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Thread: Car dies at Idle

  1. #1
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    Car dies at Idle

    Recently, I was doing some work on the cooling system..IE flush, hose and thermostat replacement. I disconnected the battery so my hands wouldn't get chopped off by the fan errantly turning on. When reconnecting the battery, the car ran like crap for about 10 minutes, ,which I sort of expected with the computer having to re-learn it's settings. That being said and done, I drove her around and she ran great until it dropped to an idle at a signal light and after a few seconds or a minute, she died. Started right back up and ran great for a few minutes, then died again. I checked for any DTC codes and found none.

    I also replaced 2 of the 4 SC gaskets with those new fangled plastic ones, not sure if that matters. I don't drive the car much (only 61K) on the clock, but it's summer in the Desert so I want to take her out. Any thoughts? Oh, I cleaned the MAF too. With the AC on, it does not die as the RPMs are up a bit.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Stall at idle

    Someone somewhere recommended that I check the IAC. Anyone have a picture of where that is? is there an electrical test for that part or just replace it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    380
    Good afternoon

    Pull codes. Check for vacuum leaks.


    Try search.


    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...-top-of-engine

    http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...nd-funny-noise



    Good Luck.

  4. #4
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    Idle

    I checked codes, none found. No vacuum leaks found, getting 18-20 in at idle. I cleaned the IAC and MAF and that seems to have helped.

    thanks

  5. #5
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    Idle / RPM

    Anyone know what the RPM / Idle should be for a 95 SC - AT AC off while in drive, stopped with engine fully warm. I have a Ford Service Manual but for the life of me cannot find it in there. Also, which plug wire is used to tap for a timing / RPM light. Is it the #1 plug like most old cars? I've got most of the vacuum leaks fixed but it seems to still be a bit low. It's at 515-550, if I'm using the correct plug wire.

    Thanks

  6. #6
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    [QUOTE=1qwik99;1104855]Anyone know what the RPM / Idle should be for a 95 SC - AT AC off while in drive, stopped with engine fully warm.

    Should be on the sticker on the header.

    Try 650 in drive. 700~800 neutral.

    No idea on which plug wire...waste spark might make it difficult

    Ken

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Good evening


    You could check engine relearn idle with approximately 10 miles in stop and go traffic. This should if all the discrepancies are fixed complete the engine relearn for idle.


    Good Luck.

  8. #8
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    Tb

    [QUOTE=KMT;1104859]
    Quote Originally Posted by 1qwik99 View Post
    Anyone know what the RPM / Idle should be for a 95 SC - AT AC off while in drive, stopped with engine fully warm.

    Should be on the sticker on the header.

    Try 650 in drive. 700~800 neutral.

    No idea on which plug wire...waste spark might make it difficult

    Ken
    Still a small EGR leak but fixed the big ones. Took neg battery cable off to relearn. Ran it today for about an hour, it was fully warm as fans came on. Did not stall once, but idle is at about 550 in drive. Do you think EGR leak could be the cause? The car only has 61K and that is the only valve or sensor left that I haven't replaced. I did run a vacuum test and it does leak down a bit and the smoke test confirmed it.

  9. #9
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    Wellllll...not sure if it's the cause, but - with EGR valves, I'd be more worried about exhaust gases getting into the cabin. Problem on our cars, obviously, is lack of room to work, so I'm sympathetic to putting it off without good cause, etc.

    Is the 550 on the dash tach?. If you ignored that number (lets say for a moment the factory tach is guessing), does the car operate correctly otherwise...no stall, bog, hunting for idle, etc.? Does it idle up w/the AC on? When you start the engine, does it jump up to maybe 1100 and then drop down after a moment or two?

  10. #10
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    Tb

    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    Wellllll...not sure if it's the cause, but - with EGR valves, I'd be more worried about exhaust gases getting into the cabin. Problem on our cars, obviously, is lack of room to work, so I'm sympathetic to putting it off without good cause, etc.

    Is the 550 on the dash tach?. If you ignored that number (lets say for a moment the factory tach is guessing), does the car operate correctly otherwise...no stall, bog, hunting for idle, etc.? Does it idle up w/the AC on? When you start the engine, does it jump up to maybe 1100 and then drop down after a moment or two?
    I did find the correct spark plug wire to test the RPM and I used my DVM to get that 550 along with the dash. To answer the other questions, yes operates great, no stall yet, no hunting for idle, it starts at about 1100 then goes down slowly, the AC does raise the idle a bit. I did replace all sensors including the IAC, TPS, Temp, oil. Cleaned the Throttle body. I guess I'll just have to see how it goes.

  11. #11
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    Sounds like a plan - drive it like you stole it - good luck & keeps us posted.

    Ken

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