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Thread: motor removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    motor removal

    Hey guys.

    An update on superpoop. Its been almost a year since it exploded and we are getting ready to get it back roadworthy.

    Anyone got a link or can help me with motor removal that would be great. I feel totally unprepared for it and don't want to create more work when I don't need to.

    Neill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    Couple tips to make the removal easier.
    Drain the fluids from the engine and coolant system.
    Removed the hood. You can lay it on the roof of the car.
    Remove both cowlings, the windshield wiper motor tray and the passenger tray. It will make easier to access the two transmission bolts located on top. They are nearly impossible to remove from the bottom.
    Remove all the belts.
    Remove the air filter and the hose connecting to the TB
    Remove the supercharger , TB and the intake tube as one piece. You will need to disconnect the intake coupling, the air cooler and the electrical connectors on the TB. If the car has cooling lines for the TB ( 1990 model) you need to disconnect it before removal. The line is under the TB.
    Disconnect and remove the fuel rail. Early model have bolt on the back of driver cylinder head. Cowling being removed helps a lot to remove that bolt.
    Remove the Alternator and the steering pump pulley. You will need a pulley puller tool do so.
    Consider removing the radiator fan.
    Remove the jackshaft/ AC bracket and the alternator bracket (the big black metal pieces). You need do it to gain access to the motor mounts and disconnect the wiring attached to each side of the engine.
    Do not forget to disconnect the knock sensor, low oil level sensor.
    You also need to disconnect the starter and the four torque converter bolts. Make sure to mark the position of the fly wheel on the torque converter. Ensure that you reinstall it exactly the way it was. Before putting the engine back in, make sure the torque converter is fully seated. While underneath the car place a jack under the transmission so it won't drop down when you pull the engine. It will keep from stretching the hydraulic lines and create future leaks.
    Of course disconnect all the exhaust, collant hose, and vacuum stuff. Do not forget to disconnect the o2 sensor on the driver side.
    Disconnect the two cooling lines going to/ from the heater core on the fire wall.

    I only listed the main items. The will be a few more but mainly electrical connectors.
    If you have never done this you can count on 8 hours or so.

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    Last edited by Falcon20x; 07-01-2015 at 07:41 PM.
    Check out my 1993 White Auto SC page for video on how to ..
    1990 35th anniversary SC restoration project
    1990 Blue Auto SC

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Raleigh, North Carolina
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    some dude posted an engine removal on youtube. i watched it a few times just to see someone else doing it. Its not rocket science. tips... get a box of quart ziploc bags, a roll of blue painters tape, a sharpie, and a camera. place fasteners and clips in bags and label them where they go. label each connector on the wiring harness with blue tape. take pictures of each area you before you begin disassembling and especially when it comes to wire routing. take your time... try not to break clips or strip bolts.

    Here is a link to that video...

    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  4. #4
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    Apr 2012
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    So funny. That car was local to me and I almost bought it.
    The engine never ran right after the swap and the car had been wrecked. Not to mention the paint job.

    There is no need to drop the exhaust like he did. Much easier to remove the 2 bolts on each headers. The Ac does not need to be disconnected either.
    Not removing the cowling will make it a pain to put the engine back in.
    Check out my 1993 White Auto SC page for video on how to ..
    1990 35th anniversary SC restoration project
    1990 Blue Auto SC

  5. #5
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    Dec 2007
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    And...
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  6. #6
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    yeah, its not the best video, but sometimes i learn what not to do by watching others. I took everything apart when i did it. i even removed the wiring harnesses. but i did that to clean the engine bay and paint it. i also re-taped my wiring harness with fresh tape.

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    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
    Posts
    6,335
    Quote Originally Posted by dthompson View Post
    I took everything apart when i did it.
    And the effort shows - good lesson for anyone when the engine is out...can I ask what you used to trim the airbox?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    And the effort shows - good lesson for anyone when the engine is out...can I ask what you used to trim the airbox?
    lol, you are going to laugh. its copper pipe insulation... something like...

    http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
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    Actually, that's what I thought it was after I kept looking at it...good news is I think I have some new out in the shed, thanks

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    76
    Holy inspiration batman!

    I have seen that thumbnail on YouTube before and I honestly can't remember why I haven't watched it?

    Kmt looks like you have done this a few times!

    Dthompson thanks for the advice on that, I'm always terrified of losing something important when I take on a larger projects like that. I think this is why I wanted to see how someone else does it.

    I will be doing this slowly and taking my time with it all just because it will take me a while to get the other parts in. I'm swapping the headgaskets out while the new motor is out so at least I don't have that to worry about in the future.

    Its possibly worth getting a balancer as well? I don't want to disturb the motor too much with it being a running engine but I would like to prepare for any ~~~~ failures in the future.

    Neill

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Grafton, OHIO
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    622
    Quote Originally Posted by dthompson View Post
    some dude posted an engine removal on youtube. i watched it a few times just to see someone else doing it. Its not rocket science. tips... get a box of quart ziploc bags, a roll of blue painters tape, a sharpie, and a camera. place fasteners and clips in bags and label them where they go. label each connector on the wiring harness with blue tape. take pictures of each area you before you begin disassembling and especially when it comes to wire routing. take your time... try not to break clips or strip bolts.

    Here is a link to that video...



    The Ziploc thing is a lifesaver, especially when the job ends up taking longer than expected, and it will, and your memory is shot , like mine

    I also like to wire wheel all threads, and if trying to pretty things up I rattle can the bolt heads. Wire wheel the whole bolt, degrease, soak in metal etcher for a few minutes, a light dust of self etching primer, then color. I hold them by punching holes in an old cardboard box, then sticking the threads down in a little. Always chip off some paint when putting them back in, but they don't rust as quick as doing nothing. A little redneck, I know, but they look good for quite a while on non winter driven cars.

    I also use either loc-tite, or anti-sieze on EVERYTHING. Esspecially going into aluminum

    Also if you've got the bux a BHJ balancer is ALWAYS a good upgrade. This goes double if you remove the stocker, they don't seem to like being reinstalled? I understand there is a better replacement stock type balancer ava now, I have not used one yet, but have heard good things, just DO NOT use the Dorman unit.The engineers who decided an aluminum hub on a blown car was a good idea should b beaten half to death with a failed balancer


    Adam
    Last edited by aroot1; 07-02-2015 at 08:37 AM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by superpoop View Post

    Kmt looks like you have done this a few times
    Not mine...just shots I pulled off here over time, that I thought might be a good reference when my time comes.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by aroot1 View Post
    The Ziploc thing is a lifesaver, especially when the job ends up taking longer than expected, and it will, and your memory is shot , like mine

    I also like to wire wheel all threads, and if trying to pretty things up I rattle can the bolt heads. Wire wheel the whole bolt, degrease, soak in metal etcher for a few minutes, a light dust of self etching primer, then color. I hold them by punching holes in an old cardboard box, then sticking the threads down in a little. Always chip off some paint when putting them back in, but they don't rust as quick as doing nothing. A little redneck, I know, but they look good for quite a while on non winter driven cars.

    I also use either loc-tite, or anti-sieze on EVERYTHING. Esspecially going into aluminum

    Also if you've got the bux a BHJ balancer is ALWAYS a good upgrade. This goes double if you remove the stocker, they don't seem to like being reinstalled? I understand there is a better replacement stock type balancer ava now, I have not used one yet, but have heard good things, just DO NOT use the Dorman unit.The engineers who decided an aluminum hub on a blown car was a good idea should b beaten half to death with a failed balancer


    Adam
    I do have an aftermarket balancer on the old motor I was hoping to use. But if they don't like being taken out and reinstalled I figure I would skip this step.

    Dorman parts tend to be pretty shoddy quality I have found. Especially their mustang mass air flow sensors. Bought one. CEL and misfire issues. Sent it back and got another, a totally new set of issues relating to stalling out, rough running and cold start no start. Stock replacement? No problem! I'm not a big dorman fan!

    I'll be sure to pretty everything up while the motor is out. I have some rust on the cover plates around the shock towers which I would like to address. The car will also be going black at some point providing funds allow.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by dthompson View Post
    yeah, its not the best video, but sometimes i learn what not to do by watching others. I took everything apart when i did it. i even removed the wiring harnesses. but i did that to clean the engine bay and paint it. i also re-taped my wiring harness with fresh tape.

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    Looks great !

    David
    1991 SC AOD 4.2..2.3 Whipple..........10.910 @ 125.61
    2016 SRT Challenger Hellcat...............707HP/650TQ

    My Garage

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Neibert View Post
    Looks great !

    David
    Thanks David, it was a lot of work, but as you already know....it's rewarding when you love these cars as much as we do.
    Any idiot can make a Mustang fast...
    It takes a special idiot to make a Thunderbird fast!!!
    89 SC 4.3 stroker 384rwhp 473ftlbs
    Best ET 13.085 Best MPH 106.6... got some work to do!
    2016 V6 M90 Dyno Champ 2016 Mod 1 Runner Up

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