Hot No restart

Went back to their e-Bay list'n and they say they or Dorman give a one year warrenty so will call their store today and see...I think I still have the E-Bay E-mails for the puchase and Pay-Pal so we'll see

Want'd- JHB balancer 89-93!! Will pay $250 used before I order a new one message me what you have?....No longer interested in used factory or Dorman's

Thanks,
100N/Steve

hydroracer100N said:

PSS the wife said "ya gott'a git a more reliable, less exspencive ta maintain, car for runs now that we're retired and gon'na "Snow-Bird" back-n-forth between North-West Carolina, Florida, and back home Summers in Erie, PA!!"...............NO-WAY WOMAN!!......That's why we have Triple-A "Plus"......

Click to expand...

LOL. That'll learn her!

It looks to me like the Dorman balancer press fit wasn't tight enough. How did it go on originally? Did it take a lot of force to slide it on?

S_Mazza said:

LOL. That'll learn her!

It looks to me like the Dorman balancer press fit wasn't tight enough. How did it go on originally? Did it take a lot of force to slide it on?

Click to expand...

It seem'd like it went on very easy with bolt and rat-shi(t)........Alot easier than the broke factory ones stub pulled OFF!!

I seem to be having similar issues, intermittent, as in it has happened twice in about 2 weeks.

First time i was at the gym and had only driven the car about 5 minutes to get there, i came back out 45 minutes later started and died then no restart, left to take my daughter to a dr appt and then to the store for a few minutes. I would imagine about 1 hour passed and the car cranked right up, no issues.

The second time just happened yesterday at a friends kids birthday party, after about a 30 minute drive I parked it and stayed at the party for about an hour or so, tried to start car fired once and died then just cranked and cranked...waited about 30 minutes or so after fiddling with electrics to make sure there were no missed connections, still no fire. Replaced ECT sensor since i had a back up because of the first failure above, started and died immediately. I had my friend start the car while i held the throttle cable wide open and it came to life...a little stumbly. Made it all the way home and this morning it fired right up.

Did anyone resolve this issue or is it still just multiple possible failure points? I have not checked fuel pressure at the rail...need to get a gauge for that. I have a few different spare parts...should i swap coil packs, ircm, dis, crank and cam sensors?

My issue was tied to bad ICM and FPR. ICM would only show bad during back to back testing while hot (if you take to Parts store for testing have them running multiple times back to back). FPR had a bad o-ring.

Jury is still out as to if the whole issue has been resolved. Looked good on the last drive though.

well...i'm at work and i just went out to make sure that the vac line was well connected from the fpr to the plenum...broke the line. I had a spare in the trunk luckily...im sure i could have made something work regardless, but now my hand are swollen(popped a blood vessel) from playing behind the plenum with those tiny fittings.

have you tried cleaning the mounting bracket for the icm and putting a new layer of heatsink compound ?

well...i just put some new heat sink on about 2 months ago now, when i saw radio shack was closing down i bought some heat sink on clearance. I have an extra harness that i got at a pull a part yard a while back, i think i will swap that out on tuesday for kicks. after reading another post someone mentioned that it was happening to them with a low tank of gas...both for me have been around a quarter tank, not sure if that is a coincidence or not...

this morning like i said i had no issues getting to work, started again a few hours later and then about an hour after that with a stop at a gas station in between...like its been said before im glad its working but im upset that i cant pinpoint the problem.

::: of note :::

I checked the vacuum line from the fpr and it was very brittle and i broke it, then replaced it...dont know if this was an issue or not, I could smell fuel when cranking yesterday during the no start, but it may have been the fact that I cranked it alot.

also, I checked the balancer, you know, just in case. it is a bhj so i didnt really suspect it, but one of the crank pulley bolts had back out about a quarter inch...I tightened it back down and checked the others and the crank bolt, all else was good.

the double intercooler that I got from kw had a stripped out stud hole at the top, i tried initially to use thread lock, then jb weld and then i did a fix a thread thing...anyways all failures, so its probably leaking somewhat from there with the stud pulled out...think i will have to get a little more creative to get it to seal properly.

The #1 point to check if it suddenly won't start is, does it have spark? And the crank sensor is the most critical sensor for that.

Has not occurred again as of yet...I chaned the harness for cam and dis, some frayed wires from the ac belt rubbing on cam sensor...perhaps that was an issue.

Harnesses take a beating on the front/top of the SC engine. Might have been a compromised wire, corroded pins, missing shielding, oil bathed connectors or any combo thereof. Might have been nothing more than moving them around that helped, but any time you find a weak spot, it's best to fix it on these cars.

shocar4 said:

Had these exact symptoms on my sho....it was the fuel pump!

Click to expand...

bowez said:

My issue was tied to bad ICM and FPR. ICM would only show bad during back to back testing while hot (if you take to Parts store for testing have them running multiple times back to back). FPR had a bad o-ring.

Jury is still out as to if the whole issue has been resolved. Looked good on the last drive though.

Click to expand...

tmz93sc said:

have you tried cleaning the mounting bracket for the icm and putting a new layer of heatsink compound ?

Click to expand...

S_Mazza said:

The #1 point to check if it suddenly won't start is, does it have spark? And the crank sensor is the most critical sensor for that.

Click to expand...

So in response to these suggestions...

I had another no,start today while warm, over half a tank of gas.

While on ramps in back the fuel pump was making a funny sound with key on, may be getting weak.

Checked for spark...didn't know how until reading about it and probably didn't do it right, but I pulled a wire connected another plug to it, no spark...but it wasn't grounded, don't know if that is important or not. Seems like it should spark regardless.

Had a spare dis/icm, swapped it, the one I pulled felt quite warm. The engine fired right away with the new one, so there's that, hopefully that is my issue sorted...if it happens again I may apply more heat sink, but I thought that a whole tube was probably enough.

Thanks everyone.

The spark plug does need to be grounded to spark(it's normally attached to the motor for ground). Also too much thermal paste can be counter productive, so just apply a thin coat over the back of the dis.