1989 SC needs to run mid 12s

Wasn't asking about coolant temp, sorry - I assume, tho the engine is at least riding on the stat and it is still stock spec.

Just curious about charge air temps in/out of the IC. I use a gauge with dual needles and sensors on the IC in/out.

Do you just want improved flow thru the IC, or better cooling? One of Ken's dual-core ICs would be interesting to try.

And sure both better flow and better cooling, but when you improve flow, you loose backpressure, which leads to less boost on the gauge, which leads to more pulley, which leads to higher ACTS, which leads to more IC, which reduces backpressure, etc. etc. Back on the cascade/slippery slope train. The best way to stay off that train is to avoid doing anything that aggressively dumps heat into the charge air in the bargain. I'd want to do all I could to not add more heat, while removing as much as possible from what's already there, first. If that results in more flow, fine, but in your example, I'd resist higher flow as a primary goal.

A raised top will -modify- flow, but just keep in mind it isn't so much an adder as a means to shift the power band higher. I like mine, but as I said, it moved the power higher in the rpm range, taking a bit away from the bottom, but nothing 7% over didn't cure, keeping in mind my goals are different from yours.

Are you still bound by a rules budget?

I understood what you were asking on the ACTs, I just kind of went off the rails with the whole coolant temp thing. But what I was getting at is that the car runs so cool on the ethanol that heat isn't much of an issue even with the ACTs being super high with the 15% overdrive. The ethanol burns so cool in the chamber that the car never even gets hot. It barely moves the gauge even after a pass. I did not mention that I never even turned the cooling fan on this past weekend. Back when I would run 110 octane gasoline I would have to turn the fan on in the shut down area and keep it running until I started my burnout for the next pass. On the E85 I am thinking about just removing it to save weight, it is that much of a difference.

Interesting you say that about the raised top. It desperately needs the high rpm power. Maybe I need to get one of those tops and work on the intercooler. I think anything to increase the flow at full tilt is going to help. I like the idea of a double intercooler because I can keep the stock look but on the other hand, I can get something like an Isuzu NPR cooler for about $100 and then make my own tubes. I am not sure what I will do at this point. Sounds like the raised top might be a first step.

I am not trying to stay in the $500 budget at this point as that junkyard class has gone away. I definitely have more than that in the car now but at the same time, I would sell the car all day long for the $3,000 that the Roadkill event stipulates. I am hoping I can get in one of the Roadkill zip tie events in the future but I am certain I will need to be in the 11s to win one of those.
 
Just wanted to point out something you mentioned about e85 and your wideband. While the A/F ratio needed for e85 is different, stoich is still stoich. So when you have a "gas" gauge or "e85" gauge its just a conversion from lambda so you can tune an e85 setup with a gas gauge you just use the same numbers as gas because its just a representation of lambda.
 
Just wanted to point out something you mentioned about e85 and your wideband. While the A/F ratio needed for e85 is different, stoich is still stoich. So when you have a "gas" gauge or "e85" gauge its just a conversion from lambda so you can tune an e85 setup with a gas gauge you just use the same numbers as gas because its just a representation of lambda.

We figured this out after some internet research. As you also probably know, the tuning window for E85 is much wider, meaning you can run it rich and still make power and I take full advantage of that. It seems to like an AFR of 10.5 to 11.0:1. Any less than 10.5 and the car seems to get a little soggy. Any higher than 11.0:1 seems to slow down a hair. I think the extra little bit of fuel from 10.5 to 11.0 probably helps with the inlet temps too. We need all the help we can get on that front of course.

We've been talking about maybe mixing in 20% methanol with the E85 just to see what happens. We'd need to flush the whole fuel system after each event but it might be fun. As of now we have no events on the schedule so the car has been sitting. We've got a laundry list of new parts to go on it but nothing to prepare it for.
 
That is going in the Mustang with a Powerglide and Holley Dominator fuel injection.

I'd love to put the Holley system on the T-bird, I have it on a 1994 Cobra already, it is fantastic.
 
It looks like it is time to get the old Tbird out of hibernation.

We are going to two events in the next three months. First we'll be terrorizing Buick Grand Nationals and LS powered vehicles at the Buick versus Ford Shootout in Noble, OK on October 19th. Then we'll be driving out to Tucson for Roadkill's zip tie drags on January 17-18th to participate in the Hooptie Challenge.

We are going to do a few things to add more heat under the hood and get us past that 104 mph barrier that we seemed to be up against in the last couple of outings. I have managed to secure a double intercooler, extrude honed intercooler tubes, raised blower top, 85mm throttle body and a 90mm mass air. Lastly, we'll be installing a Kirkey road race style containment seat for a little more safety. This will be done before the October 19th race.

We have already reworked the fuel system with a new Weldon pump and PTFE lined braided hose that is E85 friendly.

I am working on a list of second round improvements that we will be doing before the January race. We are going to convert to fully manual brakes using a Crown Vic master cylinder, replace the oil pump and add some real gauges to the car.

Pictures to follow.
 
I think at some point you may find a hood helps you get some more MPH as you are not so wind resistant without it. If you can't fit a stock hood you might be able to find someone selling a fiberglass cowl or cobra r hood.
 
I think at some point you may find a hood helps you get some more MPH as you are not so wind resistant without it. If you can't fit a stock hood you might be able to find someone selling a fiberglass cowl or cobra r hood.

I agree completely, I have been watching sale ads for a used hood for a while. I would even take one with a corner knocked off of it. We may take the stock hood and remove the whole underside to get it down to a thin sheet of metal, then we can pin it on. i am not sure if that is possible but we can try since we don't care about paint. We also have not gutted the underside of the decklid but that is coming at some point.
 
Beautiful windsor. Love the belt drive, wish we had one for the 3.8/4.2.
 
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I agree completely, I have been watching sale ads for a used hood for a while. I would even take one with a corner knocked off of it. We may take the stock hood and remove the whole underside to get it down to a thin sheet of metal, then we can pin it on. i am not sure if that is possible but we can try since we don't care about paint. We also have not gutted the underside of the decklid but that is coming at some point.

If you're out near southern Indiana for anything, let me know. I'll donate a hood for your project!
 
If you're out near southern Indiana for anything, let me know. I'll donate a hood for your project!

Actually I am going to be, I am driving up to Indy in early December for the PRI show. I am driving because I need to visit a friend in Peoria, IL on the way back to get a set of wheels and tires for the mustang. What kind of hood do you have?
 
Actually I am going to be, I am driving up to Indy in early December for the PRI show. I am driving because I need to visit a friend in Peoria, IL on the way back to get a set of wheels and tires for the mustang. What kind of hood do you have?

I've got a red one off a 93 that you can have...nothing pretty. Clear coat is peeled and there is a spot where the paint was missing for some reason and has surface rust now. I think there may be a small dent there.

I've go a blue hood and a white hood too (both 89's), which are in a little better shape - no dents or rust on the top, but paint is shot on both of them too. If you feel like driving down this way from Indy, shoot me a message!
 
I've got a red one off a 93 that you can have...nothing pretty. Clear coat is peeled and there is a spot where the paint was missing for some reason and has surface rust now. I think there may be a small dent there.

I've go a blue hood and a white hood too (both 89's), which are in a little better shape - no dents or rust on the top, but paint is shot on both of them too. If you feel like driving down this way from Indy, shoot me a message!

I see, I would really like to find a fiberglass one but may take you up on that.
 
If you r concerned about weight, a stocker with some of the support frame removed may b the way to go. Possibly with the addition of an after market cowl or one cut out of another vehicle, as another member posted here not to long ago.

I've had 3 different glass hoods, all were 2 layer. Top and finished underside bonded together. They were HEAVY. Never put on scale but they felt significantly heavier than stock.

Adam
 
Any fiberglass hood is way lighter than stock. I once cut a stock hood down to just the sheetmetal. It was still heavier than it looked and was super flimsy. Surely someone has a broken fiberglass hood around that you could snag cheap. You could cut out most of the underside if you wanted to lighten it. A single layer fiberglass hood is way stronger than a single layer steel one too. Maybe an option would be to gut a stock hood and then get a really wide fiberglass cowl scoop and just rivet it on. Would stiffen it up and you could cut out all the metal underneath making it much lighter in the process.
 
Any fiberglass hood is way lighter than stock. I once cut a stock hood down to just the sheetmetal. It was still heavier than it looked and was super flimsy. Surely someone has a broken fiberglass hood around that you could snag cheap. You could cut out most of the underside if you wanted to lighten it. A single layer fiberglass hood is way stronger than a single layer steel one too. Maybe an option would be to gut a stock hood and then get a really wide fiberglass cowl scoop and just rivet it on. Would stiffen it up and you could cut out all the metal underneath making it much lighter in the process.

My thoughts exactly, I just need to find one. I'd even take some ridiculous flea market one with extra scoops. What I would like to do is get it down to a single layer and just pin it on with quick latches. We have used them on the Mustang for the hood and they are very nice.
 
My thoughts exactly, I just need to find one. I'd even take some ridiculous flea market one with extra scoops. What I would like to do is get it down to a single layer and just pin it on with quick latches. We have used them on the Mustang for the hood and they are very nice.

There is a fiberglass cowl hood for sale in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada. I am not affiliated with the seller and have no idea if he would ship it.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-p...od/1462722420?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
 
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