The revamp of my 1995 SC

The car looks great Tim. Sorry I missed it on the Tour. Engine compartment is way too sparkly though :) And I love the wheels!
 
Cars currently off getting repainted. This I suppose this is chapter 2 in the rebirth process. Mike Siska (EECDOC) was kind enough to introduce me to his paint and body man from his Ford dealership years ago. He rolled my rear fenders when I added the 18x10 SVEs, and at that time quoted me a repaint price. Finally the stars aligned where I had the car, time and money to give him the work.

The car was wrecked prior to my ownership so the front passenger side of the steel bumper has always been shoved up..so he is going to fix that for me. 96 handles and locks are going to be installed. My cobra R hood is going to get the needed fiber glass repairs...the hinges ripped out on the HRPT and it had other cosmetic issues from a previous repair done wrong. Lastly he mated a early cover SC emboss into the 95 cover.

Not many photos at this point but its progressing. If all goes as planned it will be at Carlisle in June.

Car will be repainted the latest Ford Pearl White seen on Fusions
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cover primer1.jpg

I'll update as pictures roll in.

-Tim
 
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I pulled the front bumper on my Redbird to paint it. Wasn't too bad except the five steel core rivet fasteners underneath. I used a Dremel reciprocating cutter to remove them and nuts and bolts to replace them. What did you do, Tim?
 
I pulled the front bumper on my Redbird to paint it. Wasn't too bad except the five steel core rivet fasteners underneath. I used a Dremel reciprocating cutter to remove them and nuts and bolts to replace them. What did you do, Tim?

I think you're referring to the honey comb deal that attaches to the metal bumper? For removal I believe I used a sledge hammer and more or less tore it off. Reinstalled it with some self tapping screws from Lowes if memory serves me.

-Tim
 
I pulled the front bumper on my Redbird to paint it. Wasn't too bad except the five steel core rivet fasteners underneath. I used a Dremel reciprocating cutter to remove them and nuts and bolts to replace them. What did you do, Tim?


For the rivets on the black air damn piece underneath the rivets I cut off with a pair of dikes and then it was reinstalled w the OEM type crush aluminum rivets.

-Tim
 
For the rivets on the black air damn piece underneath the rivets I cut off with a pair of dikes and then it was reinstalled w the OEM type crush aluminum rivets.

-Tim

Yeah, those were the ones I was asking about. Getting them off without butchering the cover was the trick
 
Tim,
How is that "Be Cool" radiator still working for you? Assuming you got it mounted correctly by now.

Smitty
 
Tim,
How is that "Be Cool" radiator still working for you? Assuming you got it mounted correctly by now.

Smitty

Yeah the Cold Case radiator from the Power Tour is still in place. I had a local metal shop remove all the brackets it came with and then welded some L brackets to both the MP FMIC and the radiator. Also they weld a piece of aluminum to the top of the FMIC since it had all sort of blemishes from being used. After that I sanded out all the casts and polished it out to match the rest of the engine bay.

As for how it works, I wired the switch we purchased on the power tour up to the OE pusher fan (you can see the switch by the battery as I haven't finished that install and it was for testing purposes at the time of). Car now runs extremely cool! With fan running it usually doesn't come off the N or NORM.


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Amazing how the MPIC problems go away with a decent radiator. We all assumed it was the design. :confused: My car still running good. I do want to test 100 degree days with the A/C but we will see.
 
Amazing how the MPIC problems go away with a decent radiator. We all assumed it was the design. :confused: My car still running good. I do want to test 100 degree days with the A/C but we will see.

Yeah it's nice to have the coolant running cooler temps - however I can see why the MP FMIC failed as an aftermarket product. From the cost stand point it's comical and given the trial and errors everyone has had, I'm not sure it could be called a "true-bolt on" product. I'm married to it at this point unless I want to basically give it away and throw more money into the SC Burn barrel.

I purchased the MP kit used for $600 - retail I believe was twice that new.
Radiator setup after all the fabbing etc is $400ish
Spal Fan - $150

$1150 for a FMIC (not even considering costs of chroming) ...most fab on their own for a fraction of the cost, and most likely far more efficient.

-Tim
 
Yeah it's nice to have the coolant running cooler temps - however I can see why the MP FMIC failed as an aftermarket product. From the cost stand point it's comical and given the trial and errors everyone has had, I'm not sure it could be called a "true-bolt on" product. I'm married to it at this point unless I want to basically give it away and throw more money into the SC Burn barrel.

I purchased the MP kit used for $600 - retail I believe was twice that new.
Radiator setup after all the fabbing etc is $400ish
Spal Fan - $150

$1150 for a FMIC (not even considering costs of chroming) ...most fab on their own for a fraction of the cost, and most likely far more efficient.

-Tim

It was expensive but it’s crux was selling it without a matching radiator, and relying on the consumer to put on their scaled up, swelled up tubes or stock radiator. I could not figure out why on some cars it kept things cool but on some others it didn’t. Another issue was the fact that a griffin radiator is so expensive, a cheaper alternative needed to be added to make it work well and not have to be a 2000 dollar investment.

By far the kit offers the best looking IC routing. The bends etc are straight and it doesn’t look like a weekend project. IMO I am bias I have two of these. I wish I had tried a good radiator when I was having problems instead of blaming the design.
 
Yeah the Cold Case radiator from the Power Tour is still in place. I had a local metal shop remove all the brackets it came with and then welded some L brackets to both the MP FMIC and the radiator. Also they weld a piece of aluminum to the top of the FMIC since it had all sort of blemishes from being used. After that I sanded out all the casts and polished it out to match the rest of the engine bay.

As for how it works, I wired the switch we purchased on the power tour up to the OE pusher fan (you can see the switch by the battery as I haven't finished that install and it was for testing purposes at the time of). Car now runs extremely cool! With fan running it usually doesn't come off the N or NORM.


View attachment 69675

Wow ! Looks great Tim !
 
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