5.0 Coyote Swap Project Thread

Are the new AJE k-member/control arms any better than the old ones? I'd love to save the weight, but I seem to recall a lot of people saying they were really drag race-only parts.

See the flat plate around the shock mount on the lower control arm? That is new from the old style that didn't have any support there. The old ones would bent there at the shock mount. I don't know anyone that has used the new design yet to see if it will hold up.
 
Will you please do me a favor? Will you measure the width and length of the K member? I suppose I could do it while it's mounted in the car but if you're willing to do it while it's out that would be MOST helpful.

Width from mount to mount 34.75", length at bottom tube ends 21.125", height 9". Mine is old style. Looks a little different from the new.
 
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Width from mount to mount 34.75", length at bottom tube ends 21.125", height 9". Mine is old style. Looks a little different from the new.

Thank you! Edit - are these the measurements from the old stock unit? (That's what I'm interested in).
 
Just a little update. The stock Coyote oil pan will not fit on the stock k member or the AJE k member. I thought a low profile coyote oil pan was going to work but it will not fit either. I have to make a custom oil pan and that is out of my skill level since I have zero welding experience. I called Moroso and Canton for a bid and Moroso won by $300. The pan's sump should hold over 7 quarts plus the oil filter 8 quarts for the system. The part that sucks, the oil pan will take 6 weeks to build and get plated.

Second with the exhaust, I was planing on cutting off the Kooks flange and having the coyote flange welded on in it's place. I find it too risky for screwing up a perfect pair of headers so I'm going to see if I can have the kooks flange welded on top of the coyote flange. Not sure how the clearance will work out until I have the engine in the car.

BTW if you buy a 2011-12 coyote engine you will need coarse threaded exhaust studs and nuts to bolt your headers. 2013 and newer are fine threads. Just found that out today.

Lastly, I guess I'm not the only one this winter dropping in a coyote, I've had a three guys message me on Facebook and SCCoA that are doing the same project. Coyote MN12-FN10's taking over soon!


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Question. IS the issue with oil pan not fitting due to the engine being lowered for fitment? Also the coyote is about the same length but height and width are different I believe. That being said Id be scared to use any header made for the 4.6 and mn12 as it may have to be really chopped up to work. Have you tried factory 5.0 manifold clearance? Ive always thought a 6 speed auto and coyote in an lsc would be sweet and they now have the control pack for that setup..So My minds been wandering..And factory k member wont work?

THANKS!
 
Like a glove! This was a test fit to make sure the oil pan measurements and headers are going to fit. And they do. Kooks headers will clear the K member. Just put my order in for the oil pan. Should be here in 5 weeks.

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Question. IS the issue with oil pan not fitting due to the engine being lowered for fitment? Also the coyote is about the same length but height and width are different I believe. That being said Id be scared to use any header made for the 4.6 and mn12 as it may have to be really chopped up to work. Have you tried factory 5.0 manifold clearance? Ive always thought a 6 speed auto and coyote in an lsc would be sweet and they now have the control pack for that setup..So My minds been wandering..And factory k member wont work?

THANKS!

The issue is the Coyote oil pan sump is too long. MN12 Kooks headers from SCP clear the k member. I don't think the factory k member will work. I've been told you have to cut and modify the stock k member.
 
I think it's 27" tall from the ole inter webs. Just eye ballin it I don't think a stock hood would work. I have a 3" VFN cowl hood.
 
Updates...

The headers.

So I bought turbo exhaust flanges from JEGS and the diameter of the port holes were 1.75". My MN12 Kooks headers have the 1.50" primary. I bought a steel tube from a welding shop with an OD of 1.75" and an ID of 1.50" perfect, only $5, they were going to scrap it. I cut the steel tube into 8 rings to have welded in the flange so I could match the 1.50" primary. I than had the headers welded on top of the flange. I just got them back this week and did a test fit, they are golden. The driver side is a little tight but it will work. I also had a extra O2 bung welded in for my wideband. So they are done for the most part, I just got them back from the machine shop. After all the welding, the heat will warp the flange, so I had them flatten the mounting side. Next week I'm having them ceramic coated.

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The oil pan.

I have not done a test fit yet, I have to take the engine out and make sure the pick-up and oil pan for sure fit. Then I will drop the engine in again for good to make sure the oil pan is good.

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Brakes and suspension.


I replaced my old Ed brackets with Dave's CNC brackets, they are really nice. These are for Cobra rotors in the rear. I also did a Mustang 4.50 hub swap and bought new UHMW knuckle and lower arm bushings for the rear. New Cobra rotors and pads, braided brakes lines, Reman Corvette calipers, Reman rear T-Bird calipers and wheel spacers for Mustang rims.

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SpeedHut gauges


Man these are cool! Can't wait to have these in. The speedo is GPS, no VSS to plug into. Turn signal and flash built in. Made in the USA.

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Lastly, things are going pretty smooth. I'm running out of money and excuses for the wife to buy car parts with the credit card. I'm currently looking for another Mustang GT to part out or flip to help finish this project. I'm hoping to be done by May 1st. That is the plan for now. But we all know that doesn't happen so for right now, wishful thinking.

Thanks for looking!

Josh
 
oxman, you always have an awesome project going on that i envy....
you should get a cougar 1997 sport and put yamaha sho engine in it, the v6 one ! now i think that would be a cool car..wish i had the skills to do swaps and stuff. if i did id save my tbird and hunt for a nice 94 v6 stang and supercoupe swap it.but im dumb dumb..

rock on josh !
 
Nice build. I'm sure we all appreciate the step by step & technical information as you're going along. Not too many people like to give that out. They have a "learn at your expense" mentality.
I'm looking at doing a complete Cobra transformation but the CoyotE swap has crossed my mind many times.
Good luck, keep up the journey.
Mark
 
Nice build. I'm sure we all appreciate the step by step & technical information as you're going along. Not too many people like to give that out. They have a "learn at your expense" mentality.
I'm looking at doing a complete Cobra transformation but the CoyotE swap has crossed my mind many times.
Good luck, keep up the journey.
Mark

Thank you, it has been a journey since 2011 with different motors and superchargers. Hope this is the last set up for a long time.

Hey if anyone has questions feel free to email or PM me. oxbd64@hotmail.com

There are a couple guys that have done this swap already and they have been helpful with info and I appreciate that for sure.




Another update

The oil pan fits. The pick up is spot on. With the headers, oil pan the starter fits with no clearance issues.

Used some silly puddy to see what the clearence from the bottom of the sump.

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If you get a 2011+ Mustang 5.0 the oil adapter will hit the sway bar. You can replace it with one from a 2011+ F150 5.0, get a oil cooler / remote oil filter kit. I found a F150 adapter cheap on eBay for $20.

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Headers and oil pan, coming together!

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