Angry Bird update and electrical ID

jclars

Registered User
Hi all,

It was this time last year that I was peppering this forum with questions like a 5 year old! What's this? What's that? Well, I ended up having a super driving season with a well behaved 89 SC in the body of an old pick-up.

This past winter, I tore it down again, boxed the frame (the IRS and IFS needed a stronger frame!), painted the chassis parts and rebuilt the front end. I also moved the gas tank to a saddle position, but maintained the T-bird fuel outlet.

I managed to trim some more of the original wiring harness, and continue to do so, but this year with more caution. The last pic I attach is of a connection that has a plug in it and located up front in the same splice as the horns and front LH ground buss. Since it is plugged, perhaps it was for an option that was not on the donor car. If so, what was it for?

Hope all are doing well. I loiter on this forum occasionally, but havent had much reason to post. I will update more when I finish the work for this driving season.

Thanks,
John La. 56 F100 SC side front view.jpg56 f100 frame rebuild 3-14.jpg10 Clean & Painted T-bird 8.8 IRS.jpgAnother mystery connection - front LH engine bay.jpg
 
Cars sold in Canada had DRL. I've been looking, but I haven't seen one so equipped here in the states yet.

Your progress looks great - still going to make the show?

Ken
 
Thanks gang for the help and compliments!

I could not find connection listed in my EVTM - were you able to locate it there, or is this once again just the impressive knowledge base that exists on this forum?

Are there any useful circuits in this plug? Any switched circuits, etc that may prove useful for accessories I may add in the future? I am preparing to lobe it off otherwise.

What show are you referring to Ken? My target is to be at a Memorial Day show in Bellingham. This weekend, I will get the front clip back on including electric to everywhere. If the electric checks out, I should be out of the woods!

John L.
 
I run DRL LEDs, but they are switched/wired direct from a key-on hot. If I could find the matching factory female connector I'd look into using that circuit instead.

I haven't pulled the cap on that connector - is it just a plug or does it bridge those circuits? You may just be able to de-pin the connector and then wrap/hide the leads against the harness, but they will be hot at times, so be careful. If you can clip those out and seal/isolate and be more clean than the factory stub, I'd go for it. Maybe split the harness and delete the tails there. I think you know the routine :)

Weren't you going to some show in Long Beach...?
 
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If you want DTRL all you need to do is get a Canadian to send you the module and plug it in. As for the plug and associated wiring, it all has to do with the factory cluster/multifunction switch and headlight controls. You can remove that whole thing if you aren't using the SC headlight wiring.
 
Good points Ken. I will pull the plug to make sure it isn't bridging anything. But my point is indeed to back it out of there, at least to the junction point. I am doing the same with some secondary ABS leads that are not being used.

I used the original harness because I incorporated the entire interior from the bird. Includes gauge pod, steering column with all switches, lights (except DRL!!), gas pump/sending unit, seats, etc. It would be just as lengthy to list what I've deleted, but it was a bunch.

Yes Ken, you are correct. I was trying to get it dependable enough to take it down there in Sept. I took it to a local show last year and was the only rat rod entry. But wow, good crowd reaction as they ignored nicely painted cars all around the truck, with lots of curiosity about the T-bird drivetrain.
 

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There is a jumper in there. I forget what the jumpered circuit is for, but autolamps comes to mind.

Do you mind if I share some of these pics on FB? I think the truck is one of the coolest things I know.
 
Thanks for the clue on that circuit, Dave. I do use the auto lamp function, so I will still do some pruning, but keep the jumpered lines connected.

Feel free to use any pics you see. Your're welcome to any pics. I keep a photobucket album public for it. Appreciate the positive feedback!! Attached is a matching pic to the first one in this post.

Just a couple of months ago, I tracked down a more appropriate forum for this style of rod, and a build thread can be found there:

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31026

The build thread is retroactive, as it took an a few fits and starts with other less classy sites to choose ratrodsrule.com as "home". I talked the SC forum up on my postings as a very helpful group, so maybe you will see more V6s living on in a new lifestyle.
 

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Not to thread jack, and nice truck by the way, I have dtrl and French throughout my car that I just picked up from thunder Dave, so is it safe to assume I have a Canadian bird? I thought I read that they didn't have the sliding seat belts but I do.
 
Nice F100. Since viewing pics on that other forum requires us to register, can you post a pic or two of your front suspension/brakes? What calipers are those, SSBC?
 
Sorry about wasting everyones time on that link! Try my photobucket link to see pics of the IFS installation. It is the only thing on the truck that is not T-bird - it is from a Jaguar XJ-6, including 11" disks and 4 piston calipers.

http://s647.photobucket.com/user/jclars/library/1956 Ford F-100 Pick-up

The photobucket album was not updated recently, so not as complete as the first link, but you shouldnt have to register.

A further thought on the DRL function - I thought that was a standard feature, as mine worked in that fashion last year. Then I recalled that the light sensor for the auto function was buried under my dashboard and because it was always dark under there, I had DRL by default. So there you go. A piece of black electrical tape over the light sensor will get you the DRL option on the cheap!

John L.
 
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Another electrical ID issue

I am down to the final connection details and can find a connecting point for this pigtail. It comes out of the speed control servo and for some reason has a connection into the pigtail adapter shown. Coming out of the servo the wires are Orange, Grey and White, while the pigtail wires are Yellow, grey and white.

What do they connect to?Speed control wire.jpgSpeed control wire.jpg
 
Those may be the three leads to the EEC. Pins: 51; 11; 35.

I thought you had speed control sorted?

Are you using the stock horn wiring?
 
Hi Ken - yes, my speed control was active last year. I just cant recall or find where this thing plugs in. (Recall I was trying to get an indicator light to work for the speed control. That effort failed, but the speed control was cool on an "old" truck like this!

Yes, stock horn wiring. Why?

Thanks!
John L.
 
With the SC cruise control switches on the steering wheel, I seem to recall that there is s shared circuit that feeds the SC horn circuit.

If I'm interpreting the wire colors in your example correctly, those are for the EEC pins as noted, but since you have that wired/working,...

Could the orange wire be orange/yellow and the white be white/pink by any chance?

I'm looking at 31-2 in the EVTM.
 
I don't have my EVTM with me at the moment. EEC not necessarily working this time around, as I haven't started it yet. In fact, I ran into a little issue last night that made me think something is not connected, maybe a crucial grounding point. The problem involved no fuel at crank. I did jump the relay and got fuel, but didn't take it any further, just happy the pump was working. I think the one thing I made more difficult in my build is the pump access. My tank is under the drivers floor and would require dropping the running board and brackets out. It would be easy if I wanted to cut a 6" dia hole in my floor I guess...

I just thought with the shape of that plug, there would surely be a mating connector somewhere in the locale.

Thanks,
John
 
Guessing that is what the EVTM locator is calling C-155 (151-1-E9) - right fender front...near the battery, not that it does you much good loose, tho, sorry.
 
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