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Thread: Lowering Car Question:

  1. #1
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    Lowering Car Question:

    Well, I am going to be acquiring a set of 1.6 Vogltand springs for my bird and was wondering can I just install them as replacement springs leaving all other factory components the same? If I decided that since I have the springs out and wanted to change the shocks with a non-arc version does the fact that I have lowering springs change the shock replacement? Also what happens to the ride control when you remove the arc shocks? Does it throw a trouble code? I guess the button will not work. What other items should I do while I have the shocks off? Steering still feels tight and suspension seams ok. No front end noises to speak of.

  2. #2
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    ive read somewhere

    if you are going to do lowering springs you will probably need to get new endlinks as well...shorter.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjklongisland View Post
    Well, I am going to be acquiring a set of 1.6 Vogltand springs for my bird and was wondering can I just install them as replacement springs leaving all other factory components the same?
    As previously stated, you'll probably want shorter rear sway bar endlinks. The ones you have might still work, but might bind and even bend.

    Quote Originally Posted by jjklongisland View Post
    If I decided that since I have the springs out and wanted to change the shocks with a non-arc version does the fact that I have lowering springs change the shock replacement?
    Yes, it makes installation of the new front shocks easier, since you probably won't have to compress the lowering springs to get them back in place. Otherwise, no real change.

    Quote Originally Posted by jjklongisland View Post
    Also what happens to the ride control when you remove the arc shocks? Does it throw a trouble code?
    Occasionally. Not a big deal, and no other problems to speak of.

    Quote Originally Posted by jjklongisland View Post
    What other items should I do while I have the shocks off?
    I'd probably replace the front upper shock mounts. The shock puts them under a little more stress when the car is lowered. I don't know if I have a photo, but on my LX, the metal insert in the upper shock mount actually tore free of the rubber, leaving the shock fully extended at all times. Wasn't dangerous, but it wasn't ideal. May as well change those front sway bar endlinks, too. No one makes shorter ones, but if yours are old, it wouldn't hurt to replace them.

  4. #4
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    I installed Eiboch(maybe spelled that wrong) on Bill McNeils 93 SC. Left his adjustable shocks in and had no problems. I am not familiar with the ones you're using.

    As far as removing the adjustables i had to do that when I had my 90 XR7 my front springs were shot and shocks, rears gone. I could not afford the adjustable. I used Monroe struts and shocks for a V8 T-Bird same with the springs. Took off all the ride adjuster motors, no codes, of course the switch does nothing, I used it to turn my rad fan to high speed when I wanted it to.

  5. #5
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    I did this upgrade earlier this year. Contrary to previous post, I do not recommend the short endlinks commonly available from "super coupe companies". The factory rear sway bar endlink has a pivot on the top mounting point (sway bar end) and a fixed mount at the LCA. The "shorter endlink option" they sell does not pivot at the swaybar end. This means that you cannot lift the vehicle off the ground or it will ruin/bendthe swaybar endlinks. The pivot at the top is very important. If you can get a set custom fabbed with the pivot then go for it, but dont waste your money on buying a set.

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...hlight=endlink

    This is what happened to the endlinks I bought. I had the car on jackstands and used a jack to load up the LCA for installation, when I lowered the jack I watched the brand new endlink bend. In fairness to the company that I purchacsed it from, the instructions say to install while the vehicle is on the ground (for this very reason). I did not follow instructions but IMO this is an unacceptable part because we all know these cars need to go up on a lift from time to time.

    I am using Monroe shocks as well with the 1" drop vogtlands. It rides ok, but I would rather have a firmer shock combination with these springs. It can get a little bouncy when you push it. I am waiting for some Tokicos to become available again.

    Good Luck,
    Derek
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  6. #6
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    Thanks for all the great info guys... I know as soon as I pick them up I am going to want to install them and while sometime my impatience gets the best of me, I dont want to have to take things apart twice...

  7. #7
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    The hardest part of the job is compressing the original springs. Those spring compressors you get at chain auto parts stores (like these) are sketchy...I've never have a problem with them, but I watched them bend under tension and wasn't impressed at all. I think i used them once and replaced them with this. Yeah, it's Harbor Freight, but I've used it on a variety of vehicles and it's worked well.

    Everything else is pretty easy.

  8. #8
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    I took my fronts out of the car and ran them and new shocks w/new upper mounts over to a shop and let them swap them out. $50 cash and one hour later I was busy bolting them back on the car. They even took the time to make sure they were indexed properly.

  9. #9
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    I know I'm bringing up an old thread and much talked about topic but still haven't found my definitive answers. That picture above is discomforting.

    1) are there ill effects to the short sway bar end links bending? Imminent failure? Ride quality?
    2) are there ill effects of reusing the OEM sway bar end links w/ 1.5" drop springs?

    Would prefer to just to the once and I have both options available. I know slowpoke had adjustables made a while ago but not sure that's even an option at this time.
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUDXR7 View Post
    I know I'm bringing up an old thread and much talked about topic but still haven't found my definitive answers. That picture above is discomforting.

    1) are there ill effects to the short sway bar end links bending? Imminent failure? Ride quality?
    2) are there ill effects of reusing the OEM sway bar end links w/ 1.5" drop springs?

    Would prefer to just to the once and I have both options available. I know slowpoke had adjustables made a while ago but not sure that's even an option at this time.
    1) I used new shorter links.. That was 6-7 years ago and they're holding up just fine. My setup is the Tokico 1.25" springs and shocks. Ride quality is what you'd expect from a performance setup.. stiffer, but not bad.. I actually prefer it.

    2) I don't know about that part. My OEMs were old and worn, so I needed new ones anyway.

  11. #11
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    I lowered my car with eibachs over 10 years ago and I kept the stock sway bar links, never had an issue to this day.
    SCCOA Member #2406
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  12. #12
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    I reinstalled the stock endlinks. I didnt want to take a chance on having one of those bent ones failing on me. They just seem impractical. I've seen some people shorten and weld the stock ones back together again. I think the goal is to keep the sway bar horizontal when installed at ride height. Im not sure there is enough difference in how the sway bar sits to matter for most of us.
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  13. #13
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    The Springs are all in and I have rear end of the car on the ground w/ evenly inflated tires). The sway bar isn't connected yet because I just wanted to check if the ride height was even. The drivers side is 1/2" lower. Is this a settling issue or is it possible that have the coil springs oriented differently could cause this? Btw, the car is on a level concrete surface and the front of the car is off the suspension on blocks. I only removed the rear knuckle to lower control arm bolts and shock to control arm bolt for the install so alignment should be unaffected.
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  14. #14
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    I would drive the car around the block and make sure that the suspension has evened out. sometimes it sits funny when you let it down with a jack.
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

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