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Thread: Brakes

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Salem, OR
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    Quote Originally Posted by smac View Post
    Forgive my ignorance: a) how does one jump at a connector, and b) where exactly is the pressure switch relay?
    Sorry, but this might be something you should have someone local do for you. If you're not comfortable with using a jumper wire, you might do more harm than good. I'd hate to see that happen.

    Ken

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by smac View Post
    Forgive my ignorance: a) how does one jump at a connector, and b) where exactly is the pressure switch connector?
    You can use a short piece of insulated wire with about 1/4" striped off on both ends. The pressure switch connector is NOT easy to get to. Look at the diagram of the unit and you'll see a wire bundle connection just above the pump motor. Thats what you need to disconnect.

    However, if it were me, I'd only do that after testing everything else I could test first. For instance, you can start with just seeing if you're getting power to the pump motor itself with the key in the run position. That connector is easy to reach; its on the side of the Teves Unit. Its about 1" in diameter, and has 4 wires (2 grey, 2 grey/red) coming out of it. Look at the diagram to see which pins have voltage... So IF it has power and the pump isnt running, then you need go no further.. its the pump motor which has failed. If no power, then test for voltages at the relay connector. There will be at least 2 of those which have 12V. 1 is the relay coil, the other is from the power block. If only 1 has power, then you'll need to test the pressure switch... which means jumpering the connector at the switch.. the one thats difficult to reach.

    As a note, if in doubt, its never a bad idea to just replace the relay itself. They aren't that expensive and the contacts do wear out.
    Last edited by TbirdSCFan; 04-30-2017 at 11:13 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    88
    So I put the relays back in and tested the four pin connector. Voltage read 10.00 and slowly lowered to 9. I tested again and obtained the same result. I was like, whatever, and plugged the four-pin connector back in AND THE PUMP KICKED ON!!! And the abs light is off. The pump ran for about 20 seconds, the shut off, at which point I turned the key off and performed a mad dance of joy.

    So what's next? The brake fluid reservoir is low. I assume because the the pump filled the accumulator...?

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    88

    Cool

    Now back to square one. Abs and brake light with hard pedal. The only thing that has changed is that I know the pump works. I can hear it most of the times I 'test' the system with the key on. If I pump the brake pedal with the key on I can hear the pump kick on, and after a few pumps of the brake pedal the whole thing has a mental breakdown and both lights come on and the pedal gets hard. I assume the accumulator is at fault, an early diagnosis by someone (can't remember who).

    Correct me if I'm wrong here, anyone...

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Bossier City, LA
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    Yes; the accumulator is WAY overdue to be replaced. The problem is that used ones are dying due to age; but you may get lucky in the boneyard.

    I linked to where Victor lists them, but he's out of stock currently.

    RwP

  6. #21
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    May 2002
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    Great. So top off the reservoir and go ahead and get a new accumulator on order.. you STILL need a new one.. you don't want the pump motor to have any more wear on it than necessary at this age. Replacement and repair parts aren't being made for this assembly anymore. Oh, and also a new relay even if the one you have seems to work.
    Last edited by TbirdSCFan; 05-01-2017 at 11:38 PM.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Salem, OR
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    Quote Originally Posted by smac View Post
    I assume the accumulator is at fault
    When the system works, how many pumps does it take with the engine running and car parked before the ABS light comes on and the pump kicks in?

    3 or 4 or less - accumulator is toast - common when old, and you should shop for a replacement. 6 or 7+ pumps, it still has service life.

    You haven't replaced _anything_ yet, so don't let the fact it worked again distract you. Re-read the thread, for starters.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Two pumps on the brake and the pump kicks on for about four seconds. One or two more repetitions and the system brainfarts and lights go on and the pump quits working.

  9. #24
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    Jan 2010
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    Accumulator's shot.

    You SHOULD get three to five good full brakes without restarting the pump.

    RwP

  10. #25
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    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by smac View Post
    Two pumps on the brake and the pump kicks on for about four seconds. One or two more repetitions and the system brainfarts and lights go on and the pump quits working.
    Then you at least need an accumulator. Pump and supporting systems should be further evaluated using the link to Duffy's troubleshooting that was already supplied.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    88
    Alright, guys. Accumulator came promptly upon being ordered, and this afternoon I laid into the job after work. It all went smoothly, thank God. I have a knack for misplacing tools right in front of me, but that didn't seem to happen this time. I cleaned the cowls while I was at it. No lights, brakes work, I'm happy as a clam.

    Except that I noticed that my valve cover gaskets are leaking onto the exhaust manifolds, and subsequently sending up smoke (just barely enough to visually tell it's there), which would explain the burning odor I've smelt over the last few months. It looks as though it's been going on for a while. There's no caking or anything, just a slight ooz. Oil level is always fine. Whatever. I'll carry a fire extinguisher in the back seat for good measure. I might pressure wash the area and see what that does.

    Anyway, back to the main point, thanks so much, all of you. My beloved SC has led me on another merry adventure, but thanks to the expertise in this group, we're back in the driver's seat!

  12. #27
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    Dec 2007
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    Salem, OR
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    Good news that, thanks for the followup - were did you find the accumulator, btw?

    I think the valve cover gaskets shrink when the engine isn't run for a while. Just snug them down gently and keep an eye on them.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    88
    SpinningwheelsSC has them in. I'd assume they just forgot. To update the page. I'll keep an eye on the valve covers and update if the snugging down doesn't work. Thanks again y'all!

  14. #29
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Dallas, TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by smac View Post
    SpinningwheelsSC has them in. I'd assume they just forgot. To update the page. I'll keep an eye on the valve covers and update if the snugging down doesn't work. Thanks again y'all!
    Good to hear it. And yes, tightenting up the valve cover bolts will fix the leak.. for a while. You'll need to tighten them up again in about 6 months. To fix it longer term, you'll need to reseal with RTV, or just replace them.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Posts
    88
    So the hydraulic pump motor relay is down. WHERE do I get one? None of the auto parts stores or dealerships have them.

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