aod acting weird after trans pan video add

I was thinking about it and was talking with my dad last night about this and he said I wouldn't do that the Trans may blow up... Guess I have nothing to lose if I'm gonna change it anyways...

Btw what does throwing it in park do?

Tell dad that's old school. :D Many of us have done it AND lived to tell about it. :cool: If anything, you should take him along for the ride and watch him freak out.. :)

My understanding is that the sudden shift into park shocks the fluid flow to the govenor. The rattle/buzzing that you'll hear is the sound of the locking pawl skipping over the gaps in the ring gear. If you were to keep it up for long enough, the locking pawl and ring gear would get worn down and the car wouldn't stay in P. But you won't be doing that. We're talking 1-2 seconds tops.
 
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Tell dad that's old school. :D Many of us have done it AND lived to tell about it. :cool: If anything, you should take him along for the ride and watch him freak out.. :)

My understanding is that the sudden shift into park shocks the fluid flow to the govenor. The rattle/buzzing that you'll hear is the sound of the locking pawl skipping over the gaps in the ring gear. If you were to keep it up for long enough, the locking pawl and ring gear would get worn down and the car wouldn't stay in P. But you won't be doing that. We're talking 1-2 seconds tops.

be great to take him he'd freak out.....

i didnt mess with it today, i decided to post on that forums david told me about so im gonna see what i hear from there.. worst case i can tear this trans apart once i put the other in if i cant figure something out by this weekend..
 
What did you torque the filter mounting bolts to? They should be 80-90 in/lbs. If they are under or over torqued, it could cause problems.

Also try adding Lubegard in the red bottle. It will free up sticking valves.

http://www.lubegard.com/~/C-112/LUBEGARD+Automatic+Transmission+Fluid+Protectant

Good luck!

Bryan

i didnt use any kind of tq wrench but i dont think i over tighten them much if any....

and i gonna try the 30mph park jam and then back to drive and see what happens if it starts to work cool if not i think its coming out.. and ill tear it down and see whats up.. would be my first tranny rebuild but ive tore down tons stripping them in the scrap word.

ive got more help on here then that click click racing site.:eek::rolleyes:
 
video on first post

also did the park while drivin at 30ish mph it seemed to help for the first dropped back into drive and the once it shifted to 2nd it was back to the way it was before.
 
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aod troubles

Good evening

After reviewing the video a few times I would suspect the valve body. I would re-check the torque (torque wrench) and the torque bolt sequence. Was the valve body overhauled at the last transmission rebuild? It could be the boost valve and or main pressure regulator may be sticking due some dirt and or ageing. This would require the valve body removal. Removal of the separator plate to find out. At this point you could:
A. Remove the valve body inspect and make the necessary repairs.
B. Remove the valve body and install a shift kit.
C. Remove and replace the valve body.
D. Remove and replace the transmission.
Before removing the transmission (your option) perform a transmission pressure test. Quoting from the Haynes Tech Book Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul "the oil pressure test indicates the hydraulic pressure being generated by the oil pump and actually be used in a specific hydraulic circuit." The test would find if there is any low pressure in the neutral, overdrive, drive or 1 and reverse ranges and would single out areas to check.

I agree with SuperChicken 89. Add a cleaner/lubricate (LubeGard) and a drive would be on list to try before doing the above.
 
Good evening

After reviewing the video a few times I would suspect the valve body. I would re-check the torque (torque wrench) and the torque bolt sequence. Was the valve body overhauled at the last transmission rebuild? It could be the boost valve and or main pressure regulator may be sticking due some dirt and or ageing. This would require the valve body removal. Removal of the separator plate to find out. At this point you could:
A. Remove the valve body inspect and make the necessary repairs.
B. Remove the valve body and install a shift kit.
C. Remove and replace the valve body.
D. Remove and replace the transmission.
Before removing the transmission (your option) perform a transmission pressure test. Quoting from the Haynes Tech Book Ford Automatic Transmission Overhaul "the oil pressure test indicates the hydraulic pressure being generated by the oil pump and actually be used in a specific hydraulic circuit." The test would find if there is any low pressure in the neutral, overdrive, drive or 1 and reverse ranges and would single out areas to check.

I agree with SuperChicken 89. Add a cleaner/lubricate (LubeGard) and a drive would be on list to try before doing the above.


Thanks ill keep this in my mind very helpfull
 
I suggested Lubegard because the stuff works. Many trans builders use it on an overhaul. The stuff isn't magic in a bottle but it has friction modifiers which help the valves in the valve body.

When I installed the slightly used Calibration 3 Lentech valve body into my heavily modified 69 Cougar AOD, it wasn't shifting well. Hanging in gears and not down shifting right.... very erratic operation. I knew it was the valve body and was kicking myself in the A** for not disassembling and cleaning before installing into the new trans even though it was clean as a whistle. My trans buddy suggested putting a bottle of the red Lubegard in. I was reluctant to put it into the fresh synthetic fluid but did any way. After driving it about 5 miles all of the shifting issues were gone. Believe the stuff works but it won't perform miracles.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

P.S. When dealing with a valve body always and I mean always torque every bolt. Don't use your arm as a torque wrench. The trans filter bolts are very close to several valves and can cause issues when not properly torqued. The valve body is cast aluminum and can flex very easily. And if you do pull the valve body to clean, never reuse any of the gaskets. The 2 gaskets will only cost you about $1.50 each.

Bryan
 
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I suggested Lubegard because the stuff works. Many trans builders use it on an overhaul. The stuff isn't magic in a bottle but it has friction modifiers which help the valves in the valve body.

When I installed the slightly used Calibration 3 Lentech valve body into my heavily modified 69 Cougar AOD, it wasn't shifting well. Hanging in gears and not down shifting right.... very erratic operation. I knew it was the valve body and was kicking myself in the A** for not disassembling and cleaning before installing into the new trans even though it was clean as a whistle. My trans buddy suggested putting a bottle of the red Lubegard in. I was reluctant to put it into the fresh synthetic fluid but did any way. After driving it about 5 miles all of the shifting issues were gone. Believe the stuff works but it won't perform miracles.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

P.S. When dealing with a valve body always and I mean always torque every bolt. Don't use your arm as a torque wrench. The trans filter bolts are very close to several valves and can cause issues when not properly torqued. The valve body is cast aluminum and can flex very easily. And if you do pull the valve body to clean, never reuse any of the gaskets. The 2 gaskets will only cost you about $1.50 each.

Bryan

thanks guys but i decided the trans is coming out today and the low milage working trans is going in.. then ill figure out whats gonna happen to this trans
 
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