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Thread: DrFishbone Engine Build Thread 2017

  1. #181
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
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    Greenville, IN
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    4,390
    Well...I'm going to drive it 100miles round trip to work tomorrow...change the oil, maybe try flushing the PS fluid...we'll see how that goes. Need to get the old laptop dusted off and make sure I can datalog.

    Also forgot I put my 100lb stereo box in the trunk....guess I need to disconnect and remove that too, right? I may or may not leave it in for the "car show" I don't know when I'll have time to clean it and the Anny all up though..lol
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Grafton, OHIO
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    652
    If you delete the PCV, you should at least incorporate some sort of restriction, such as a simple baffle with a small hole...I've heard that some manufs. are doing this on cheaper cars in an effort to reduce costs, etc. But by the time you go to that amount of DIY, you could just retain the OE PCV system and be done. Wasn't there a recent thread where someone found out the factory baffles were somehow missing/removed when they inspected the valve covers?

    That was me.

    I been following this thread on and off and missed it b4. I CAN attest, ya leave out the baffle, u WILL suck a chit ton o oil into the intake, oil separator or no.

    Looking at ur newest schematics, that does not seem to vent the crank case at all, u have set up a closed system, valve cover to valve cover with crank case and separator between, no air flow.

    The drivers valve cover is the inlet of air to crankcase, placed behind the mass air meter, so metered, filtered air, no vac leak. The drivers valve cover/pcv valve used to evacuate/relieve crankcase pressure back into intake system. With a properly operating pcv I can see no reason to reinvent the wheel, just install the oil separator between pcv and manifold?

    Adam

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Grafton, OHIO
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    652
    Thinking some more, I remember seeing a thread about someone promoting a billet "adjustable" pcv valve. Couple of bleeder screws to adjust when and how much flow goes thru the valve, and a more positive seal to make sure it happens as directed. Could not really see the point or advantage at the time, but maybe. Think it was at or near the $100 price point which I thought was crazy? Fits ur idea of a "pretty" pcv tho!?!? LOL! May b something to think on long term?

    Adam

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    7,428
    Adam, his latest schematics has a vent filter on the catch can it will work on wot but not under normal driving. As I stated the best is to keep the system, add an enclosed catch can, and add a oil cap vent adapter and filter designed with a check ball and baffles so it does not operate under normal conditions ie vacuum. But will open and relieve crankcase pressure during WOT and boost. It will keep gaskets and seals from breaking a seal, dipsticks from blowing out.
    1994 Supercoupe 5spd Custom, first to buy a 2.1L Big Bore Kenne Bell Twin Screw for an SC - 480whp at TI/SCU
    On the 1.7l AR SC: 415WHP and 12.2535 @112.18. Best TQ to date 516ft/lbs.
    1990 35th 5spd 2011 Carlisle 1st place class winner. 12.9@108MPH 1.9.
    2013 GT/CS 5.0L FRPP 2.3l Whipplecharged family weekend car.
    2011 Cadillac Escalade Hybrid LS 6.0l LZ1

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Greenville, IN
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    4,390
    Quote Originally Posted by aroot1 View Post
    Looking at ur newest schematics, that does not seem to vent the crank case at all, u have set up a closed system, valve cover to valve cover with crank case and separator between, no air flow.
    It does vent the crankcase, but doesn't circulate fresh air through it.

    Like Derek mentioned, it's basically old hot-rod style. Main thing (for now . The Shootout) is that I'm relieving any crankcase pressure that builds up in a way that won't make a mess under the hood or on the track. Later, I'll figure out what to do add some degree of fresh air into the crankcase to more actively remove the blowby air / vapors.
    Matt Haub
    Shootouts: '09 SS 1st | '10 Mod1 2nd | '11 Bracket 3rd | '12 Bracket 1st | 2013 | '14 Bracket 3rd | 2015 | '16 Bracket 1st & Mod2 2nd | 2017 |
    Black '89 5spd - 281K miles, MPx, E85, Alky-Inj RWHP: ? RWTQ: ? Best 1/4mi:12.521, MPH:107.23mph
    35th Anniversary Auto 46k miles | Red '93 Auto 186k miles
    My Garage

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
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    5,168
    I posted about the adjustable PCV Valve, I think. Its working good on the Marauder still. I also got one of them oil fill vent caps, it spews oil so be aware of that.
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlit on drag duty now

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLOWN38 View Post
    got one of them oil fill vent caps, it spews oil so be aware of that.

    W/the check ball? When? Track only?

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Grafton, OHIO
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    652
    Yeah, gotch.

    I missed the vented separator/tank. I still believe that just putting a sealed separator between stock style PCV and manifold is simplest, and maybe best solution. The "tuneable" PCV may give you the rest of what ur looking for as to when it seals/vents, and how much flow you get when it does.

    Adam

  9. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by KMT View Post
    W/the check ball? When? Track only?
    Yes and yes...
    ~Chris
    SCCoA Member #1826
    Bettie Riding jack stands
    SCARlit on drag duty now

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Pacific Rim
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLOWN38 View Post
    Yes and yes...
    Got it, good info, thanks.

    Ken

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