This is my biggest draw as well. I've been running my version of K-member, with good weight savings...about 21lb's. Not as much as the AJE setup, but i'm also able to retain the factory LCA and Strut rod (for better or worse). What's attractive to me is the savings of weight from the removal of the cast knuckle and heavy factory-style shock.
I had plans of making a coil-cover setup in a similar manner to what Bill @ SCP is selling, but with a double-adjustable version and a little more focused on straightline performance. However, once you figure in shocks ($250ea min) and springs ($150/set), I'm halfway to the cost of the strut conversion, but still have to fabricate and won't get the same weight savings as you're seeing.
If the setup you have is truly a dual adjustable for rebound and compression separately, then this is something i'm very interested in.
Keep us updated!
1) It all depends on what you are optimizing your toy for (unless you are a getaway car driver, anyone willing to put $$$ into suspension work a chassis worth $ is doing it as a toy vs a practical car). I recently finished redoing the front end of my car for road course racing with Bilstein inserts from a Mitsu 3000GT. For me, keeping the stock geometry makes but gaining a much stiffer dampening system up front is worth more than shedding a few pounds of semi-unsprung weight (hence my questions). I still love reading about other ways to skin the same cat for different purposes (you make wallets, I make hats) and a totally see the value of replacing the front spindles with a lighter weight unit.
2) I do think your estimate is a bit overblown though on coilover conversion costs though (aka duplicating what SCP sells). All I had to do was lathe down the inserts and fabricate a pair of sleeve nuts (vs fabricating brackets).
http://forums.tccoa.com/44-suspensi...sion-options-summary-bilstein-insert-diy.html
While the QA1 single adjustable shocks are $250/pair shocks, matching 650LB springs from QA1 are <$30 each vs $150 as quoted. You'll be spending time/money adapting this to a car but not serious $$$$.
http://www.jegs.com/i/QA1/122/10-650/10002/-1
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Back to the question about saving weight on the front end:
Q: I believe I see where the tie rods would attach to the spindle so you can actually steer but with this tubular front LCA setup, is front caster adjustable or is that fixed by the forwardmost part of the "V" shaped tubular LCA. On the stock setup, caster is dialed in by the strut rod brace.
Q2: While Front Toe is probably the most critical front alignment adjustment for a drag racing vehicle (to keep the car aimed in the right direction), how important in your experience is front caster for your application (drag racing)?
This article says it helps with self steering; it also comments that having some negative camber will be helpful as that would exhibit better drive characteristics. if I get things correctly, you'll get max negative camber under compression which during a drag race would be when you brake, right? That's probably a good thing.
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/15/steering-straight-inside-story-wheel-alignments/
Having not really ever drag raced though (I think I took my DD -- a honda accord -- to a qtr mile track once in college for giggles), when does stuff get most scary during the 1/4 mi: at launch or during braking?