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Thread: Radiator Mounted Electric Water Pump

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCrazy View Post
    Do you think drilling some holes in the tstat would suffice to keep some water moving. Maybe (4) 1/4" holes around the perimeter or something?
    No, because that sends the water into the radiator. You want the pre-thermostat temp water circulation to occur only in the motor/heater (if you have one).

    If you are going to do a remote pump and block off plate, then I don't see how you can effectively run a bypass without some complicated plumbing. If you are going to go that route, then ditch the bypass and thermostat as Kevin suggested, and the ideal situation then would be to have a temperature regulated pump controller so that the pump runs slower and then picks up speed as temp increases. I think the SPAL PWM controller could handle that job and I'm sure there are other modules that will also do the job. This is a better way of controlling temperature than using a thermostat I think.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Leitem View Post
    From the sounds of things i am guessing that you said screw the emissions test. If you did, screw the bypass and thermostat.
    I had every intention of taking the car back for an emissions retest but then the weather turned crappy and I got the itch to start working on it.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XR7 Dave View Post
    If you are going to do a remote pump and block off plate, then I don't see how you can effectively run a bypass without some complicated plumbing. If you are going to go that route, then ditch the bypass and thermostat as Kevin suggested, and the ideal situation then would be to have a temperature regulated pump controller so that the pump runs slower and then picks up speed as temp increases. I think the SPAL PWM controller could handle that job and I'm sure there are other modules that will also do the job. This is a better way of controlling temperature than using a thermostat I think.
    I was thinking along similar lines and the only dedicated water pump controller I could find is: http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...0-details.aspx.

    This unit is kind of a blend of technologies, it doesn't modulate speed at low flow but rather pulses the motor at 50% speed on/off (10 sec on/30 sec off when ice cold) (10 sec on/10 sec off when getting warm) until about 40 degrees below setpoint then ramps speed linearly from 50% to 100% to regulate temperature. I assume they do this so the motor doesn't stall at very low speeds. I haven't seen the SPAL unit yet but I assume it is a fan controll but the technology should be similar I'll check it out...thanks.

    Downside to the Davies Craig unit is it looks like junky construction and I can't find alot of people who have used it.

    I know that OEMs are starting to eliminate mechanical thermostats and modulate water flow but I'm suprised there isn't a bigger aftermaket for this stuff....seems like a no brainer when you have an electric pump.
    Last edited by SCrazy; 01-18-2013 at 09:35 AM.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  4. #19
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    Brian,

    There is a company called Delta Current Control that makes fan and water pump controllers that might be worth a look.

    http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

    I've got one of their Mrk8 fans with built in controller on my 93 SC and while the unit I bought is also capable of controlling an electric water pump, I opted to wire my pump to run at full speed all the time because I still use the bypass and thermostat.

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  5. #20
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    NICE !!....I'm all over that.

    Thanks David

    Oh and as for Keith whining about unexpected costs I'll take your fuel lines and raise you an electric water pump and controller and lines for $900.00.

    Good thing Jen spent the night at the casino with the girls last night.
    Last edited by SCrazy; 01-18-2013 at 10:54 AM.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCrazy View Post
    Good thing Jen spend the night at the casino with the girls last night.
    What ever happened to the old saying "two wrongs don't make a right?" !!! lol

    Yes DCC control. Couldn't think of it last night. Only thing I will say is that I think you do want some circulation at pretty much all times. I don't condone using a system that shuts off the pump completely.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  7. #22
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    It definately doesn't make it right....just makes me less self concious about spending an extra $900 after the umpteen million already spent this winter.

    The DCC unit runs the pump at a minimum continuous 35% which is nice. That other controller I posted just didn't seem very high quality to me and since it cycled the pump on and off at low temps I definately think this DCC unit better.
    Brian Oatway
    '94 SC 2.6KB C4 Auto
    9.956 @ 135.12 mph 1.364 60'
    514rwhp/460rwtq
    "Super Uber Club Member" - per Ira
    SCCoA Member # 705

  8. #23
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    butler pa
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    My opinion, if its going to be a track car, screw the pump controller. Just one more item to fail, and maybe melt down an engine. Idling in the pits to warm up doesn't require water circulation. Oil temp is what you need to worry about, make sure oil is up to temp and keep water cold.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bNS...e_gdata_player 10.070 video
    Best ET to date 10.070
    Best MPH to date 130.51
    best 60' to date 1.312
    MPX blower/ NO NITROUS!

  9. #24
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    Indy
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    Agreed. Save some money; that's too expensive.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...23675/10002/-1
    1994 SC
    4.5L Twin Turbo SVO
    Project GTFD

  10. #25
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    We can agree to disagree on this one.

    Warming up an engine without water circulation can result in hot spots in the cylinder heads. Keeping water circulation slower during warmup and allowing it to vary itself automatically as the engine builds heat going down the track is a good thing. Engine temps can easily go from 180 at the starting line to 220 by the end of the track where load is highest. Having a system that actively targets this is a good thing in my opinion.

    Oil heaters are good, but as an add-on, not a substitute.
    Quote Originally Posted by Miller View Post
    Ya thats why i tape mine down. People think its bc i dont have a moonroof seal (which is true) but its really to keep my roof from ripping off .
    Email me here.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    butler pa
    Posts
    1,926
    With an oil heater you dont have to have water temp at 180. Even without oil heater i would never start a run at 180. What does it matter if there is a hot spot while idling. As soon as you start circulating cold water it will cool it.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bNS...e_gdata_player 10.070 video
    Best ET to date 10.070
    Best MPH to date 130.51
    best 60' to date 1.312
    MPX blower/ NO NITROUS!

  12. #27
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    Jul 2002
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    Manchester, NH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Leitem View Post
    My opinion, if its going to be a track car, screw the pump controller. Just one more item to fail, and maybe melt down an engine. Idling in the pits to warm up doesn't require water circulation. Oil temp is what you need to worry about, make sure oil is up to temp and keep water cold.
    Idling is when you need the circulation the most.......to protect from hot spots that is.
    Last edited by 90sc35thann; 01-18-2013 at 01:31 PM.

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