The car looks great Tim. Sorry I missed it on the Tour. Engine compartment is way too sparkly though And I love the wheels!
I pulled the front bumper on my Redbird to paint it. Wasn't too bad except the five steel core rivet fasteners underneath. I used a Dremel reciprocating cutter to remove them and nuts and bolts to replace them. What did you do, Tim?
I pulled the front bumper on my Redbird to paint it. Wasn't too bad except the five steel core rivet fasteners underneath. I used a Dremel reciprocating cutter to remove them and nuts and bolts to replace them. What did you do, Tim?
For the rivets on the black air damn piece underneath the rivets I cut off with a pair of dikes and then it was reinstalled w the OEM type crush aluminum rivets.
-Tim
Tim,
How is that "Be Cool" radiator still working for you? Assuming you got it mounted correctly by now.
Smitty
Amazing how the MPIC problems go away with a decent radiator. We all assumed it was the design. My car still running good. I do want to test 100 degree days with the A/C but we will see.
Yeah it's nice to have the coolant running cooler temps - however I can see why the MP FMIC failed as an aftermarket product. From the cost stand point it's comical and given the trial and errors everyone has had, I'm not sure it could be called a "true-bolt on" product. I'm married to it at this point unless I want to basically give it away and throw more money into the SC Burn barrel.
I purchased the MP kit used for $600 - retail I believe was twice that new.
Radiator setup after all the fabbing etc is $400ish
Spal Fan - $150
$1150 for a FMIC (not even considering costs of chroming) ...most fab on their own for a fraction of the cost, and most likely far more efficient.
-Tim
Yeah the Cold Case radiator from the Power Tour is still in place. I had a local metal shop remove all the brackets it came with and then welded some L brackets to both the MP FMIC and the radiator. Also they weld a piece of aluminum to the top of the FMIC since it had all sort of blemishes from being used. After that I sanded out all the casts and polished it out to match the rest of the engine bay.
As for how it works, I wired the switch we purchased on the power tour up to the OE pusher fan (you can see the switch by the battery as I haven't finished that install and it was for testing purposes at the time of). Car now runs extremely cool! With fan running it usually doesn't come off the N or NORM.
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