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Thread: travis's motor build

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    Trying out the new O'Reily cam sensor.
    Last edited by 35thpartdeux; 06-05-2014 at 10:51 PM. Reason: double post

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    Installed the new plug, put a new cam sensor on and won't start. I ran the codes and all that came up was 19 (cid sensor failure) so looks like I gotta keep digging through parts.
    Last edited by 35thpartdeux; 06-05-2014 at 10:50 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    919
    Did you put a 94+ block in? What exactly did you change?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Eastern (nee Western) PA
    Posts
    4,993
    Quote Originally Posted by 35thpartdeux View Post
    Installed the new plug, put a new can sensor on and won't start. I ran the codes and all that came up was 19 (cid sensor failure) so looks like I gotta keep digging through parts.
    The car should start with no cam sensor, though it will sometimes take several tries. After that, it will run fine.

    If yours doesn't do this, then you may have a different problem.
    God bless!!!

    Former Birds:
    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~225,000 miles ... Sold.
    1990 SC auto ... white outside, gray cloth inside ... ~150,000 miles ... wrecked.
    1989 Base auto ... Crystal Blue metallic outside, dark blue inside ... ~160,000 miles ... Sold.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    It's a 1991 block with a custom grind cam from Dave and bigger valves. Other than that not much else has changed. I'll try to unplug the sensor and see what happens.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    Runs without a cam sensor hooked up...so back to the return line.
    Last edited by 35thpartdeux; 06-05-2014 at 10:50 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    The computer died 10 pm Sunday June 8th RIP. New one in Thursday.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191

    update

    So I found out the fuse to the ignition coil just blew, the old computer still works. I just got my money back from O'Reily's for the Made in China cam sensor and got one from Auto Zone, which says made in USA hope that makes a difference. On top of that the IAC started sounding like a turbo waste gate so I'm getting another one of those too...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    kansas city
    Posts
    1,400
    well we are both having loads of problems.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191

    head scratcher

    Starting to run out of ideas... The car rarely starts now. I replaced the crank sensor and cam sensor, neither of them throw codes anymore. I replaced the coil pack since the old one was getting weak, pulled all of the plugs and put new or cleaned ones back in. The car started right after I did all this , ran choppy( the computer still hasn't learned idle yet) and finally died while I checked out things in the engine bay. It hasn't started since and doesn't have any codes for me to check into.... I checked the ground cables , made sure there's fuel pressure at the rail, tried starting it without the SCT chip and still nothing.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    The ground from the block to battery keeps getting really hot when I crank the motor, so I pulled the ground cable bolt out , cleaned the block and bolt up, and hooked it back up. It's a brand new cable and still gets hot, and the starter binds up when I crank the motor, so I pulled it out and had it tested, and it shows that it's still good... Anyone have some ideas?

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
    Posts
    7,202
    Did you also replace the ground from the pass. side motor mount over to the body?

    Any of the components involved power coated and/or painted where they should be naked to help the ground path?

    Both battery clamps clean/tight?

    How many volts in the battery with key off?

    If you try to start with the headlights on, do them dim when cranking?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,320

    Your other problem

    Check post #10 in this thread. http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...nd+door+vacuum

    Your looking for a yellow vacuum line.
    Jim, SCCoA Member#: 2789

    "cuz Jim has mad skillz, yo!" Melon.
    "You guys crack me up talking about nitrous when you don't even know if you can keep it together on gasoline." XR7 Dave
    "I didn't break it, I found it's weakness."

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    kansas
    Posts
    191
    I checked the passenger ground, it looked fine. The battery is new and checked out, the connections are clean/tight. Tomorrow I will take the passenger side ground off and make sure it's perfectly clean. Thanks for the vacuum link Jim.
    Last edited by 35thpartdeux; 07-12-2014 at 01:03 PM.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem OR
    Posts
    7,202
    If you take the pass. side ground off, you might as well replace it. Remember, corrosion can hide under the sheath, so only way to know it is good is to use new, I think, especially if it is original. Don't forget to scrape clean the spot where it bolts to the body.

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