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Thread: Suspension / Brake Project Options

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    ny\long island
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    2,657

    13 brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by 99GSXR750 View Post
    Hey Tony,

    Did you have any issues with the pads fitting into the driver's side caliper bracket with regards to the 13in upgrade?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    hi mike i have no issues with my 13 cobra rotors,pads. i bought them already redrilled to t-bird bolt pattern so everything went in smooth..............to kmt i also put in the steel braided lines(all 4 corners). the only problems i having or had .is the resrs rotors,pads were from a 90 sc........mine is a 94.so i had some rears from my stash and made adjustments. my 94 stops. it's just dosen't have the stop on a dime .type braking. i;ve bleed all 4 corners , there are no light on dash , car has 88k. im thinking 1. a wear brake booster , or a big brake equalizer ....since i've put bigger rotors.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Merrimac, MA
    Posts
    231
    So I've just about completed my shopping for this project. I went with the 03-04 gt pbr calipers (reconditioned from rock auto) and they came with brackets. I have the 93+ spindles and sway bar end links. Side note, I also have a set of solid brembo rotors, which by the way are far thinner than my stock 89 rotors with 16k miles on them. Also have the gt brake pads for them. The pbr calipers have the coarse thread from my observation so I assume I can reuse my stock 89 banjo bolts (I haven't disassembled anything yet). I am wondering if I should just go the rest of the way and get the braided ss hoses from victor (or if somebody has a good used set)? Will these hoses negate the need to grind the caliper/hose block for interferences? Any other parts I should be looking for? Thanks guys.
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,155
    The stainless hoses will remove the requirement to grind clearance at the banjo bolt, yes.

    Don't forget to touch up the caliper and/or the spindle to clear the ear; it hits at the end of the brake travel.

    Hrm ... I'd stick with the thicker rotor for better heat dissipation if it were me; but it's your car, just keep the pads matched to the rotor. You will be needing a 1993+ non-Sport rotor for it all to fit, though.

    RwP

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Merrimac, MA
    Posts
    231
    I've seen plenty of discussion about the difference between rotors/hubs between years but is it true? The replacement rotors I got seem to fit on the 89 and 93 hubs exactly the same. I'm replacing the rotors either way because this whole project started with warped fronts. Leave it to me to fix a $30 problem with a $2500 solution.... somehow speedstars got a wrapped up in this too.o
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,155
    In 1989 to 1992, the MN12 used an "integral" bracket (i.e., the calipers bolted straight to the spindle). These are to use a 276mm diameter rotor that's right UNDER 26mm thick and one caliper design.

    The HUBS, well, there were two from 1989 to 1997; with and without ABS tone ring. Today all you can find are with the ABS tone ring, and that's OK, since without ABS it just ignores that ring.

    For 1993, with the advent of the FN10, the calipers and spindles were changed to use a bracket between, since Fomoco picked two different size rotors to fit the same hub and wheels. The standard MN12 rotor is also 276mm diameter that's right OVER 26mm thick. The SPORT, and the Mark VIII, got a 294mm diameter rotor that's right under 26mm thick. Standard got a different caliper and bracket (set "A" for 15 inch wheels) as did the Sport and FN10 (set "B" for 16 inch wheels).

    This is all on the front.

    For the rears, with 1993, the entire family got a slightly different rear rotor and caliper; the rotor is a smidge thinner (and lighter), the caliper fits over the new center line. (Old rotor is right under 24mm thick; new rotor is 18mm thick)

    For the rear, the OLD rotor and the NEW caliper, or NEW rotor and OLD caliper, can swap; but the pads are no longer properly centered (also, you'll have fun putting the OLD caliper, OLD rotor, and NEW pads on due to the NEW pads being a bit thicker ...)

    Since the OLDER rotors were a bit thicker (measuring 24mm thick, an increase of about 33%), if you can on the rear, run 1989-1992 rear calipers and rotors for maximum braking; but running the new ones won't make any difference until you start pushing the heat envelope. And if you're doing that, I'd personally recommend the caliper relocation brackets and Cobra type rotors; along with possibly a Big Brake upgrade.

    For the FRONT, you can use the Gen1 rotors with Gen2 calipers; there's a difference in the thickness, and it might not make much difference to your braking, but "center hub is the same size!" isn't quite the ONLY criteria, especially since the HUB itself didn't change from 1989 to 1998 (last year Mark VIII).

    And there's more than you probably wanted to know about it *grins* And explains why "THESE %$*@w&$%^ PADS DON'T FIT!!!" on the back sometimes.

    RwP

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Merrimac, MA
    Posts
    231
    That's great Info. I'm a database guy so more is always better. Thank you.
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Merrimac, MA
    Posts
    231
    Are there any opinions or experiences on whether the dust guard is necessary? Will it really funny down on a mess?
    1989 XR7 5-SPD - 15,700 miles - Garage Queen

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    768
    Quote Originally Posted by nickleman60 View Post
    I went with the Mustang 2 piston PBR brakes and I think that they work fine.
    I've been following this thread for a while now trying to decode the information before heading to the junk yard for Mustang dual piston parts. What's this bracket that people speak of? Do I need the bracket to install 2004 Mustang dual piston cylinders on my stock 1994 Super Coupe?

    I'm confused by this thread that claims 2 piston PBR calipers are a direct bolt on. Wondering what these brackets are discussed in the thread? Are we just talking about the brackets that the pads fit into? If so can't I just rob the whole assembly from the donor car, turn the rotors, get new pads and do the swap??
    Last edited by potshotscott; 04-30-2017 at 09:07 PM. Reason: dumb questions

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
    Posts
    2,155
    Read the threads carefully.

    You'll need the caliper BRACKET and the CALIPER both. That's everything out from the spindle.

    And, if your car doesn't have a 1993+ spindle set, you'll need to upgrade to them also.

    (A 2003 caliper will also work; 1999-2002 will work, but be SURE to get the banjo bolt! It's different.)

    Now.

    You will also need to clearance the caliper and/or the spindle where it will hit when the pads go all the way down.

    I did the spindle; but if you're not comfortable, you can clearance the caliper. And it doesn't take much, mind you!

    RwP

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