Abs pump motor FIXED!!!!!

In the meantime, I'm giving this a try. Cant beat Amazon at $3.00 for a try. From a Honda ST1300 dirtbike. Ordered it today to my local MC parts store.

HONDA 91209-MCS-000 OIL SEAL (8X16X5.5)
by Honda

$2.85new(1 offer)

JJ
 
james5275 said:
In the meantime, I'm giving this a try. Cant beat Amazon at $3.00 for a try. From a Honda ST1300 dirtbike. Ordered it today to my local MC parts store.

HONDA 91209-MCS-000 OIL SEAL (8X16X5.5)
by Honda

$2.85new(1 offer)

JJ
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You could probably pull and replace the seal later without disassembling the motor case, so it's not such a bad idea.

I don't think the brake fluid will totally eat the nitrile, but I think it will swell it over time. The radial seal has a pretty tight tolerance, so I don't think nitrile would be good for long-term use. For a static seal like an o-ring or face seal, it might be ok.
 
if its glycol-based brake fluids then Nitrile is not recommended per this chart.

I prefer EPDM. I have used it in both acidic and caustic conditions with excellent results.
 
A1cntrler said:
Used this service last summer from Bill. Worked out well and I was pleased with the results.
Click to expand...


Not sure why they claim the pressure switch is obsoleted, tho - I replaced mine just a few months back and had no issues finding a new one (and a slightly used tool to make the job easier).
 
KMT said:
Not sure why they claim the pressure switch is obsoleted, tho - I replaced mine just a few months back and had no issues finding a new one (and a slightly used tool to make the job easier).
Click to expand...

The tool makes it so much easier in my opinion...just found mine after using it about 15 yrs ago on my first SC. I found the original OTC tool that I bought from CarQuest.
 
Honda seal

I know I said I was done with this post, but just wanted to report the Honda seal mentioned above is installed and working. First time my pump hasn't leaked in years. Been driving the car for a couple days, zero abs issues. Motor assembly and installation went just fine even with the engine installed. Hardest part was getting the motor shaft keyed properly in the pump. Reverse bled the system from the left front wheel only, all is good at the moment.

I'll report back eventually if anything changes. This seal is a direct fit, only issue is the material it's made of, which I honestly don't know. May last a month, May last years.

If anybody wants a write up I'll be glad to do it. If anybody has a junk motor laying around please share it with me and I'll document the process with pics.

JJ
 
Thats good new james.

There is a secondary seal for the motor housing to pump that is a square cut flat ring, and there are 2 inner Orings that seal the "screen" inside the pump housing. The issue i've had with older ones is that they have swollen or cracked or otherwise stretched out so that I can't reseal the motor adequately. Does anyone know where we could get the EPDM rings?
 
Yes I know exactly what you're talking about, mine were in good shape so I reused them. Several EPDM oring suppliers came up on google, I don't think those will be hard to find. Just need a size, of course I didn't measure mine.

JJ
 
I have the sizes for those seals written down somewhere, but not close at hand. I can re-measure from a spare motor and pump I have.

I think the O-ring was a standard size. I didn't find a standard size for the flat circular seal. You can cut one out of EPDM sheet (McMaster-Carr), or it would be pretty easy to get custom ones cut.

James, I'm glad to hear the motor rebuild went well. I doubt the nitrile seal will last as long as the original, but I figure it will hold up for at least a little while.
 
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S_Mazza said:
Good news. I was able to place an order for a run of seals. These will be in the common 8x16x6 size, double lip, but made in EPDM.

There will be only two differences from the original seal:
- The original was 5.5mm tall, but this seal is 6mm. I don't think this is any problem, as the housing bore is tall enough to take the extra 0.5mm.
- The original had a ribbed outside diameter (OD). These replacements will have a smooth OD. The ribs are supposed to make offer slight advantages, but I think the plain OD will work well enough. The ribs seem to be more for situations where housing tolerances are loose, but these housings seem pretty nicely made. Getting the ribbed OD would have quadrupled the cost of the order because of setup costs for new tooling. So the benefits didn't seem to justify the added cost.

There is some lead time for this order. I was quoted 8-10 weeks.

Before the seals come in, I will start a new thread, either in the "New Products and Services" sub-forum, or in "Parts for Sale". I will add specs and pricing for anyone who is considering a purchase. Pricing is yet to be determined - I know my costs for the order, but I haven't sat down to figure out exactly the best way to ship these. Quantity discounts could be arranged too. In any case, the price of a seal will not break the bank - trust me. This is not a scheme to get rich quick (or even slow).

Also:
I am considering ordering a small quantity of appropriately sized motor brushes and terminals. By the time a seal is worn out, the brushes are probably close too. To open the motor and replace the brushes is a little bit harder than just replacing the end seal, as you can tell from the pics in the original post. You need a decently powerful soldering iron and some experience. One of the terminals is standard, but one is special, as it incorporates a thermal breaker. If you break that, I don't know where in the world you would buy one. So you do run a risk of ruining your motor if you tackle the brush replacement ... but the motor will eventually stop working if you just ignore it. Also, if you let the brushes wear out, the brush holders can drag on the commutator and get damaged, which is not good either. For reference, I would say that the brushes shown in the first post are at least 80% used up.

I am not very interested in starting a rebuilding service for these, as I am really just an amateur. If someone wants a rebuild service, they should try contacting the usual SC vendors, like Bill at www.SuperCoupePerformance.com. Or call Jose who is mentioned earlier in this thread. He is a real pro at this.

I am just trying to help make parts available where they are needed, and to let others take advantage of the experience I gained through trial and error.
Click to expand...

Did these ABS pump motor seals and brushes very become reality? If they did, I'm in need of the seals and brushes.

Thanks.
 
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SuperChicken89 said:
Did these ABS pump motor seals and brushes very become reality? If they did, I'm in need of the seals and brushes.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the delay, I just saw this. The shaft seal is still holding on my car, but i didn't replace the brushes when I did the seal because it was experimental. Maybe someone else can chime in on brushes.

Also keep in mind I only drive my car in the summer months so it's not an accurate gauge on success.

JJ
 
I just had to tear my motor apart and clean it out. It was locked up from all of the crud in it. Although this is an old thread, I hope someone sees and knows the answers. It looks like a contact on one of these tabs. Is it? Is there supposed to be one on both tabs? Which way do they go, both on same side of plastic or on each side?

20221106_214750.jpg20221106_214647.jpg
 
Thanks for the update.
Glad you finally got it
fixed & don't need to switch/convert to conventional.
 
It's not fixed. I need to know how these tabs go. If the motor doesn't run after that, I'll be converting. Thanks for all of your help.
 
Sorry, I was going by title of the posting.

I think you've got replies going in 5 different posting's regarding this topic.
 
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I posted in this one just because I had seen someone had rebuilt the motor. The other posts are for troubleshooting the whole issue. I'll be done with all of these when and if the abs works. If not, it's on to conversion. That's not completely answered so I'll have a couple questions there if and when I do that.
 
was locked up from all of the crud in it
Click to expand...

Which likely means the end seal gave up was letting brake fluid into the motor, and in time, if that motor runs, you'll be right back to where you started. I would flag that motor as junk and not bother trying to save it.
 
Yeah I don't plan on it lasting. I am just hoping it works long enough to be able to finish tuning it before my time runs out for the assistance doing that. At this time I just need to know how those tabs go.
 
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