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Thread: Best Remedy For an SC that's a Bit Rusty..

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    69

    Best Remedy For an SC that's a Bit Rusty..

    Hey, I got my first SuperCoupe a few weeks back and am eager to bring it back to the best possible condition. Unfortunatly, it has spent much of its life in the ''rust-belt'' it appears to have been driven when ice was on the roads (and unfortunatly salt also) and was put away in a warm garage were the ice melted and progressed its destruction. I have read, online, several ways to alleviate the situation. Here are a couple: One is: spread oil or some similar substance on the rusty surfaces; The other: Sandblast and paint the rusty areas. The latter sounds better for the long run possibly. From what I've read, rust is dubbed as the "cancer for cars" once it's there, it spreads, so the best thing to do is start as soon as possible.

    What would you do/what have you done for this?

    Another thing, the thin metal that originally held the bottom of the side-skirts is almost gone. This has been really concerning me, I hope there is a solution. I thought of having a new piece made and welded to the bottom to replicate what would have been there from the factory. From what I see, it looks like a thinner piece of metal shaped like a capital "L" running down the side-skirt below the door, and smaller piece extending behind the door and infront of the rear wheel.

    What would you do/what have you done for this?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Manchester, NH
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    Pics would be helpful so that we can see the rusty areas you describe. I would never recommend spreading a thin coat of oil to remedy a rusty situation. Sand blasting and painting would work but sometime by the time you sand blast the rust away most of the metal is gone with it. I would recommend cleaning the affected areas real well and using POR-15, then covering in a primer and painting. POR-15 is a great product.


    http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/


    This stuff is no joke.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    69
    Quote Originally Posted by 90sc35thann View Post
    Pics would be helpful so that we can see the rusty areas you describe. I would never recommend spreading a thin coat of oil to remedy a rusty situation. Sand blasting and painting would work but sometime by the time you sand blast the rust away most of the metal is gone with it. I would recommend cleaning the affected areas real well and using POR-15, then covering in a primer and painting. POR-15 is a great product.


    http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/


    This stuff is no joke.
    Ok, thanks for the info! I'll take pictures asap

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Herrin Illinois
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    3,383
    I have a similar product that is used by Ford called converter coat. It actually converts rust back to a hard metal undercoat once the loose stuff is removed. It is a really good product I used alot of it restoring my 79 f150
    MEMBER #2488 best rwhp 504 485 torque
    2016 shootout Best of show award
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    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage.p...e_view&id=7152

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Norcross, GA
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    3,301
    I've used Extend Rust Treatment before with good success. However, unless you cut the rusted areas out it will eventually start rusting again.
    90 5spd, best ever E.T. 12.250
    best ever 1/4mi speed 112.89 mph
    Current dyno tune 383.54 rwhp 418.88 rwt

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    920

    Some pictures of my low budget repairs

    Pressure treated 2x6 fitted into rusty channel in order to provide mount point for ground effects.


    This shot of the drivers side after doing the same thing as in the image above.


    At some point you have to accept you can't restore it, but you can still use it and make it presentable for the time you will continue to drive it. Thank Ford and the engineers who designed the SC ground effects cause they can cover up a multitude of sins!

    For new hangers I simply buy a 1/8th X 1" strip of aluminum and sheet metal screw it to wherever I have solid rocker, I used washers for standoffs so the top edge of the plastic GFX will have a new purchase from which to hang!
    Last edited by Plat0ribs; 01-10-2013 at 12:04 PM.
    3 SC's over a pair of SHO's ...

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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Woodstock Ga
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    1,772
    I have a bunch on the undercarage. Not bad like eating holes in it but more surface. It will only get worse. I will have to look into some of these suggestions. Not sure how to sandblast under the car. Would have to take it to someone.

    Was thinking of buying a better SC and transplanting the drive train and scrap the body but I cant do that. She needs to be saved not distroyed!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Manchester, NH
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    get a die grinder out and cut out that rusted sheet metal and mig in some good steel.

  9. #9
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    Apr 2004
    Location
    Rockland, Ma
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    660
    Buy some rockers and have them welded in. Its Cheap enough and thats the right way if you want to keep the car or find a clean shell and change everyting over like im doing now.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Herrin Illinois
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    [QUOTE=Plat0ribs;1018382]Pressure treated 2x6 fitted into rusty channel in order to provide mount point for ground effects.


    This shot of the drivers side after doing the same thing as in the image above.


    At some point you have to accept you can't restore it, but you can still use it and make it presentable for the time you will continue to drive it. Thank Ford and the engineers who designed the SC ground effects cause they can cover up a multitude of sins!

    For new hangers I simply buy a 1/8th X 1" strip of aluminum and sheet metal screw it to wherever I have solid rocker, I used washers for standoffs so the top edge of the plastic GFX will have a new purchase from which to hang![/QUOT
    Only Plat o ribs lol
    MEMBER #2488 best rwhp 504 485 torque
    2016 shootout Best of show award
    2015 Carlisle Best of show modified, 1st place 92 93 SC and Celebrity's choice award winner.
    2014 Shootout Best of show 1st award winner
    2014 Comp cams VIP Car craft street machine nationals
    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/garage.p...e_view&id=7152

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    69
    Here are some pictures of the damage... Man I hate salt
    Last edited by PuchRider; 06-10-2013 at 07:14 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    SLO County
    Posts
    358

    Evapo Rust

    Another rust converter that turns the oxidation back to metal is EVaP-O-RUSt. It's about 20 dollars per gallon at Harbor Freight and Tools. I have used a swamp cooler pump to let it run over the rusted area. Set it in a shallow plastic bin. It'l take over night. Also preclean with a wire brush on a dye grinder. Use a face shield The wires go flying.

    Also poor 15 make great products once it's rust free. You can even just coat right over the rust but I don't. There body coating is black but the gas tank sealer is a real pretty silver. I would use that if I didn't already have a quart of the black stuff. Por company also has a metal etch or use another commercial stuff but I avoid it because it is acid.
    90 5 speed. Owned since 4-91 it had 12,000 mi. Motor out since '99. I'm gonna fix it, really. Hoping for 450+ HP
    95 auto. owned since 03. Now a Daily driver the motor is in. It continues with electrical gremlins. I think in the PCM harness. Will be a daily driver. Expect 300 to 350 HP

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