New to me 1994 SC 5 speed...Teal v2.0 :)

Was able to move the car up the driveway so I can start working on the brake line leak. In the mean time I cleaned up the OEM air box & hose and installed it.















All but the lower airbox has the correct F4 part number...the lower air box has an E9 number. But I checked the airbox in my 95 and it also has the same number...so I duno, I'll have to check on that. No motorcraft air filter handy so I used a K&N for now.

Also will start looking into that reproduction "SC" sticker for the 94-95 SCs....and I recall seeing these brand new somewhere for a few bucks...just gotta remember where!



 
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Well I think I found my issue...I can't even tell where the actual pinhole is at. It doesn't matter.....I'll be replacing a good chunk of section on both lines.

Also landed the factory ABS bleeding tool and will probably order a pressure bleeder for next week. Slowly but surely....working an hour here and there after work.



 
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Slowly but surely....two nights ago in around 20ish degree weather i was able to cut the rotten chunks from both rear lines. Taped the ends together to avoid contamination and will shape new line using the cut segments, get the fittings installed and ends flared and get them all ready to splice.









 
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Wow! That's what I call rusty. I sure am glad I have a southern Cali car. My brake and fuel lines have some rust, but look brand new compared to what you cut out. Looks like you are on the correct path though my friend.
 
Very slow progress but yesterday I was able to bend new lines and flare all ends. Just need the union fittings so I can finis the patches and start the bleeding process. Hope to have this done soon.



 
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New sections of brake line are in! But after all this I wondered...did I need teflon in the fitting threads?? All that's left is fiddle with the mounting and add some rubber insulation so the lines/fittings don't rub against each other and the car surfaces....then bleed and hopefully all done!





By the by....some experience with brake line fittings from Autozone. I ended up buying different brands of fittings because I couldn't get all 4 from the same store. I would stay away from the Dorman brand. When I tried to tighten the lines with the Dorman unions the material was so soft it would strip easily and would not tighten. I had to go back to the store and get two more of the AGS fittings. I can't really say its a "China" thing because both fittings are made in CHina...maybe Dorman is more chinese than AGS? :). Caveat emptor!





 
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Lines in, brakes bled...but when I tried to start the car to check for leaks i had the annoying no-start condition I posted about earlier. Talk about buzz kill...i thought I would get to drive her today, but alas...denied!

Anywho, the Motive bleeder worked amazing and I documented the procedure to bleed the Teves IV abs valves. NOTE: The video only shows me pushing the "Valve" button a few times but it has to be held down for about 20 seconds. I retried the procedure after the video was recorded and followed the correct steps.







I did the valve bleed about 3 times because after each try and after syphoning out the old fluid from the reservoir I kept seeing these little specs. Little vacuum pump worked like a charm and helped keep things clean.



 
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So the good news....the random no-start problem appears to have been fixed with a new ignition switch.

The bad news...after finally starting the car after doing the brake line repairs....brake pedal still smushy...so gotta re-bleed.
 
back on the road! Been driving it for a couple days..brakes feel good, no starting issues. Enjoying it thoroughly!

 
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Car was on a short vacay for a few weeks. Started it up today to drive it this week and saw this. Looks like I gotta start hunting the leak. Or it may be the seal around the air inlet in the pass side.





Gratuitous pic of the noble beast from her current parking spot:

 
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Not much update from my end. Still haven't fixed the power locks that went wonky on me but I live with it for the few weeks that I get to drive the car. All else going OK with the beast.

Took this cool pic last week when we got some fog.

 
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Quick update front my end. Power steering on the teal car went Kaput early in the year. Took my time diagnosing and finally doing the work. Lots was done in the process:

*added missing studs to steering bracket for lower and upper IC tubes. Lotsa people leave these out but...for originality purposes...I did the contrary :).
*Took the entire steering bracket out and did some cleaning back there
*added anti-seize to all the bolts that were removed/re-installed
*added missing clips at the bottom of the intercooler that attach it to the shroud
*added the reusable thick teflon gaskets to all corners of the IC tools. I also painted the gaskets ford grey to match the intercoolers slightly instead of being all white.
*cleaned up all the steering fluid gunk that had accumulated due to my slow leak from the EVO valve (in retrospect, this is what probaly killed my pump)
*replaced steering pump with new Motorcraft refurbed unit. Oddly enough, the pumpt that came out appears to also have been a motorcraft refurbed unit. Flushed fluid thoroughly with cheap autozone fluid, then refilled one last time with good red Motorcraft Type F/Steering fluid.

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*While doing the fluid drain at the steering fluid cooler I knocked off the plastic radiator drain plug. The thing was so stripped I'm surprised it was still attached. This forced me to do a full coolant flush. I was not able to source a replacement plastic plug so I just used a zinc plated m12x1.25 with pilot tip and gasket. Fit perfectly, no leaks.

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The clincher....I finish the work, do a test drive, clean up the trunk of tools and junk and get it ready so I can drive it to work the next day. Get in the car the next morning, start driving off and.....squishy brake pedal. Looks like fluid leak in the passingere rear somewhere. So, that's the next thing to tackle on this basterd. I do miss it tho...the drive to the car felt pretty good.
 
And we're back on the road!!!

Patched the leaky brake line. It ended up being the line to the passenger side rear tire. One of the plastic line retainers right above the differential was rubbing against the line until it developed a pinhole leak. New line, fittings, fluid and bleed and we're back in action!

Steering job and brake line job seem to be working fine.

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Teal car got a new radiator a couple weeks ago. This all stems from the Chameleon car needing a rad due to small leak, but the Teal car gets a lot more use so it got a new rad, and the old rad will go in the chameleon car after a good refresh.

I was just able to finish the Teal's rad job tonight due to time constraints and I was waiting for a suitable drain valve to use instead of the stoopid plastic drain plugs. While doing the job I was pleasantly surprised that belts and hoses were all OEM Motorcraft, and in very good shape. Even OEM hose clamps! I decided to remove the belts and hoses and save them for the future. The job turned into:

*new Spectra premium radiator PN: CU1879
*new Stainless Steel bolts and washers for the intercooler bracket attached to the rad (now properly coated with anti-seize)
*Painted intercooler bracket and uber cleaned and conditioned the shroud
*new upper and lower rad hoses- I opted for Continental brand hoses since Continentals are the old Goodyear brand, great quality
*new coolant bypass hose at the thermostat housing - best one available is Gates, I also bought the Dayco but the Gates rubber is better quality
*new belts all around - Also opted for Continental Elite Poly V which are the old Goodyear Gatorbacks
*new Motorcraft rad cap
*new billet purge bolt and stainless steel cap (thanks to TBirdSC shop!)
*painted OEM hose clamps
*painted clip holding hose to the coolant reservoir
*did tons of cleaning in the rad support and subframe
*new EZ drain valve in the correct size for the Spectra rad. I opted for this since I could not find a cheap plastic drain petcock for the drain size in this radiator. I plan to keep up with fluid flushes so I need a good, clean way of draining the coolant.
*Fresh Motorcraft coolant

On to the pix!
OEM clamps for the coolant bypass hose



Different bypass hoses. OEM motorcraft at the top. The two bottom ones are Gates brand. I found two different part numbers. They look a bit different, but both work perfectly. I opted for using the next-to-last one. The rubber from the Dayco brand was way softer than the Gates brand.





Main serpentine belt was Dayco, but supercharger & jackshaft belts were OEM Motorcraft





Replacement belts



New Rad





Clean shroud









Rad cap





 
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