Issues with A/C Compressor, and an update on my SC

To test your fan circuit, all you need is a paperclip. Watch the video that KMT listed. Its OK, but you can stop after you see where he inserts the jumper wire. Thats all you need to know for now. After that, jump in, turn the key on to the run position.. listen for the Fan to run briefly. If it runs.. then the EEC, IRCM, and fan are working. It should throw a code if the fan doesn't work. Count the flashes of the engine light like the guy in the video shows, then look it up.

Note: he states that he hasn't been able to clear codes. Thats done by removing the jumper with the key still turned on. ;)

The fan and compressor are both engaged by the EEC. Its kind of unlikely that the EEC is the culprit, but the IRCM could be.. there is a way to test it by applying 12v to the brown/orange wire, and/or shorting the pink wire to ground. Its up to you if you want to delve into that test. If you have a spare good working IRCM sitting around, you could try that out too.
Did the EEC test, fan didn't run, and no codes popped up at all.

Edit: Nevermind! Had the jumper cable connected to the wrong contact. The fan did run, and if I read the code correctly, it showed codes 11 and 15. I'll post a video soon.
 
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See http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html - for a list that includes SC-only codes.

11 means pass and 15 may just be an artifact of the DIY process - or there might be a ground/EEC gremlin? Has the EEC been replaced? Is the center bolt for the connector at the EEC in place/snug? Is the battery charged up and clamps clean/tight? I'd still try to obtain a reader at some point.

Fan runs, means the computer is ok; the IRCM is ok; and the fan circuits are OK.

That said, fan not running when ECT connector pulled means...?

I'd repeat that ECT test, again, with engine running, then unplug the ECT and fan should run.

Did you confirm the high pressure switch part number/application when you bought the new one? Sorry if I missed it, did you jumper it to test that circuit?
 
See http://www.njtacc.com/tech/eec_codes.html - for a list that includes SC-only codes.

11 means pass and 15 may just be an artifact of the DIY process - or there might be a ground/EEC gremlin? Has the EEC been replaced? Is the center bolt for the connector at the EEC in place/snug? Is the battery charged up and clamps clean/tight? I'd still try to obtain a reader at some point.

Fan runs, means the computer is ok; the IRCM is ok; and the fan circuits are OK.

That said, fan not running when ECT connector pulled means...?

I'd repeat that ECT test, again, with engine running, then unplug the ECT and fan should run.

Did you confirm the high pressure switch part number/application when you bought the new one? Sorry if I missed it, did you jumper it to test that circuit?
There is a ground issue somewhere in the car, as I get some squealing through the speakers, but that's probably not related since it's in the audio system.

I did the ECT test again with the car running, still no fan. I'm starting to suspect maybe the fan motor, or the fan motor connections? The mechanic just crimped them with a butt connector and wrapped it in electrical tape. Maybe they're bad on the low speed or high speed wire? I don't know. My mom recalls him saying something about only hooking it up to the high circuit, so that it would always run on high and never overheat. Maybe that could be the culprit?

The battery is brand new, and my battery tester says it's at full charge.

I did jump the High Pressure switch on my first attempt to charge it before I bought the new sensor, and the compressor ran, but no fan. The new sensor works, only turned the compressor on once some freon was in, but still no fan.
 
The deal w/the fan motor is that there are two windings/speed circuits...one for low speed and one for high. High draws so much current on spin up that the circuit is designed so it always/only comes online after the fan has first been spun up using the speed circuit. On high, both circuits are lit.

There are ways to modify the fan circuit so it always runs, but that's not something you've described so far, unless it used to do that and now, for some reason, it doesn't. I can imagine doing that mod the wrong way and having fan motor, and at least IRCM issues, sometime down the road. Speaking of which, why is there a new IRCM in the mix now?

>The mechanic just crimped them with a butt connector and wrapped it in electrical tape
I'd want to know what's going under that tape and specifically why a repair was needed/done in the first place.

What I've been trying to help you troubleshoot so far involves an unmolested fan, harness, connector, etc. No telling where to go next if that means a franken-fan circuit ;)
 
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The deal w/the fan motor is that there are two windings/speed circuits...one for low speed and one for high. High draws so much current on spin up that the circuit is designed so it always/only comes online after the fan has first been spun up using the speed circuit. On high, both circuits are lit.

There are ways to modify the fan circuit so it always runs, but that's not something you've described so far, unless it used to do that and now, for some reason, it doesn't. I can imagine doing that mod the wrong way and having fan motor, and at least IRCM issues, sometime down the road. Speaking of which, why is there a new IRCM in the mix now?


I'd want to know what's going under that tape and specifically why a repair was needed/done in the first place.

What I've been trying to help you troubleshoot so far involves an unmolested fan, harness, connector, etc. No telling where to go next if that means a franken-fan circuit ;)
The IRCM and Fan Motor were replaced due to the car overheating and the fan not running AT ALL. I was having some major health issues and wasn't up for fixing it myself, so I took it to my mechanic, and he told me to buy those 2 parts. That's why I'm gonna call him and have him look at it tomorrow. I need to know exactly what he did.

I have a picture of the crimped connections:

IMG_20170423_163504584.jpg
 
I did the ECT test again with the car running, still no fan. I'm starting to suspect maybe the fan motor, or the fan motor connections? The mechanic just crimped them with a butt connector and wrapped it in electrical tape. Maybe they're bad on the low speed or high speed wire? I don't know. My mom recalls him saying something about only hooking it up to the high circuit, so that it would always run on high and never overheat. Maybe that could be the culprit?
The A/C engages the low speed fan circuit. :) His fix is not correct. Just looked at your picture. That is the aftermarket replacement fan.. it is a single speed fan because well... the manufacturer didn't see the need for a high speed winding.. :rolleyes: :( It is what it is. I have this same setup in my red car, but I didn't get goofy or tricky with wiring it in. I just connected it like the diagram showed and viola.. it works as it supposed to. That is to say there's just 1 speed.

Black harness wire to black fan wire. Brown/yellow harness wire to either fan orange wire. Remaining harness wire to the other fan orange wire. :cool:
 
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The A/C engages the low speed fan circuit. :) His fix is not correct.
I'm not sure if he actually wired it up that way (only going on something my mom said she THINKS she remembers hearing), but I'm definitely gonna have him take a look. And anyways, i'm not too good with electrical stuff yet, and I don't wanna mess it up even more.
 
I'm not sure if he actually wired it up that way

From the photo, it looks like at least one of the tabs/keepers is broken on the factory fan/harness connector. Easy to do when the plastic gets old, but risky later...it might look like it's snug, but if the male connector isn't fully plunged, you can lose power to the fan thru the connector and not realize it (ask me how I know). The size of the wires demonstrates just how much current is being passed, and a marginal connector puts that at risk.

If one or both tabs are broken, I'd wrap a zip-tie length wise to better mate/clamp the two connector pieces.

I'd recommend new, but it's a molded connector, and having to splice just adds another point for failure to sneak in.
 
From the photo, it looks like at least one of the tabs/keepers is broken on the factory fan/harness connector. Easy to do when the plastic gets old, but risky later...it might look like it's snug, but if the male connector isn't fully plunged, you can lose power to the fan thru the connector and not realize it (ask me how I know). The size of the wires demonstrates just how much current is being passed, and a marginal connector puts that at risk.

If one or both tabs are broken, I'd wrap a zip-tie length wise to better mate/clamp the two connector pieces.

I'd recommend new, but it's a molded connector, and having to splice just adds another point for failure to sneak in.
Yep it broke off when I was disconnecting it for removing the radiator. It felt really snug so I thought it was ok. I'll ziptie it and see if it helps.
 
Might as well pull it apart and make sure nothing looks melted and/or corroded/green. If healthy, dab some connector grease inside then reconnect and tie off.
 
Might as well pull it apart and make sure nothing looks melted and/or corroded/green. If healthy, dab some connector grease inside then reconnect and tie off.
So so glad I brought it to the mechanic. It WAS the IRCM after all! And, my mechanic actually found a used one for $25! So I'm returning the bad aftermarket one to rockauto that originally cost me $90 for a full refund, and I'm getting a used OEM part for $25! So it's a win win!

Mechanic said it was working perfectly with the new (used) IRCM in, and I'm picking it up tomorrow.
 
Did the mech. wrap up all the A/C work too?
It was all pretty much done, but he did evacuate it and recharge with the proper amount of refrigerant just to be safe.

I'll get more details when I pick it up tomorrow, but he said it's blowing cold and the fan is running.
 
These cars remind me of Naval Aviation more and more. Fly an hour work on it for three. Love every minute of it (figuratively speaking).
 
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