Engine Rebuild and Pulley Questions

This is a great thread with a lot of great info.
I wanna mod my 89 so bad but its just to pristine to mess with. I should have kept my last 89 that blew a head gasket for the modifing. I was young dumb and poor then. lol
 
No reason to spend the money to go 4.2. My car made 500+ and well Binks made 700+ with a turbo, both 3.8s.
 
x2 unless your trying to get after every single last ponie dont bother, my 4.2 is no stronger than any of my 3.8s, and keeping the m90 the blower and manifold is a restriction way before the displacement comes into play or is concerned

spend the money where it will do the most good
 
Ignition wise, the stock 89-93 supercoupe ignition system is not as reliable or as efficient as the 94-95 EDIS ignition, so I would highly recommend replacing it with the 94+ setup, which will require, 94-95 EDIS module, module wiring harness to crank trigger, crank trigger itself, balancer 35 tooth reluctor ring, balancer itself, Im not sure if the 89 timing cover is the same as the 94-95 so you may have to verify it bolts up the same

This is a lot of work, that in my opinion is unnecessary. BTW, timing cover is not the same and would require a late model cover to mount the crank sensor. I agree with most of the other stuff you said but don't believe you are correct about using a 4" intake pipe or that a stock fuel pump can support 350 rwhp.

David
 
its not that much work, other than tapping into the wires at the tfi module conector its no more work than he would have otherwise with the engine being gone through, the spout (saw) and pip can be tapped at the tfi module wiring and if you dont plan on cleaning up the wiring it only takes 5 minutes, then just slap a chip on there for the ecu to spit out a saw instead of spout and all is done, its all the same regardless, not difficult at all


I believe you are correct on the pump, I thought the supercoupes came with 190L/hr pumps but they may have been 110, Ive always gone by the replacement size of 190 but I believe that to be incorrect


190*2.8*0.8=425 rwhp

a stock 110*2.8.0.8=246 rwhp

if you have a 110 you should replace it

calculations are my own from experiences described here for more info
http://info.efidynotuning.com/pre.htm

I recommend a 4" inlet to reduce pre blower restriction as much as possible as well as to give a stock slot meter ample headroom
 
its not that much work, other than tapping into the wires at the tfi module conector its no more work than he would have otherwise with the engine being gone through, the spout (saw) and pip can be tapped at the tfi module wiring and if you dont plan on cleaning up the wiring it only takes 5 minutes, then just slap a chip on there for the ecu to spit out a saw instead of spout and all is done, its all the same regardless, not difficult at all


I believe you are correct on the pump, I thought the supercoupes came with 190L/hr pumps but they may have been 110, Ive always gone by the replacement size of 190 but I believe that to be incorrect


190*2.8*0.8=425 rwhp

a stock 110*2.8.0.8=246 rwhp

if you have a 110 you should replace it

calculations are my own from experiences described here for more info
http://info.efidynotuning.com/pre.htm

I recommend a 4" inlet to reduce pre blower restriction as much as possible as well as to give a stock slot meter ample headroom

I'm saying why in the world would anyone change to a late model ignition system, when the early model ignition system works fine. Switching the balancer, crank sensor, the timing cover, the ignition module, the wiring harness ect... are not easy for the average SC owner.

Yes stock pump is only 110 lph

I think a 4" intake pipe with a slot meter is great, if you are moving enough air to make over 400 rwhp, for a near stock rebuild like this guy is doing it's OVERKILL.

David
 
I tend to agree with David that the direction of this build thread has went from a novice level to expert rather quickly...Please keep in mind there was confusion about just upgrading the blower in the first few posts...I think that should be considered when making build suggestions.


I'd still stick with cleaning the heads up, mild/streetable cam, blower upgrade, bolt ons and a tune. Very easily acheived with the budget mentioned and won't cause you to give up midway thru the process. If any money is left over a different rear gear will also make the car feel much quicker than stock.

As mentioned in my first post - my car was built from forum used parts or parts cars...some of which where people took on too big of a project only to give up and sell everything to try to recoupe the loss. I'd hate to see this happen here based on the suggestions to bite off more than one can chew.

-Tim
 
There's still a lot of good information being presented here, and the OP can probably decide how far he wants to go with it.

IMO, I was impressed with the length that decipha went to in putting together all of that information, including price points, and he was simply offering up his take on the matter, the same as we all are.

Anyway, the OP hasn't been back in awhile, maybe we scared him off, lol!
 
Not meant as a knock.

DD has posted a number of low budget builds that make noticeable differences.

I have no issues with what was previously mentioned other than I would concentrate on plug and play.

Moving on ECM changes is way beyond my scope.

Paul
 
Depends on how far you really want to go. But, I think a good stock rebuild is fine. As long as you have a good tune. That way, what ever you have left over can be spent on maybe a used mpx, intercooler and exhaust. I have a stock build in my car and it's plenty fast. It only has a base safe tune by Dave for now. So, there is a lot of room for more. You can go really fast with stock long block.
 
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