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Thread: Brake Actuator Rebuild

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Hamburg, PA
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    50
    So I finally got around to swapping out the old ARC pressure switch yesterday, had it done in 10 minutes. Checked the brake fluid, and took it for a ride. When I turned the car on, "Firm Ride" stayed on, and remained on. Cycled the switch, no change. Did a 60-0 stop, and right as soon as I hit 0, the light went out; comes back on after about a second. I am able to repeat this too. The only thing I can think of is that the switch is backwards internally, and is causing the system to work opposite from what it's supposed to. The connector on the car was clean, and snapped right on. I emailed Bill at SCP to see if he's heard this before, and he was unaware of any switches with problems. Other than this, the car's brakes are working normally. Any thoughts?
    Last edited by 92SCtk; 06-25-2017 at 07:40 AM.
    1992 SC - 5 Speed, Black, Stock
    1991 SC - Auto, Black, Currently Stock

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Dallas, TX
    Posts
    5,648
    Unplug it and drive around normal for a while. Firm ride should stay off. Try switching the console switch back and forth and see it if otherwise does what it should do. If thats all OK, try cleaning the inside of connector with brake cleaner to clear out any brake fluid that may have built up from the old switch. Reconnect and drive around some. Firm solid braking should make the ARC switch to firm. Panic stops are not needed.
    Thats about all I can suggest for now.
    Last edited by TbirdSCFan; 06-25-2017 at 08:02 AM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Hamburg, PA
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    50
    Quote Originally Posted by TbirdSCFan View Post
    Unplug it and drive around normal for a while. Firm ride should stay off. Try switching the console switch back and forth and see it if otherwise does what it should do. If thats all OK, try cleaning the inside of connector with brake cleaner to clear out any brake fluid that may have built up from the old switch. Reconnect and drive around some. Firm solid braking should make the ARC switch to firm. Panic stops are not needed.
    Thats about all I can suggest for now.
    Yeah I'm actually on my wait out now to drive it for today's errands (too nice of a day not to). Unplugging it was one of the thoughts I had last night so I'm gonna try it.
    1992 SC - 5 Speed, Black, Stock
    1991 SC - Auto, Black, Currently Stock

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
    Posts
    6,335
    Quote Originally Posted by 92SCtk View Post
    The only thing I can think of is that the switch is backwards internally, and is causing the system to work opposite from what it's supposed to.
    As with any basic switch, testing with an ohm meter will tell you. Remove the connector, set the ohms Ω scale to the lowest number and probe the two metal tangs inside - an open circuit with the switch off/not under pressure will read the same as if your test probes aren't even connected. A closed switch, under pressure that would be 'on' and light the ARC dash light, would read some resistance and be same or close to the reading as when the test probes were touched together.

    It should not be closed when the engine isn't running. Check the old one off the car to confirm. They should both test the same.

    Might want to remove the connecter, let it hang for a bit, then fire the car up and test - if the new switch is the culprit, the light should stay out. Hit the pedal hard/full to test otherwise.

    Does the new switch look the same as the old one?
    Last edited by KMT; 06-26-2017 at 10:30 AM. Reason: added Ω symbol

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Hamburg, PA
    Posts
    50
    Yeah, unfortunately an ohm meter isn't something in my toolbox yet. Working on my cars (beyond changing oil) is somewhat brand new to me since I'm out of college and done with football/coaching (for now, i.e. no kids). I've used them in college, but never got one of my own. Rather than make my running car a non-running car, I'm actually going to be using my old 5.0 Mountaineer as a teacher, and get it running again (and possibly to be a donor down the road ). Best way to learn is to do it, and thankfully I have something that I don't need to rely on if it takes me a little bit.

    As far as the switch goes, drove it all day yesterday unplugged. ARC worked normally, both in Auto and Firm Ride. Going to try to get a meter by this weekend, and test it.
    1992 SC - 5 Speed, Black, Stock
    1991 SC - Auto, Black, Currently Stock

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Salem, OR
    Posts
    6,335
    Quote Originally Posted by 92SCtk View Post
    As far as the switch goes, drove it all day yesterday unplugged. ARC worked normally, both in Auto and Firm Ride. Going to try to get a meter by this weekend, and test it.
    Seems odd a new switch would do that, but there you go. Outside of temporarily installing the old switch, not sure I'd test more Did the old and new parts match up in appearance?

    Harbor Freight has a decent cheap digital volt meter they occasionally give away with a purchase, BTW.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Hamburg, PA
    Posts
    50
    Did the old and new parts match up in appearance?

    Sorry I forgot to answer you from the first time. Yes, they were identical.
    1992 SC - 5 Speed, Black, Stock
    1991 SC - Auto, Black, Currently Stock

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