69 cougar troubles need some old school help

mywhite89 said:
Well, stuck a coil in it. still crank no start. I don't have an actual spark tester, so I stuck a good plug on the end of number 1 and grounded it out. Spark is red/orange and extremely weak just like before. I'm fairly confident if I parts warrantied the distributor it will fire right up again. Have to order those things though.

Chris

Attached some pictures. A few years ago we upgraded the front brakes to ssbc 4 piston disc and converted it to power brakes. Stops like a new car now. Has aftermarket ceramic coated headers that squeeze between those horrible shock towers, a mild cam, and an Edelbrock aluminum intake which probably lightened the car 30 pounds+. No joke!
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Wow! That is a pretty one. Looks like my old 69 390 4 speed but it was burgundy with the white top. I had two others as well a 69 351 Auto and a 70 Convertible Gold and white with the 351 Cleveland. Wish I still had them.

Good luck getting her sorted out and back running. Just work through the process and you'll figure it out.
 
that is one mean engine...

Here is a tid bit to tell all of your buddys that drive other stuff. The 427 SOHC is the only engine to ever be banned from nascar as being an unfair advantage.. This happened in 1965 and to date it is the only one to get that done to it... They also came down on the Boss 429's but they at least got to run more than just one race before they were asked to not come back to the track......Rich
 
I read that Rich in the 427 Cammers history, Ford developed it for NASCAR and then they said "oh well we can't have an engine like THAT in NASCAR" Even though it was a damned production engine. I read at one time when HUGE Ford dealers had their what would be today SVT divisions, there was a myriad of monster engines dealer available and installed, the Cammer was one of them.
 
We are back in business! Couldn't just report the good news right away. Had to take it for a drive of course. Rich ill park in your driveway and drink some beer with you! Lol. So it runs well and I got the timing dialed in ok. No more points.

I am only getting 10.5 volts while engine is running to the coil when using the negative battery terminal as my ground. Gonna trace that down next. 10.5 volts is too much for the points system though, right? Just want some closure for solving that issue.

Next step is to find the resistor or reason for voltage loss. Thanks for all the help everyone. So any idea where the resistor would be on these cars?

Chris
 
in the wire...

mywhite89 said:
We are back in business! Couldn't just report the good news right away. Had to take it for a drive of course. Rich ill park in your driveway and drink some beer with you! Lol. So it runs well and I got the timing dialed in ok. No more points.

I am only getting 10.5 volts while engine is running to the coil when using the negative battery terminal as my ground. Gonna trace that down next. 10.5 volts is too much for the points system though, right? Just want some closure for solving that issue.

Next step is to find the resistor or reason for voltage loss. Thanks for all the help everyone. So any idea where the resistor would be on these cars?

Chris
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They used a wire that had it built right into it. There is a way around that... You run a new wire and go with an outside resistor to get the volts right. You should be able to get that from any good speed shop or parts store. There were a lot of different places that used the outside resistor so just start asking around....Good luck......Rich
 
The factory output via resistor might put out around 9.x volts when heated up. Is that 10.5 the (charging) volts at the battery while running?

I'd be more worried if I saw 12.x at the coil while running, but...
 
It is 10.5 volts engine running alternator charging. Positive lead on coil, negative lead at battery.

Chris
 
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What are the volts, engine running, voltmeter positive lead on battery positive post, voltmeter negative lead on battery negative post?
 
Ah, well, then the 10.5v at the coil would seem to indicate a drop down thru some sort of resistor, particularly if that lead shows near 13.5v on cold start after the car sits overnite, as an example.

You might be good to go...
 
sleeper bird said:
that voltage is correct,i was told that the voltage drop is done by the starter relay.
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Not quite.

The starter relay bypasses the resistor so that you can get a full 12V into the coil on start.

That's why the two smaller screw terminals (S and I) - S goes to "START" pole on the ignition switch, and "I" goes to the coil to bypass the resistor that's wired to the "RUN" side of the ignition switch.

An example can be seen at http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/pdf/66-mustang-ignition-diagram.jpg .

RwP
 
I think I'm just going to run it that way and see what happens. Talked to a guy at work who has installed these ignitions on many vehicles and never had a problem. My dad used to stick them on lift trucks all the time back in the day also and never had issues.

Chris
 
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