Brakes

Great. So top off the reservoir and go ahead and get a new accumulator on order.. you STILL need a new one.. you don't want the pump motor to have any more wear on it than necessary at this age. Replacement and repair parts aren't being made for this assembly anymore. :) Oh, and also a new relay even if the one you have seems to work.
 
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I assume the accumulator is at fault

When the system works, how many pumps does it take with the engine running and car parked before the ABS light comes on and the pump kicks in?

3 or 4 or less - accumulator is toast - common when old, and you should shop for a replacement. 6 or 7+ pumps, it still has service life.

You haven't replaced _anything_ yet, so don't let the fact it worked again distract you. Re-read the thread, for starters.
 
Two pumps on the brake and the pump kicks on for about four seconds. One or two more repetitions and the system brainfarts and lights go on and the pump quits working.
 
Accumulator's shot.

You SHOULD get three to five good full brakes without restarting the pump.

RwP
 
Two pumps on the brake and the pump kicks on for about four seconds. One or two more repetitions and the system brainfarts and lights go on and the pump quits working.

Then you at least need an accumulator. Pump and supporting systems should be further evaluated using the link to Duffy's troubleshooting that was already supplied.
 
Alright, guys. Accumulator came promptly upon being ordered, and this afternoon I laid into the job after work. It all went smoothly, thank God. I have a knack for misplacing tools right in front of me, but that didn't seem to happen this time. I cleaned the cowls while I was at it. No lights, brakes work, I'm happy as a clam.

Except that I noticed that my valve cover gaskets are leaking onto the exhaust manifolds, and subsequently sending up smoke (just barely enough to visually tell it's there), which would explain the burning odor I've smelt over the last few months. It looks as though it's been going on for a while. There's no caking or anything, just a slight ooz. Oil level is always fine. Whatever. I'll carry a fire extinguisher in the back seat for good measure. I might pressure wash the area and see what that does.

Anyway, back to the main point, thanks so much, all of you. My beloved SC has led me on another merry adventure, but thanks to the expertise in this group, we're back in the driver's seat!
 
Good news that, thanks for the followup - were did you find the accumulator, btw?

I think the valve cover gaskets shrink when the engine isn't run for a while. Just snug them down gently and keep an eye on them.
 
SpinningwheelsSC has them in. I'd assume they just forgot. To update the page. I'll keep an eye on the valve covers and update if the snugging down doesn't work. Thanks again y'all!
 
SpinningwheelsSC has them in. I'd assume they just forgot. To update the page. I'll keep an eye on the valve covers and update if the snugging down doesn't work. Thanks again y'all!
Good to hear it. And yes, tightenting up the valve cover bolts will fix the leak.. for a while. You'll need to tighten them up again in about 6 months. To fix it longer term, you'll need to reseal with RTV, or just replace them.
 
So the hydraulic pump motor relay is down. WHERE do I get one? None of the auto parts stores or dealerships have them.
 
So the hydraulic pump motor relay is down. WHERE do I get one? None of the auto parts stores or dealerships have them.

RockAuto ( http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...8672,electrical-switch+&+relay,abs+relay,3008 )

Also, with the part numbers there, you can check Amazon or Ebay and see if they have them.

Plus, there's other relays that'll work but just won't be the "proper colors". Specifically, that brown; the other two relays over there on my 1991 Cougar both plug and work, but will confuse the bejebus out of people who try to troubleshoot with the book *grins*

RwP
 
Update

Relay arrived, plugged it in, no change. I did notice something different before I replaced the relay: the abs light is off and only the red brake light is on (maybe the abs bulb burned out?).

All fuses are good. Pedal is still firm. Brake fluid reservoir is overfull (probably from the discharged accumulator). Same symptoms as the bad accumulator issue but for these two: a) the pump does not run in the key on position, and b) when tested, the four pin plug reads 0. Which led me to believe relay...to start with. Isn't the relay though, apparently.

Thoughts?
 
My 1990 ABS light always come on during the initial check of the system ( key on), then it turns off after few seconds. If yours does not come on at all, yes the light bulb might be burned.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=irrkJRIqtmA.

FYI. I had issues with my ABS system for two years. Come to found that the brand new relay I bought fron Rock Auto was not correct. In addition, 4 out of the 5 computers I had were also bad. End up using an original relay, from my other tbird, and new computer to fix the issue.
I will check when I get home, but I think one of the relay from the ride control can also be used
 
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So as it stands right now, the original relays are in place due to (probably) not being bad. The four pin plug reads 0, pedal is hard, no abs light period, red brake light is on, and pump doesn't run. Bad pressure switch and possibly shot abs light bulb?
 
Relay arrived, plugged it in, no change. I did notice something different before I replaced the relay: the abs light is off and only the red brake light is on (maybe the abs bulb burned out?).

All fuses are good. Pedal is still firm. Brake fluid reservoir is overfull (probably from the discharged accumulator). Same symptoms as the bad accumulator issue but for these two: a) the pump does not run in the key on position, and b) when tested, the four pin plug reads 0. Which led me to believe relay...to start with. Isn't the relay though, apparently.

Thoughts?

Good afternoon

First check to make sure the the ABS light is off the pump is working. I would do the following:

De-pressurize the system. Key off. Engine off. Depress and release pedal at least 25 times. Pedal should be rock hard.

Next key on/ engine off. The pump should come on. ABS/BRAKES lights should go out before the motor stops running.


If the pump is NOT running do the following:

Remove, inspect, clean and re-install the pressure switch and the pump relay connector. Note there are three relays located on the passenger side of the engine fire wall.

1. A/C WOT. 2. ABS relay. 3. Pump Motor Relay. The ABS and Pump relays can not be switched for troubleshooting.

Try a Key on/engine off attempt for the pump to work. If unsuccessful turn key off.

Get socket extension(s) and or pipe long enough to reach the pump motor.

Key on/engine off. Tap the extension(s) and or pipe against the pump motor with a hammer. Suspect the pump motor if the system now pressurizes. Reason. If the pump motor starts from striking, the vibration indicate the motor is on it way out. Best to change with the TEVES unit is removed and accessible from the car. I would change the pressure switch for good measure as preventive maintenance due to the age of the TEVES units.

If the pump motor is working, the ABS light if off but the BRAKE light is on check the following:

- Servicing.

- Low brake reservior sensor or connector.

- Brake proportion sensor or connector. Jack and supporting of front end is required.

- Air in the brake system. Brake caliber and or pad issue.





See attachment for addition troubleshooting information.


https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...J4m89exW0WSu5bUn7Zplg7hQ&ust=1496882874217609



Good Luck.
 
Good info, Sam, but I'd add..

- If you tap on the motor and it comes alive, the multi-wire ignition switch on the steering column may be the actual culprit, and the motor may be fine - ask me how I know :) I'd replace the switch first, just to check, as the cost and effort to install a new one is low, where motors are now made from unobtainium, and require R & R'ing the entire master cylinder to swap out, if you do get lucky and locate a good one.

- As for the pressure switch...given how difficult it can be to R & R, if it's original, I'd not bother to put it back in. I'd have a new one on hand.


smac:
As for the hard pedal and no light(s), I'd wonder if one or more brake hoses have failed and swelled internally, causing a blockage.
 
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