potshotscott
Registered User
Sweet! Thanks for the info on the PS pulley.
Anyway - here's my question the new timing cover does have a cam sensor on it but it's the wrong type. I need to transfer the SC sensor and the assembly inside that integrates into the front of the timing cover (I believe the shaft also drives the oil pump if I'm not mistaken. The SC timing cover has a hex head security screw on it; presumably to keep people from spinning it. Do I mark each part and carefully swap this? I feel as though the cam sensor somehow manages timing and if I put it in the new timing cover incorrectly I'm going to have a timing problem on my hands.
Right...that kit was to confirm.>Unfortunately this is only for the rear seal. I'm going the RTV route on the front
Right...that kit was to confirm.
If no move of the crank/cam and you marked the cam stalk, you should be ok.
If it doesn't fire...there's a pointer on the timing cover & large groove on the balancer. The groove on the balancer is 26 ATDC (#1) which is where you align the crank sensor, w/the alignment tool, and go again.
Good evening
Before putting on the timing chain cover are you - have you changed the oil pressure relief valve? Don't take a chance that the salvage yard unit is in good shape. You don't what to introduce a potential new problem. When I tear down a high mileage engine to this level a oil pump is a must for preventive maintenance. At the very least replace the gears (comes with the oil pressure relief valve, spring and cover) with a rebuild kit.
I agree with SCarSC. Rest base timing. Even though the timing chain tensioner is still functional the chain has some "stretch". There are procedures in Haynes and Chilton repair manual. If the time chain is not going to be changed just "stabbing it in" might introduce new problems (for example starting issues).
Good Luck.
the error that i made when replacing my cover and balancer was that i reinstalled the balancer prior to putting the cam stalk back in...and then i rotated the crank when tightening the balancer and screwed the positioning up...so assuming that you replace the stalk in the correct orientation before putting the balancer back on you should be good to go.
i didnt have a tool...i set it up like the threads i posted suggest. as far as setting the timing correctly, you can take out the front pass side spark plug, number one, and put a screw driver in there resting on the piston...rotate the crank by hand and watch the screwdriver rise...you will pass tdc once and then stop the second time at 26 atdc, stick in the camshaft stalk in the appropriate orientation and you are good to go.
I will second this - this is by far the easiest and most fool proof way to set timing on these engines without any sort of fancy tools or real mechanical knowledge.
Remove plug #1 Passenger Front Plug. Rotate the engine till the piston is TDC (top dead center)...again a screw driver in the hole...you'll be able to feel the piston on the upward stroke. If you go to far you can feel it go down..again it's easy to make happen. at this point install the cover, the and the balancer. the Cam stalk ...just set the half moon the same as other write ups show. Just position the half moon correctly and you'll be good to go.
-Tim
So technically I could put it all back together and then align the balancer to the groove and then align the cam stalk and it will run correctly?
i didnt have a tool...i set it up like the threads i posted suggest. as far as setting the timing correctly, you can take out the front pass side spark plug, number one, and put a screw driver in there resting on the piston...rotate the crank by hand and watch the screwdriver rise...you will pass tdc once and then stop the second time at 26 atdc, stick in the camshaft stalk in the appropriate orientation and you are good to go.