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Thread: A/C rebuild tips

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Eastern (nee Western) PA
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    Seems to me that many of us lost our R-12 because the stock O-rings seem to give up if you let the car sit for more than a couple of months. Or the compressor died, which would require a flush and/or parts replacement. So I think most people will be stuck buying new refrigerant in any case.

    Still, I do basically agree that the R-12 is not so much harder to get or more expensive that I would automatically jump to R-134a. (I got my Mobile AC certification so I can buy all that stuff now! )
    God bless!!!

    Former Birds:
    1990 SC auto ... red outside, gray cloth inside ... ~225,000 miles ... Sold.
    1990 SC auto ... white outside, gray cloth inside ... ~150,000 miles ... wrecked.
    1989 Base auto ... Crystal Blue metallic outside, dark blue inside ... ~160,000 miles ... Sold.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    5
    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    70 degree vent temps... dude... you been scammed LOL!! Thats someone who is just too lazy or doesn't know what he's doing and is passing off BS to get his pay and move on..

    Sure.. the original refrigerant is the best thing to use, but... since you have to have a license and its hard to procure, using r134a is a reasonable tradeoff. And no.. it doesn't work as well IF you JUST drop it in and do nothing more. You sort of have to "adjust" your old A/C like we discussed. I hit the sweet spot in my red car.. new modern multipass condenser (the OEM tube&fin one will not do the job), new (or adjusted) pressure switch, orange Otube, and charged just right. I get 34 out the vent on recirc.

    Now here's the conumdrum.. IF... and its a big IF... your system is leakfree and in good condition, you would never have lost cooling in the first place.. So its (therefore) broken by definition. You must repair it. For most of the time though, you never have the chance to repair before the compressor goes. When the compressor goes it suffers what is called black death. You essentially have to replace everything under the hood to fix it. This means a new condenser which is only made in the modern 8mm multipass type, compressor, liquid line, and accumulator. Since you have to do all of that anyway even if you stay with R12, making the jump to r134 is not that much more work.

    As for HCs.. I might be willing to consider it, but I honestly don't have time to mess with experimenting with it.. so I stick with what has a track record. BTW.. of your list... only Duracool, Envirosafe are actual HC refrigerants.. 2 are r134 blends. Freeze 12 for instance.. the number 12 means well..... it means 12! .. has nothing to do with R12 its purely a labeling gimic.
    It wasn't a matter of being scammed, they were working with the equipment the car had, you have to make upgrades to get the R-134 to get R12 performance just like the OEMs did when they made the switch, and I'm also dealing with severe 110 degree heat (AZ). In most climates in the US, the conversion would have been fine. This was also the very early days of R-134, parallel flow condensors as an upgrade weren't as universally available to retrofits.

    If you're planning on rebuilding nearly everything and making upgrades to the condenser, rerouting lines, etc, then it probably makes sense to go with R-134, but if it's something like your system needs a leak repaired and recharge, I would repair and refill with either R-12 or look at the hydrocarbon route. Even though the old stock R-12 looks expensive, as long as you have a system that doesn't leak, it's not that much more than filling up your tank at the gas station.

    R-12 just worked a lot better for car AC, and it was a bullsh#t the reason it got banned the way it did, it was a combination of junk environmental science and new patents. Now they're saying R-134 is bad for the environment just about the time the patents are all expiring and there's a push to ban it. How convenient.

    It was very easy to get ice cubes to come out of your vents with an R-12 system. Cars in that era never seemed to have issues cooling, but I've owned new cars from the factory with R-134 and some still have issues. If you live in a really hot climate, I would probably just pay the extra for the R-12 just to get the better performance and reuse as much of the factory setup as possible. Or look into the hydrocarbons. I would only go with R-134 if I had to, but really cold AC is important to me.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    SCCoA Member#1257
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    i've been searching for a while and cant find the PN for the 94-95 motorcraft cycle switch. I know I saw it somewhere in the forum but now can't find! Not coming up in Rock auto either.

    Do any of you gents have it handy?
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
    Old: 89 SC auto Twilight Blue, 89 SC stick Titanium, 90 35th stick, 92 Sport 5.0L stick, 94 SC stick Black, 1994 SC Auto Teal
    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

    www.mamn12.com for your mid-atlantic mn12 needs!

  4. #34
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    Apr 2012
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    Dallas, TX
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  5. #35
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    You're the man! Looks like motorcraft YH552 it is for me. Thanks!
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
    Old: 89 SC auto Twilight Blue, 89 SC stick Titanium, 90 35th stick, 92 Sport 5.0L stick, 94 SC stick Black, 1994 SC Auto Teal
    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

    www.mamn12.com for your mid-atlantic mn12 needs!

  6. #36
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    Apr 2012
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    Dallas, TX
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    461
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-Y...tXFqFR&vxp=mtr

    Yeah i just saw you were looking speciafically for the rotorcraft one

  7. #37
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    Jun 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon20x View Post
    Heya Falcon...or anyone with the knowledge. Your link (although expired) sends me to an auction for a Santech Industries #MT2907 kit. Is this the one you used?

    I used the compatibility tool on ebay and also checked the part number in autozone and in both places it said it was not compatible with the car. In this case, I entered a 90 SC since that's what I'm currently working on.

    I just wanted to confirm that that's the kit you used so I can buy it.

    Thanks!
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
    Old: 89 SC auto Twilight Blue, 89 SC stick Titanium, 90 35th stick, 92 Sport 5.0L stick, 94 SC stick Black, 1994 SC Auto Teal
    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

    www.mamn12.com for your mid-atlantic mn12 needs!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    461

    Kit

    The kit is not car specific. Any R12 to R 134 conversion will work. For piece of mind check with you closest autozone or O Reilly


    https://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-AC-R-12-...4621da39e4b80c

  9. #39
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    There are some differences though. I got a set of retrofit fittings from a BMW friend and only the low side worked. Then I bough an A/C Pro retrofit kit PN LXVC-12, which comes with three fittings. Two fit perfectly and one is the same as the kit I got from my BMW buddy. Unfortunately, I didn't notice that the A/C pro kit doesn't come with valves so I have to go get a valve.

    Just FYI, Santec PN MT4031 appears to be the right kit with both correct metal fitings, and it comes with valves and plastic colored caps. That's the one I would get, would I need to do this again.
    Current: 1993 SC 5.0L Auto Red, 1994 SC 5-speed Teal, 1995 SC 5-speed Chameleon Blue
    Old: 89 SC auto Twilight Blue, 89 SC stick Titanium, 90 35th stick, 92 Sport 5.0L stick, 94 SC stick Black, 1994 SC Auto Teal
    Also: 1992 Feature Mustang Convertible 5-speed Vibrant Red, 1991 BMW 850i 6-speed Red, 1994 BMW 850CSi 6-speed Red

    www.mamn12.com for your mid-atlantic mn12 needs!

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