Brakes

Haven't gone the dealership route yet. Still waiting to hear back from them because they forgot to check the AC out when they looked at the abs, so the car is still there. I'm positive I can replace the module if I could find one.

Know of anyone on here that might have one laying around?
 
For what it is worth I had the same type of issue with mine. One thing made it even harder to trouble shoot was the fact that 4 out of the 5 modules I had were bad. It was not until I plugged a brand new known to be working module that I was able to fix my issue. I did not realize that this things had such a high failure rate. I will never buy a used one again. lIn addition, remember that you have drive the car above 25 mph for the stored code to clear.
 
So I took the car by the best local mechanic (honest, good guys my Dad's gone to for years; two of them owned super coupes), cuz I need the AC to be fixed anyway. The word so far on the abs is that there's a reading from the test connector in the trunk that says 'permanent error'.

Thoughts?
How did read that code ?
 
They tested it with some super up-to-date tester that cost, apparently, near ten grand... I assum it would have been able to pinpoint the issue on a later vehicle. Our beloved sc is simply too old and 'exotic' for these newfangled contraptions. :D

The car is regularly (when not down with symptoms) driven above 25, so the codes are always cleared.

I'm going to find an abs module on here and I'll install it and update when done.
 
Unless it is guarantee to work, I would not. As I said, 4 out the 5 modules I got were bad.

As well, if there is a secondary issue, such as wiring, that killed the other one, as opposed to it up and died outright, when smac puts another one in, new or used, it might instantly fail, making it appear to be yet another bad unit, even if it's not - self-fulfilling prophecy and all that. I'd want to look inside the old one first, as sam suggests.


smac:
But, something has to be tried, so... I'd go with the one that, as falcon says, is guaranteed to work, and has the best warranty. Keep in mind that many electronic items come with restricted warrantees, so if it blows and you take it back, know where you stand ahead of time, just don't use those words.

As for the shop's tester saying 'permanent failure', I'd wonder if it is compatible with an early SC (not all ABS testers are), and threw that error simply because it didn't know what else to do. Did the shop staff that owns an SC say they've used the tester on an early model with positive results?

Yet another reason to have a Ford dealer take a shot at it (call first and ask specifically), as if anyone would have the right ABS tester they would, even tho I'd do anything to keep mine out of their hands ;) Don't let them do the work, just pay them to test the ABS system electrics.
 
I'll check the module as soon as I get the car back. I just sent payment on a module from a member on this forum, that was working up to when he decided to part the car out due to head gasket failure. At any rate, I'll take a look at the old one and let you all know before I put the 'new' old one in.

If the replacement doesn't work, is there a way to get a brand new never used one?
 
If the replacement doesn't work, is there a way to get a brand new never used one?

Several places to chose from. I will get home in a few days, I will check where mine came from.

Starting with a known working unit is how I was able to figure out 4 out of my 5 units were bad. What was interesting is that two of them triggered the amber ABS light but no code.

Have you tried to pull the codes using a superstar code reader or the paper clip method?
Check my link to see how to pull the codes
 
So the abs module came and I installed it. No signs of failure or damage, or burnt smells on the original module. No change. Drove the car up to 40 mph and no clearing of codes, cuz the lights were still on. Turned the car off and then back on, and all that showed up was the brake light, no abs light.

???
 
Symptoms are as follows:

Upon initial startup, USUALLY (not always) system tests fine.
Anywhere from two minutes to twenty minutes into driving, abs light and brake light come on and the pedal gets hard shortly thereafter.
Upon turning off, key on and USUALLY (not always) only brake light is on.
Leave the car off for several days and the system works again briefly.

The issue always arises after I touch the brakes.

The brake fluid is full. It was full when I replaced the accumulator back in May, and was full at the start of this new onslaught, and has remained so. Perhaps some sir got into the system when I replaced the accumulator?

Is there a way I can disable the abs without switching to a conventional system from a donor bird or mark viii or cougar?

Honestly the issue in that thread is so similar to mine. I'm going to have the mechanic who did my AC bleed them. He said he'd do it for free, so what's to lose...
 
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Good afternoon


I would also refer to post # 39 of this thread for intermittent pump operation also. Reason. After 20 min of driving (with brakes), the lights (ABS, BRAKE) on and hard peddle.

Duplicate the symptoms again. Pull over and with the engine running "tap" the motor. Suspect the motor if it labors or fails to work (pump).

It appears the motor will pump on first start but fail to pressurize the system after repeated use of the brakes.
 
Tried tapping the pump with the symptoms present, no change. Any other little trials I can run before the brake bleeding on Friday?
 
Alright, I'll just go over everything again.

One quick thing: which eec breakout box works for my car? It's an 89.
 
Good afternoon


I would also refer to post # 39 of this thread for intermittent pump operation also. Reason. After 20 min of driving (with brakes), the lights (ABS, BRAKE) on and hard peddle.

Duplicate the symptoms again. Pull over and with the engine running "tap" the motor. Suspect the motor if it labors or fails to work (pump).

It appears the motor will pump on first start but fail to pressurize the system after repeated use of the brakes.

If the pump motor is running all the time, that would be consistent with overeheating. There is a internal thermal switch. If you see that happening, but the lights go out as normal, you need to figure out why its not shutting off. Next time in the morning, sit in the driveway with the key on, engine off, at first startup and get out and listen. It should shut off after a minute or so.
 
The pump doesn't have a problem running, sounds nice and healthy. Also, I've never heard it run for more than a minute, usually more like 40 seconds and it cuts out after just slightly sounding labored.
 
The pump doesn't have a problem running, sounds nice and healthy. Also, I've never heard it run for more than a minute, usually more like 40 seconds and it cuts out after just slightly sounding labored.

That is a description of a working pump, doing it's job, servicing the ABS as designed.

Check it off your list.
 
The pump doesn't have a problem running, sounds nice and healthy. Also, I've never heard it run for more than a minute, usually more like 40 seconds and it cuts out after just slightly sounding labored.

That is a description of a working pump, doing it's job, servicing the ABS as designed.

Check it off your list, again, same as back on 5.1.17.
 
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