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Thread: Radiator Mounted Electric Water Pump

  1. #1
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    Radiator Mounted Electric Water Pump

    I'm thinking about going with a radiator mounted electric water pump.

    I'll make up a blockoff plate for the timing chain cover then mount an electric pump on the radiator tank where the outlet currently is. I think there are a couple of people with remote inline pumps but I'm not sure where they are mounted.

    Does anybody have any experience with radiator mounted pumps?

    http://www.meziere.com/ps-1176-1144-wp362.aspx
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
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  2. #2
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    One of my friends works at C&R Racing who builds radiators for those in abundance. If I can't get a timing cover mounted pump to work I'll be going that route, too.
    1994 SC
    4.5L Twin Turbo SVO
    Project GTFD

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by CMac89 View Post
    One of my friends works at C&R Racing who builds radiators for those in abundance. If I can't get a timing cover mounted pump to work I'll be going that route, too.
    I cant find a timing cover mounted pump with the right spacing on the discharges except for the Morana one that is like $800.00. If you find one soon please let me know.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  4. #4
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    I've been using one of these for years. no problems with it. I just need to make a plate for the front cover. Guess its something I shoulld try again now that I have a TIG.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/em...bk34/overview/


    Photobucket is being a b***h right now I'll get some pics later.
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

  5. #5
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    Here is my first attempt at a cover plate. I think it would have worked great if the plate was thicker. It leaked like crazy. What I originally did was just gut the stock WP cut the impeller off. What that did was throw all the incoming water to one side of the engine. So I had like 50* temp swings for when the fan would come on. The engine temp would go to like 210 then the fan would kick on and the engine would cool to like 150 and just keep cycling like that.

    Road Hawg had a stock pump modified with a splitter to distribute the water to both sides. There are picks here somewhere.

    I also routed my inlet hose behind the belts so if the serp belt ever needs to be replaced you don't lose coolant. And have to mess with bleeding. When I can get photo bucket to display links I'll get picks of the stewart pump mounted.

    Kevin Leitem made a plate similar to what I have here. Thats what I modeled mine from. He used thicker material.
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

  6. #6
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    I was thinking of a plate like that...I have some 3/8 that I can make it from with a -16 fitting at each side with 2 -16 lines from the pump. If you have pics I'd definitely like to see how the pump is mounted
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  7. #7
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    Think i got this. Pump is just held there by the hoses.




    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

  8. #8
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    Here is Todd's setup.

    electric wp
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

  9. #9
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    Thanks Chris...those pics definately help.

    The water pump mod looks like alot of work......I'm thinking a flat plate with a coupld of AN lines would be easier.

    Holy cow those electric pumps are spendy?

    Did you go with the 55gpm over the 35gpm version?

    Also an interesting note about the coolant hose routing, especially for guys like David Neibert who are always fighting cooling capacity. The main cooling circuit runs from the crossover in the intake through the T-Stat then to the radiator and back to the pump. There are two other circuits that bypass the radiator entirely. One from the t-stat housing directly to the water pump, the seconds from the passenger side of the intake out to the throttle body, heater core, oil cooler then back to the pump.

    The main circuit flows all its coolant through 3 small openings in the t-stat, while the two bypass circuits are 5/8" or 3/4" and are wide open. I would say that more than 50% of the circulated coolant bypasses the radiator. Perhaps rerouting one of the bypass circuits through the rad would help with some extra cooling.

    I don't know why the upper and lower radiator hoses are so big, with the flow restriction of the t-stat they are certainly much larger than needed for flow?
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  10. #10
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    I don't think it would hurt to run the bypasses back to the rad. And for the rad fittings being so big I guess its kinda like having a huge blower inlet and an open exhaust.

    The reason the bypasses go to the WP is most likely for emissions to let the engine warm up faster. Like if you look at the newer mod motors they completely cut out the rad till the engine warms up.
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLOWN38 View Post
    I don't think it would hurt to run the bypasses back to the rad. And for the rad fittings being so big I guess its kinda like having a huge blower inlet and an open exhaust.

    The reason the bypasses go to the WP is most likely for emissions to let the engine warm up faster. Like if you look at the newer mod motors they completely cut out the rad till the engine warms up.
    Some people run without bypasses at all, a lot of racers come to mind, but this is bad practice if you run a thermostat. The purpose of a bypass is to make sure water is circulating within the motor during warmup to prevent hot spots and possible resulting damage. If you run a thermostat at all, then it should be considered mandatory to run a bypass as well.

    Of course I can't comment on the volume you might need in a bypass, it could be that the OE bypass is on the large side.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  12. #12
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    Do you think drilling some holes in the tstat would suffice to keep some water moving. Maybe (4) 1/4" holes around the perimeter or something?
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  13. #13
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    From the sounds of things i am guessing that you said screw the emissions test. If you did, screw the bypass and thermostat.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bNS...e_gdata_player 10.070 video
    Best ET to date 10.070
    Best MPH to date 130.51
    best 60' to date 1.312
    MPX blower/ NO NITROUS!

  14. #14
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    Too bad Mike Tuck did not do the electric water pump group buy.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...ght=water+pump

  15. #15
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    The part number for mine is E389A-R14. Which I guess they don't have red anymore. So it is 55gpm.
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlet on drag duty now

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