passive aggresive restraint system SOLVED

figulaz

SCCoA Member
I really want my seat belts to work like my car is not possessed. I'm working on the kinks of car that has been stationary several yrs and I got the ol' passive restraint problems. Originally the driver side seat belt was stuck in the B Pillar position. I went through the open/ close switch pinout with an ohm meter manually cranking the motor to both switch positions and it pinned out fine-- door ajar switch too and switch by the hinges works fine too. If I crank the seat belt connector the middle of the track-- got in and shut the door and turned on the key-- the motor would kick on and move the belt to B pillar--leading me to the conclusion my module was bad. I replaced the module and now the seat belt works from A to B. It stays in B no matter how many times i turn the key off and and open the door. It then mocks me as I step out of the car and close the door. Then and only then will the seat belt return to the A pillar as I watch from outside. It seems to be indepent of lap belt use. I'm thinking I got another bad module, sticky or loose connections and the limit switches, ignition switch issue? or door ajar or is there some kind of weight sensor built in to the seat I need to look at? The passenger side always open and closes just fine based off the igntion switch. I feel like I was on track to eliminating issues and not throwing parts but I think I just mentioned all the system parts in my question.:confused:
 
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Good evening


Make sure the passive set belt track silicone lubed.

Remove A and B pillar cover panels while spraying silicone lube close and open switches. Open and close door. Monitor operation of the passive restraint driver side. Sometimes old lithium grease , dirt and or dust will cause the switch(s) to stick.


Good Luck.
 
I would double check the door jam switch. My Cougar used to do the exact thing you were describing. There are two circuits in the switch. Even if the interior light function correctly, it may not be completing the circuit for the belts. If I would swing the door back and forth a few times it would usually get the belt moving.
 
Thanks guys. I'll mess with the switches this in depth weekend before I throw more parts at it.
 
I would double check the door jam switch. My Cougar used to do the exact thing you were describing. There are two circuits in the switch. Even if the interior light function correctly, it may not be completing the circuit for the belts. If I would swing the door back and forth a few times it would usually get the belt moving.
Open/close the door. That switch is actually part of the latch assembly. Pain in the A to replace+fix.
 
Seems to be working now. Ignition cylinder lock (not the switch switch on the column)seemed to be the issue. some kind of ground issue. If i'd feather it on one way with the door open it would give the ignition door open ding ..feather it other way and it would give the ignition ready door closed steady tone. I took it apart...(along with basically all the plastic on the drivers side of the car) and messed with the contacts on and its working for now.
 
Well that lasted less than a full day. Last night about an hour after the above post I took my son to get junkfood and they belts worked flawless. This morning back to square one. Ignition cyl lock door ding works as it should. I'm throwing parts at it starting with door ajar and door chime switches even though they tested out.
 
Solved...I think

as I kept testing switches it just made sense the 2nd used module was also faulty..better but still faulty. I found a NOS in the box unit on Ebay for $30 and problem solved
 
as I kept testing switches it just made sense the 2nd used module was also faulty..better but still faulty. I found a NOS in the box unit on Ebay for $30 and problem solved
Good to hear you got it fixed.
 
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