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Thread: 90 Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Ottawa Canada
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    90 Ignition Switch and Actuator Rod

    A few days ago the ignition lock decided to turn all the way to the end and nothing happened,no power no start and no spring back into run position, it just spins. Dropped the steering cowl underneath and ignition switch was laying in there in pieces(doesn't look broken. Looks like just fell out of it's bracket in 2 pieces, one large one small.
    The actuator rod is moving I can feel it when I slide my finger up inside the switch housing, it feels like a round shaft but could be square.
    I have a new switch, have not removed the housing for old one yet.
    I cannot find any drawing to show how the rod will mate with the switch up inside the housing.

    Thanks in Advance

    Les

  2. #2
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    Les,

    This picture is of the entire switch....it's likely only the plastic part fell off. In the picture, you can see the slot that the little round post slides in to move the electrical contacts. The little U-shaped hole is where the post inserts.

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    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
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    I think the last one I bought had a short printed install guide in the box.

    This (ford truck/same part) R & R refers to a shipping pin, which I don't recall my AZ replacement having, but you should get the idea. Not complicated, I think, other than having to work under the dash, but still a bit of a puzzle.

    http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/jo...437_switch.pdf
    Last edited by KMT; 10-20-2016 at 12:37 PM.

  4. #4
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    Apr 2002
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    This one is from BWD, it looks exactly like the picture above, and no pin included. I won't know much more until I take off the old switch casing, maybe I can even reassemble the 2 pieces of the old switch. How it fell out of the case beats me, it's kind of locked in there by metal tabs on the metal case.

    Thanks guys for your help. I'll be back if I can't get it to work.

    Les

  5. #5
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    Dec 2007
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    Salem, OR
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    There is quite a bit of tension inside the switch that makes it want to open up. After x amounts of key/rod cycling, the retainers suffer and just give up. Poor design, I think, and the recent tip to zip tie the new one together when installing isn't a bad idea, as the guts seem able to survive beyond the housing's service limits.

  6. #6
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    Thanks KMT then I won't bother trying to reassemble the old switch at all.

  7. #7
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    Location
    Greenville, IN
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    Cool

    You could probably repair it if you wanted to...they don't typically break, just loosen up and fall apart.

    I reassembled one and tapped the metal fingers down to make it tight again. It's the spare one now! They are pretty cheap and easy to find since so many Ford models use them though!
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  8. #8
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    This did not go well. I buy a set of locking torx bits,8-9 pieces are any of them the right size, or course not either that or Ford got these screws with the center pin a larger diameter. I manage to tap fit one in with a hammer, it comes out, perfect. The back one, no way will the torx bit fit to move it. I cut a line in it for a wide flat blade with a dremmel, does not budge. I cut the head right off with the dremmel, there is hardly anything left to grip into and remove the screw. Never seen such a damned stubborn screw.

    I know what is left of the screw will simply fall apart if I try to remove it. The next choice is drill it out, retap it and get another screw. I wish there was a less dramatic way to secure that back part of the ignition switch bracket.The steering column seems to be white metal, not exactly the most durable to work on.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    389
    Good evening

    Sorry to hear about your ignition switch troubles. I know it is late but this the combination I have used to replace the switch. Gives enough room, flexibility and leverage to break torque.



    http://www.harborfreight.com/17-piec...set-67930.html or equivalent.


    https://www.craftsman.com/products/c...?taxon_id=1884 or equivalent.

  10. #10
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    Thank you, I had a similar set, 9 pieces but of course the correct size was one not included....it figures

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