T56 swap

Shouldn't be difficult of a piece to have made.

Where did you have the master cylinder mount made for your clutch pedal?
Spacer is already on the way from mcleod. I had rob embry make it. The same guy that rebuilt my t56.
 
Well I got the transmission installed! Slave cylinder is just under1/8 inch clearance from the clutch and the hydraulic system is installed and bled. The clutch has a full pedal and seems to operate very well. I am waiting on the rear end and I have to modify the cross member and set the angle on the trans and it will be done!
 

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Good job Dave !

I noticed your headers are just as crooked as mine. Kooks must have made their prototype set using a car with a collapsed motor mount.

David
 
Crossmember

Got the crossmember modified and put in today. Here is WA list of the things a hade to do to make it work.
1. Remove the rubber bushings and cut the front bend portion off of the front of the crossmember
2. Acquire 2 4 5/8 long 2" wide 3/16 pieces of steel and have them welded to the crossmember. Have 2 holes drilled in the new pieces spaced 1 5/8" center to center from the old bolt holes to the new ones.
3. Test fit the brace to ensure that it fits. The large box of metal in the center of the crossmember has two rivets in it that must be removed. Remove that piece out of the crossmember before or after you test fit it and now you will see that the slot in the crossmember needs notched slightly to one side. The lengths I have explained are good for the lt1 t56 with a sbf bell housing.
 

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Driveshaft

Well I originally had the 4" drive shaft cut 56" center to center and I was a little short so the 4" driveshaft length for this swap is 56.75. Hope this helps anyone using the lt1 t56 and mcleod bellhousing.
 

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Driveshaft

Well I originally had the 4" drive shaft cut 56" center to center and I was a little short so the 4" driveshaft length for this swap is 56.75. Hope this helps anyone using the lt1 t56 and mcleod bellhousing.
 
Dave,

Is this header flange against the floor pan or just the camera angle ?

View attachment 63075

David
That's camera angle it sits exactly the same as yours do. The crossmember just doesn't use the rubber bushings anymore because of the depth of the transmission in the back in comparison to the m5r2. The transmission actually fits better in alot of ways as up posed to the m5.
 
Almost Home

Well I should have the drive train complete tomorrow as the rear end is done I just have to go pick it up tomorrow and get it in the car tomorrow night. I wont be able to drive the car for a bit because of the engine modifications I have made and the interior being out of the car. Hopefully I will be able to at least start it and move it on the weekend after april 10th.
 

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Installed

Well I got everything installed today and it all fits very well! Im exhausted but here are the pics of the finished product!
 

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Finally finished

As of the last update I had the entire drive train in the car but I ended up having to pull the dif because I used a mustang trac loc and the spider gears would not let the half shafts engage in the rear end. Corey Binks sent me some SC spider gears and I had it taken apart again. Tonight I got everything fitted back into the car and it is completely installed and fits very well. The clutch feels stock and the transmission runs through the gears very well. I still have some engine modifications to complete and some miscellaneous things like the idler pulleys to install as soon as I receive them. I am going to update the list of things I used in the first post for any of you who are interested in doing this swap in the future
 

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Looking great Dave

When I installed my C4 it was MUCH shorter than the M5R2 so I drilled out the spot welds on the mounts for the crossmember and moved the mounts forward about 6"....that was a real pain your solution worked out nicely.
 
Looking great Dave

When I installed my C4 it was MUCH shorter than the M5R2 so I drilled out the spot welds on the mounts for the crossmember and moved the mounts forward about 6"....that was a real pain your solution worked out nicely.

Thanks Brian actually the cross member was modified just like John Ludorfs car. It was one of the easiest modifications I did in the whole conversion because all I had to do was trim the edges off of the front side of the cross member and weld 2 2 5/8 3/16 steel plates to both sides and drill the new mounting holes 1 5/8 inches from the center of the old hole to the new one. I had to notch the hole in the center of the crossmember a bit and remove the block of steel and that was it!
 
Dave,

Do you have an NHRA legal drive shaft loop ? If not, now is the time to add one. Alan Brown was making them and he may have some in stock.

David
 
I do have a loop that I got from alan but it wasn't really a loop, it was a trapezoid. I took it to a local machine shop to have the button portion of it arched like a loop. I ordered new black rotors for it so I hope to get those and the drive shaft loop installed next Thursday friday while matt Haub and I are putting the interior in the car.
 
I do have a loop that I got from alan but it wasn't really a loop, it was a trapezoid. I took it to a local machine shop to have the button portion of it arched like a loop. I ordered new black rotors for it so I hope to get those and the drive shaft loop installed next Thursday friday while matt Haub and I are putting the interior in the car.

That's the same style drive shaft loop I'm using on both my SCs. Here is the one in my 93 SC. Looks like aluminum but it's actually steel that is painted silver.

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David
 
I do have a loop that I got from alan but it wasn't really a loop, it was a trapezoid. I took it to a local machine shop to have the button portion of it arched like a loop. I ordered new black rotors for it so I hope to get those and the drive shaft loop installed next Thursday friday while matt Haub and I are putting the interior in the car.

Dave i'd just leave it like it is thats perfectly fine! Ans basically how i made mine
 
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