Winter upgrades for 2016

davec73

SCCoA Member
Well as alot of you know one of my headgasket's sprung a leak so I will be giving the motor a good refreshing as well as a few other things. I just recently replaced the valve springs but I am sending my cylinder heads to scui to have them converted to 7/16 stud mount, also having them pressure tested and the full work up. As far as the motor goes I pulled it out today and I am going to start disassembly tomorrow. I have had crank case pressure issues for a while now so hopefully freshening up the motor to remedy that. I am going to add a double roller timing set, high performance lifters and I am ditching the pcv system for moroso crank case breathers. While the motor is out I'm going to completely refinish the engine bay and paint it. I am also upgrading the stereo system to a more racing friendly setup and installing an aluminum wall behind the rear seat to make it nhra legal. I am also upgrading the drag wheels and tires to 17" skinnies and 15x8 welds with Hoosier 27" slicks. I will post pics as things progress.
 
so far so good

well the motor is out and apart the bottom end looks good, no sign of headgasket/antifreeze damage. While its apart it will get new rings, cylinder hone, new bearings, cleaned and checked out thoroughly. I plan to add a double roller timing set and hp lifters internally and possibly have the cylinder heads converted to 7/16 stud mount.
While the motor was out I painted and detailed the engine bay and prepared it to accept the motor because I have decided to make some more changes while its apart. I plan to add a new Kenne Bell 2.1 Big bore blower when it goes back together since the motor will be good and tight.

I also have the full set of wheels and I am going to run 26.5 5.5 radials up front on 17 x 4.5 race star skinnies and 27 10.50 15 hoosier quick times out back.engine bay d.jpg
engine bay d2.jpg
engine bay d3.jpg
engine bay d4.jpg
engine bay d5.jpg
 
What did you use to clean the engine bay? Need to do the same before putting my motor back in.
 
What did you use to clean the engine bay? Need to do the same before putting my motor back in.

I used a pressure washer and degreaser that I sell. Then I sanded it down with 320 and painted all the red with automotive color match e4 red and professional grade clear coat. I also cleaned up all the harnesses and insulated the harness and wiring on the driver side, I found the headers melted some of the looms.
 
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Well update on the motor is not really good but not that bad either. It had vertical scratches in 3 of 6 cylinders but the scratches in #4 were more than .001 so I have decided to use a new block around the already perfect rotating assembly with new rings. The other block will be used at a later date for a 4.2. In other news while I'm fixing the motor I decided to go ahead and install a nice Shiney 2.1 kenne bell big bore.
 
If you have the ability, I'd recommend machining more backspace into those wheels. I was able to tuck them much better with a 2.375" backspace.
 
Did you do yours or have them done

I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882
 
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I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882
How much material would be removed for 2.5?
 
I machined them. There is enough meat to even tuck them in further and still maintain caliper clearance. If i did it again i'd go 2.5" BS however I didn't want to fixture them up again. Once you bolt them up...the 1.75" BS sticks out a ton. You'll want to tuck it in if you can. I was using cobra brakes so your caliper clearances may vary but I had enough room to go 2.5" BS but machined them @ 2.375"

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?137369-Machining-Wheel-Backspace&p=1098882#post1098882
BTW what I really need right now is a tubular front k member ÷]
 
aje was running a deal last week.

BTW what I really need right now is a tubular front k member ÷]
they were running a deal last week, ask them and they may just honor that deal. I talked to them and they were more than willing to do something, I guess things are slow everywhere.....Rich
 
here is the number for you

here is the number for you 812-346-7356 ask for Anthony.. hope this helps you.. they also have other front end stuff if you ask about it.. I have gotten a few "K" members from them and every time they were simple to put in and did work well....Rich
 
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