equalize the pressures in the rack. I cut 2 slots 180* from each other then hammered a chisel in one side to crack it. The pry it oped with a screw driver.
 

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power racks vs manual racks usually differ in gear ratio such that when manually run it isn't as hard to turn as a power rack with no power. Essentially so that it takes more turns of the steering wheel to move the front wheels the same distance as the power rack. For a drag car that may be perfectly fine.
 
The black one with red stripes.

Dropped this ballast out tonight.:cool: Somewhere between 30-40 lbs.

Wait, your car had a hitch too? lol Is that the pinion brace that SCP sells or where did you get it? Im dropping an aluminum pumpkin with 3.73 and torsen diff to get built for the silver car this week, should I think about this and the bushings like what you have? I was just going to put it in with new stock bushings but what would you recommend?
 
Centrifugal style blow off with a blow thru MAF. Blow off before the IC to keep some heat out of it. Cleans up the rear of the blower too.

Won't that generate a lot more load from the blower when driving it around not in boost. I remember when Dave Dalke installed a twin screw blower without a bypass valve on one of his cars and drove it from OH to St. Louis, and not having the bypass was causing the engine to overheat in traffic. Not sure if the running hot deal was from high air charge temps throwing heat into the radiator from the IC or just the increased load on the motor.

Perhaps Dave can chime in, to provide some info.

David
 
Guess we'll find out. Didn't think of it that way. Guess I should move the TB after the blower then. Then no restriction to the blower inlet....hum.
 
Wait, your car had a hitch too? lol Is that the pinion brace that SCP sells or where did you get it? Im dropping an aluminum pumpkin with 3.73 and torsen diff to get built for the silver car this week, should I think about this and the bushings like what you have? I was just going to put it in with new stock bushings but what would you recommend?

I would at least get the solid aluminum dif mounts. You will probably smoosh the the stockers.
 
Guess we'll find out. Didn't think of it that way. Guess I should move the TB after the blower then. Then no restriction to the blower inlet....hum.


Don't be silly.

PS. Overheating on SWB was unrelated to the blower.
 
Don't be silly.

PS. Overheating on SWB was unrelated to the blower.

Good to hear.

Now onto the next thing. Enough belt wrap on the crank pulley? Maybe I can incorporate an idler between the crank and alt.
 

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